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Discussion Starter #1
So went to test my alternator at autozone thinking it was battery great from research I know this can be pretty expensive.

So I was thinking could I upgrade to the gxp alternator part # 92193199 only reason because I'm currently running one 10 inch sub 2 amps and want the generate sufficient powe without putting a strain on car.

On a side note would also putting on the slp camaro v6 pulley be a bad idea for this car.
 

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I'm running the same a 10 inch sub and 2 amps on the stock alternator and mine seem to work fine. Not too sure what that gxp alternator would do to help. You could have the original alternator beefed up at a shop.
 

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Mine was acting up in December. I thought it might be battery. Turned out to be the alternator. Was able to get a new one on Rockauto, since the other local auto parts stores couldn't get it....and Stealership wanted over $400 for it.

Think I paid about $250 for the new one.
 

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^^^^ That's the way I see it (looking at GM source for Alternators) V6 >>> 92173959 for about $235 GT >>> 92191127 for about $233 GXP >>> 92193199 for about $257. So you have to stick with the OEM V6 P/N due to attaching design.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
V6 Alternator.
Mounting Bolts run at right angles to the shaft.



V8 Alternator
Mounting Bolts run parallel to the shaft.


That is some good info, thanks.

So my other question is there a beefed up version of a v6 alternator out here perhaps camaro v6,if the v8 is out of the question.

Only want to know because I know if I get a pulley and shorter belt I read a story from a forum member I forget his name from a while back that his alternator burnt out from the current set up. Just don't want that same issue.
 

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Hate to bring up an old topic but do any of y'all know how to remove the alternator cause mine went bad and I'm hoping I don't have to remove the whole bracket like it shows in the picture above! Thanks in advance
 

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^^^^ You *do not* remove the Alternator bracket. After disconnecting the battery followed by the Alternator wiring itself, it says to remove the *3* nuts from the *3* studs that the Alternator is supported on. Then remove those *3* studs. Then remove the Alternator from the car. I suspect that the 3 studs have to be removed to produce the needed clearance for removal. The drawing does seem to show that those 3 studs have a small hex on the end of the stud, to allow for removal with a small socket or wrench. The interesting wording (in the manual) says that both the studs and nuts are to be torqued to 13 ft lbs. If that's the way the factory torqued them, the nuts might end up rotating the studs (from the bracket) vs the nuts by themselves (hence, the small hex on the end of the studs).
 
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