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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had to jump my G8 recently and now I discovered the power windows don't work. In the owners manual it says the F24 fuses under the hood is for them but there's no fuse in that numbered slot or a number of other ones in there. So, is it the B2 circuit breaker that went south or what?
 

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The main relay would be RAP relay R1, and 2A fuse--- F24 both in the i/o fuse box by drivers left foot. Also remember either rap2 and/or 3 relay is also connected to R1 so either of those might be bad.

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Are the power door locks via the center console switch inoperative as well? When you jumped the G8 did you connect both the positive and negative booster cable ends to the dead battery? If so, it's better and safer to place the positive cable end on the positive battery post. Then, place the negative cable end on a solid, unpainted metal surface. For many vehicles, this will be the strut tower bolt/nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are the power door locks via the center console switch inoperative as well?
I'll have to double check in the morning but I think they were working. If so, does that tell you anything?
 

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Rules out the entire switch going kaput and isolates the problem to the power window circuitry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the diagram. None of the windows were responding. How likely is it that the B2 circuit breaker would have gone bad? I'll try replacing the F24 fuse first.
Also, assuming for the moment that it is a bad F24 2A fuse, could I at least temporarily put a 3A in it's place until I get a 2A?
 

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Could use a higher amperage fuse and people do such regularly, but don't recommend. Instead, try to locate another item (if applicable) utilizing a 2amp fuse and (if possible) use it in the meantime. There are spare fuses in at least one of the three fuse blocks and perchance General Motors incuded an extra 2 amp.
 

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...How likely is it that the B2 circuit breaker would have gone bad? I'll try replacing the F24 fuse first.
The circuit breaker is 20 amps. The fuse is 2 amps. The fuse should blow before the breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The circuit breaker is 20 amps. The fuse is 2 amps. The fuse should blow before the breaker.
Is there a way to tell if a circuit breaker is blown? With the small fuses like 2A, etc., you can just look thru the plastic and see if the metal arc is blown or not. I pulled the B2 breaker and it's just a solid black plastic.
 

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Can test a circuit breaker via a multi-meter or equivalent. Is there another 20 amp circuit breaker the B2 can be swapped with?
 

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See if your aux power outlets work with ignition on ? If they work, you'll know that the RAP 1 (retained accessory power) relay as well as the RAP R7 relay an window motor power B2 20 A circuit breaker are OK "an not" the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
See if your aux power outlets work with ignition on ? If they work, you'll know that the RAP 1 (retained accessory power) relay as well as the RAP R7 relay an window motor power B2 20 A circuit breaker are OK "an not" the problem.
OK, I'll go check. This is driving me crazy already. I replaced the F24 2A fuse (power window) and the windows still are responding to the controls in the center console so that apparently isn't the problem. Also, BTW, the remote door lock/unlock switches on the console are working. Does that help narrow down the culprit? Thanks for all the replies/advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK guys, I plugged two different radar detectors into the power outlets under the radio and the one in the center console storage and they didn't light up. Everything else seems to work, power seats, remote mirror control, turn signals, etc. Does all this point to one probable problem child?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
HELP!!! Now I'm more confused than ever. I noticed that the B1 (power seats) and B2 (power windows) were both 20A so I took out the B2 and replaced it with the B1 and the front right window whose button I was pressing worked, the window wound down about three inches and... STOPPED!!! WTF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
HELP!!! Now I'm more confused than ever. I noticed that the B1 (power seats) and B2 (power windows) were both 20A so I took out the B2 and replaced it with the B1 and the front right window whose button I was pressing worked, the window wound down about three inches and... STOPPED!!! WTF?
I'm just grabbing at straws here... Electric circuits are my weakest area with cars. IF the R1 relay was bad wouldn't most everything not work? The F24 2A fuse is good. Like I said above, when I switched B1 CB with B2 the windows worked for a few seconds, then not. So... what does all that point to? Is it likely the RAP R7 relay, window motor power?
 

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Are any of the other windows working? Was the F24 fuse blown? If you have the driver's door open, make sure the key is in the ignition and turned to accessory or on. Removing the key or turning the ignition to lock/off along with opening the driver's door automatically disables rap (retained access power).
 

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..and the windows still are responding to the controls in the center console so that apparently isn't the problem. Also, BTW, the remote door lock/unlock switches on the console are working. Does that help narrow down the culprit? Thanks for all the replies/advice.
Are or are not responding? The working door lock switches lessens the likelihood of damage occurring to the power window/door lock switch, but does not eliminate the possibility altogether.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Are or are not responding? The working door lock switches lessens the likelihood of damage occurring to the power window/door lock switch, but does not eliminate the possibility altogether.
So sorry, NO, the window controls were NOT responding and the F24 was not blown. And no, none of the windows are working. What do you think about my GUESS concerning the RAP R7???
 
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