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Try swapping relay R1 (retain accessory power 1) with relay R9 (blower) and see if the climate control blower works. Next, see if the either of the auxiliary power outlets function with the ignition key turned to on perchance accessory as well. If not, then swap R9 (blower) with R7 (retain accessory power 2) and see if the blower motor still works.
 

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The R1 relay "only" powers up the widows an the R7 RAP relay. The R7 relay only powers up the aux outlets. the B2 CB an F24 fuse receive their power "after passing thru the R1 relay. That B2 CB powers up the window motors an supplies the power to energise the R7 relay. If that B2 CB (is working correctly) it will self trip "if over heated" an self reset in abot 2 seconds after cooling down. "IF" you still have that desire to zero in on the problem area, you can try these things >>>>. To eliminate a possible internal short of the R7 RAP relay, disconnect it. Then see if the windows will work correctly. IF NO JOY, reconnect the R7 relay an disconnect the window an door lock module assemblies 2 connectors an see if the aux outlets work correctly. Based on the results, we can move on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks, I REALLY appreciate everyones input; I'll try all suggestions. GOPHERIT, what fuses/relays/CB's are you referring to here: disconnect the window and door lock module assemblies 2 connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·

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The window
... an disconnect the window an door lock module assemblies 2 connectors an see if the aux outlets work correctly...
Disconnect the center console power window and door lock switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The window
Disconnect the center console power window and door lock switch.
I disconnected the R7 and no dice, windows and auxillary power outlets don't work. Everything else does (door locks, remote mirrors, etc). How do I disconnect the center console power window and door lock switch?
 

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I disconnected the R7 and no dice, windows and auxillary power outlets don't work...
Did you try swapping (exchange slots) the R1 with the R9 relay first?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Did you try swapping (exchange slots) the R1 with the R9 relay first?
Not yet, that's my next thing to try. FWIW, I put the B3 cb for the power seats that I had had in the slot for the B2 power windows back in its slot and the power seats work so that cb is good. I lost the B3 cb due to my fat fingers fumbling it and it fell down into the well of darkness beneath all the fuses, etc., so I know I need to buy a new one of those eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Not yet, that's my next thing to try. FWIW, I put the B3 cb for the power seats that I had had in the slot for the B2 power windows back in its slot and the power seats work so that cb is good. I lost the B3 cb due to my fat fingers fumbling it and it fell down into the well of darkness beneath all the fuses, etc., so I know I need to buy a new one of those eventually.
Also, is R4 really a spare? The owners manual chart says it is. It also says R10 is but that slot is empty.
 

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Also, is R4 really a spare? The owners manual chart says it is. It also says R10 is but that slot is empty.
They're spare (empty) slots.
 

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... I lost the B3 cb due to my fat fingers fumbling it and it fell down into the well of darkness beneath all the fuses, etc., so I know I need to buy a new one of those eventually.
May be able to remove the trim piece and locate the circuit breaker. Otherwise, they should be readily available at a local parts store or the stealership.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Did you try swapping (exchange slots) the R1 with the R9 relay first?
Please bear with me, I forget what doing this may prove.
 

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Did you see Gopherit's post #22? R1 powers R7. R7 is for the auxiliary ports which are not working. The diagnosing process is much easier using a circuit tester, multi-meter, etc. Exchange R1 with a functioning relay R9 in order to verify R1 is working.
 

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The way your posting, I have come to the conclusion that both the fuse an CB have always been, and continue to be good. That pretty much narrows it down to a faulty R1 rap relay, in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The way your posting, I have come to the conclusion that both the fuse an CB have always been, and continue to be good. That pretty much narrows it down to a faulty R1 rap relay, in my opinion.
Thanks very much to you both. In the morning I will place a relay known to be good (R9 likely) in the R1 slot and see what happens. Fingers crossed. I've had this car for about six years w/o a lick of trouble so this has been a weird experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
One last quick question... are all the relays in the instrument panel fuse box, R1-R11, the same kind; can any one be interchanged with another?
 

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If I recall correctly, either all or most of them are the same. There should be at least a few of the relays that are alike and easily identifiable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The way your posting, I have come to the conclusion that both the fuse an CB have always been, and continue to be good. That pretty much narrows it down to a faulty R1 rap relay, in my opinion.
SUCCESS (mostly)!!! You were correct, it was the R1. I put the R9 in its place and the power windows WORK!!! But... does anyone know how to take off the kick panel that covers the interior fuse box? In all my blind maneuvers in there my fat fingers managed to drop one relay and on circuit breaker down into the dark area below all the fuses, etc. I need to retrieve them to put them back into the proper slots so that I can also have power seats and trunk release. BTW, thanks again for all the help you both have given!
 
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