could you send me info on how and where to wire this. i have an idea to use some benz steering wheel mounted paddle shifters. they have 2 wires coming off of each paddle, they look to opperate like a momentary push button. if i figured a way to get this wiring throught the steering wheel cog, do you think this could work.
i figure you could probably combine the 4 wires down to 3, using 2 of the wires combined as a ground, then 1 wire from each switch as completing the circuit.
my advantage is, i have an aftermarket radio and the radio controls on the steering wheel are useless to me, so thats probably an extra 5 or 6 conductors right there i could use... as long as i trace the wires with my multimeter and use the right ones...
Have to dig into the shifter assembly to get to the wires. I googled shifter removal and followed those instructions.
once in there, 3 wires supply the "sport" and "manual" circuit board, green, blue and black. black is ground, then 1 of the other 2 are 14.4 volts from an ignition source and the 3rd wire supplies the signal to the BCM. Kept meaning to write down the color codes but I've forgotten which is which.... sorry. If you test for voltage with the molex connector unplugged you can figure which is which.
order of operations are as follows, the BCM receives a voltage from the shifter assembly, then relays a command to the TCM/ECM. 0 volts = normal mode, 7 volts constant = sport mode, 4.1 volts = upshift, 2.1 volts = downshift. might have up and down switched but you get the idea. See the picture of the voltage splitter circuit here.
Basically, you build the circuit and insert it in between the shifter circuit board and the BCM. doing it this way maintains full functionality of the TUTD and paddle shifters.
And yes, this would work with wheel mounted paddles provided you have 3 conductors into the steering wheel. Might be able to make it work with as few as 1 conductor, by building the entire circuit and steeling power and ground from inside the wheel. but things get complicated if you try to maintain full functionality of the stock shifter this way.
Another fella on this board used Corvette paddles. He even got so far as mounting them in the wheel, but I don't think anyone had figured out the circuit until now.
anyway, please share if you succeed!! I may just try your way.
thanks, i have basic electrical knowledge but im kinda scared to build my own circuit and make it insert voltage into the BCM. i would much rather just buy one i knew works. problem is nobody makes this.. haha. im good at all the wiring stuff, im sure i could get everything mounted and wired no problem, just would like to beable to plug the wires from the paddles directly into the module that makes it all work, but i know its not that easy, unless i buy the circuit from you. i just have no idea what im doing. i do understand you are using resistors to throttle down the power to output the power needed for a down shift or upshift.
also what would put the car in manual mode, would you have to use the shifter or could you simply tap an up or down shift paddle and it would set the car automatically in manual mode?
the way I have it, in order to go into manual you have to put the stock shifter into sport. then either tap the shifter or tap either paddle. the paddles get there voltage supply once the stock shifter is into the "sport" gate. I like it best this way because there is no chance of sending the wrong signal and frying the BCM. Or shifting to reverse or park while still in "sport/manual" mode.
This certainly hasn't been an "easy" project, I have hours into cutting and grinding and testing trying to come up with an elegant set of solutions. The quest continues.....
yes, that makes much more sense, i thought about it while driving today too.
this sounds great, im going to call up the guys selling the paddles and make sure they are momentary N.O. switches. which would mean they are only completing the circuit when the paddle is pressed correct?
from what i have seen looking around these amg paddles seem to be the best option, they are somewhat "univeral" in design. they should be able to mount to most steering wheels without much trouble. and if they are momentary N.O. then that makes them great for this project.
im not. personally i just think that is too much work, sure i would rather have them in the same spot regardless of wheel position, but IMO a good functioning set of those would be a ton of work and or a ton of money.
I still prefer column mounted, but making them pretty and semi-stockish looking is proving to be very tough for me. I wonder if there is a way to mount a button or switch on that Hurst product for the new camaros. The way I understand, it's just a lever that activates the existing wheel mounted buttons.... but if it could be mounted different and used to activate a custom set of buttons or switches. I've been keeping my eye on the used market.
Part of the problem is no room, part of the problem is no integral unit column mounts to start with. I've got a few different bracket styles mocked up but I don't have a full tool shop. Hoping someone out there reads this and maybe has seen/thought of something I hadn't and the light bulb go's off above my head....
The good news is, the circuit would work regardless of wheel or column mounting. Bad news, gotta find extra conductors in the clockspring to go with wheel mounts. Perfect for Mathewo because his wheel buttons go unused = extra conductors in clockspring. I like my buttons Anyone have a wiring diagram of the clockspring?
On a positive note, it's awful fun to drive with paddles! ALMOST, well as close as possible, gives me the sense of driving a manual...... Excited to try it on road course next month.
Ok, im hooked. I was at the chevy dealer today and saw the buttons on the back of the SS steering wheel. I even went as far as to ask the parts guy how much just the button are. ($25 each) I understand the clockspring issue, has anyone actually taken the wheel apart to check for unused spots? I for one would not mind disabling the onstar at all if it meant i got the paddles to work.
Prrii- would simply paralleling the factory switches in the shifter work? i see you added resistors in your circuit to reduce the voltage to the desired amount, maybe we could simply piggy back what is already in the shifter? I am super interested! lets figure this out!
Ps. I am no electronics expert, but i am an electrician. I dont see why this should be too crazy difficult. Prrii already did the hard part. Thanks a ton!
I called the dealer back and got the part number for the paddle shifters on the 2012 camaro. I was originally thinking the button style (2011) would be easier to mount (still do) but this is the part number he gave me for the 2012.
I am interested in what the circuit board inside does??? Its obviously not just a N.O. switch.
The 2011 comes with a button instead of the paddle. In my opinion the button style would be a much easier retrofit. It is number 18 in the pic.
You can't just grab the switch on either end of the lever when its in Manual mode. IE the + and -. are those switches in the console - or in the transmission.
That might be why the camaro has a different transmission computer card?
Also if all you need is a switch and a lever as has been mentioned twice - grab some off a cheap PC gamer wheel. The logitech wheels all have paddle shifters.
Matt: One problem you are going to have is that you don't have any more circuit paths on the steering wheel reloctor ring. So you would have to wire a loop of with enough slack to handle 3 turns of the wheel in both directions. Personally i don't see it working out but I do wish you luck. As always if you get it to work well I will easily eat my words.
The only way to piggy back whats in the shifter would be to dissect the PCB and soldier in after the factory resistors. I think an outboard set of resistors is much easier. The factory switches use hall effect sensors to activate different voltage pulses. It's all on 1 circuit board. 1 wire in, 1 wire out (and a ground) provides signals for sport mode, upshift and downshift.
I do piggy back in one sense. The stock shifter has to be in "sport" mode before my paddles will work. But my PCB is in series with the stock PCB. So regardless of where the up/down shift signal comes from, the BCM responds. Kind of tough to explain in type.
I wouldn't mind wheel mounted. I'd even give up on star controls. To keep things simple, you need 3 conductors (maybe 2 if the ground is common.) I know my circuit works with any Normally Open momentary switch. Those switches can come in any form and be mounted any where (provided you can get wires to them) My hang up is coming up with something that will look factory and professional.
Really, the whole thing could be done with out cutting any factory wires. I would need to source the MOLEX connectors that are under the stock shifter, 1 male and 1 female. And the little pin things that terminate the wires. I've never played with those, but I know it can be done. As it is now, I splice into the signal wire from the stock shifter to the BCM and the ground wire.
I get what you are saying about the hall effect switches. I agree that it sounds easier to build a simple bread board with the resistors in it and stash it somewhere in the console. I like the fact that you made your system work only when in sport mode. Sounds safer that way.
One thing i am unclear of. In your drawing of how you wired the switches and resistors, i am confused on the "star" shapes, is the a splice? Thanks again for your knowledge. This is going to be awesome when it is all worked out.
Have you changed you paddles in any way since the last picture? Visually?
yeah the stars are "cut and connect" symbols. pretty rough sketch
No, I haven't had any time to play with them. Looking exactly the same as they do in the above pictures. Still fully functional though, I use them quite often. I'm hoping your idea ends up looking pro.
Let me know if you need any help when it comes time to wire it.