Question: Subwoofer with plug in for RJ-11 Cable

Benjii43 · 2023-03-28

Howdy Stereo Experts, When i was testing the G8 that i eventually bought, there was a subwoofer in the trunk with an adjustment bass knob beneath the hood latch. I think prior to the owner finally selling it to me, i think that the sub was taken out. I cant really blame them, it was their sub. But now, i am trying to figure out what sub I can get that has the same plug-ins. The image is attached to the cables. I am no speaker expert, but after doing some quick searching the telephone cable is a RJ-11 (which attaches to the bass adjustment knob). The other two plug ins, i would assume, are input and output. Is there a Sub that has the plug-ins, and does it need its own power source? There is already the amp that is plugged in and works with the rest of the speakers. It just has no sub. TIA.

J

J Wikoff

· #2 · 2 mo ago

Is there a brand on the subwoofer knob? Many sub knobs use those phone cables, but the range of the potentiometer inside might not match from one brand to the next. I've attempted to use the knob from a Pioneer amp with an Infinity amp and it was a no go.

The loose rca cables I see are probably a left and right channel for input to a monoblock amplifier. A lot of subwoofer amps combine two channels into signal for one subwoofer. The sub amp will need a power, ground, signal input, and maybe a remote-on signal lead (some have an auto-on feature and don't need the remote on signal).

2009 SRM GT - Premium, Sport, Sunroof - HSV triple gauges, trim, Supersport Red steering wheel, Red Hot shift knob, GXP rear sway bar & diffuser, Rotofab, SOLO axlebacks, Magnaflow cats & x-pipe mid-muff, PPV/Tein suspension, Polylast strut mounts, Camaro rear shock mounts & 1LE LCAs, Z28 trailing and toe links, BMR cradle inserts, Mevotech Supreme LCAs, Energy poly sway bar bushings, Moog endlinks, Autodim mirror, Chrome lug covers, Alpine Halo 9" Touchscreen & Sports HVAC dash kit, Infinity & Polk door speakers, 10" Alpine Type R, MTX ReQ5, Kappa One 6 amp, Switchbacks, LED headlights, Spyder taillights, Slotted rotors, Bendix Ceramic Copper Free pads & Braided stainless hoses, Cortex tuner, Glovebox light, Bremmerkraft BM12/Goodyear Ultragrip Ice WRT winter setup, Corvette Onstar/Bluetooth (pre-Kayhan), Damplifier Second Skin back wall/floor/shelf, G8Only fuel pump access, Xpel headlight film, SS weatherstrips, Weathertechs

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Benjii43

Discussion Starter · #3 · 2 mo ago

J Wikoff said:
Is there a brand on the subwoofer knob? Many sub knobs use those phone cables, but the range of the potentiometer inside might not match from one brand to the next. I've attempted to use the knob from a Pioneer amp with an Infinity amp and it was a no go.

The loose rca cables I see are probably a left and right channel for input to a monoblock amplifier. A lot of subwoofer amps combine two channels into signal for one subwoofer. The sub amp will need a power, ground, signal input, and maybe a remote-on signal lead (some have an auto-on feature and don't need the remote on signal).

The brand is "deaf bonce", same as the one on the amplifier as seen in the picture. Problem that i am having now is finding the sub that has those connections. Will keep searching. Thanks for the idea. Didn't think about that.

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J Wikoff

· #4 · 2 mo ago

A typical passive sub just has a + and - input from the amp. Any "sub" that needs power, ground, signal, remote on, is a powered subwoofer (has an amp already attached), but either case, you'll still need to get it power, ground, audio signal and maybe remote on. Most amps have rca input jacks, which you already have there. I wouldn't fuss too much about trying to match the amp to the knob cable. If an amp is compatible with a knob, it'll come with it or be available as an extra.

Get any sub you like, a box to put it in, and an amp. I'd suggest 400-600 watts rms. Again, all the connections will be the same, regardless, or easy to accommodate.

2009 SRM GT - Premium, Sport, Sunroof - HSV triple gauges, trim, Supersport Red steering wheel, Red Hot shift knob, GXP rear sway bar & diffuser, Rotofab, SOLO axlebacks, Magnaflow cats & x-pipe mid-muff, PPV/Tein suspension, Polylast strut mounts, Camaro rear shock mounts & 1LE LCAs, Z28 trailing and toe links, BMR cradle inserts, Mevotech Supreme LCAs, Energy poly sway bar bushings, Moog endlinks, Autodim mirror, Chrome lug covers, Alpine Halo 9" Touchscreen & Sports HVAC dash kit, Infinity & Polk door speakers, 10" Alpine Type R, MTX ReQ5, Kappa One 6 amp, Switchbacks, LED headlights, Spyder taillights, Slotted rotors, Bendix Ceramic Copper Free pads & Braided stainless hoses, Cortex tuner, Glovebox light, Bremmerkraft BM12/Goodyear Ultragrip Ice WRT winter setup, Corvette Onstar/Bluetooth (pre-Kayhan), Damplifier Second Skin back wall/floor/shelf, G8Only fuel pump access, Xpel headlight film, SS weatherstrips, Weathertechs

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Benjii43

Discussion Starter · #5 · 2 mo ago

J Wikoff said:
A typical passive sub just has a + and - input from the amp. Any "sub" that needs power, ground, signal, remote on, is a powered subwoofer (has an amp already attached), but either case, you'll still need to get it power, ground, audio signal and maybe remote on. Most amps have rca input jacks, which you already have there. I wouldn't fuss too much about trying to match the amp to the knob cable. If an amp is compatible with a knob, it'll come with it or be available as an extra.

Get any sub you like, a box to put it in, and an amp. I'd suggest 400-600 watts rms. Again, all the connections will be the same, regardless, or easy to accommodate.

I appreciate the advice. Makes things a lot easier knowing i can just grab a sub (with a bass adjuster) and install. I just need to uninstall the other equipment. Thanks for the help.

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