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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Like the subject says, my upper radiator hose popped off due to the plastic radiator lip breaking off that so many people have experienced. This happened on my way home, only about a mile away. The car started to overheat and I made it home just as the car put itself into safety mode and switched to low power. I have a new radiator on order (Cold Case all aluminum). I got the hose temporarily reconnected using two clamps. But now the DIC is saying that I need to service the engine oil. When I go into Engineering Mode the oil life says 0%. Is this a problem? Will it fix itself or do I need to change the oil, or hopefully not, the oil sensor? :(

Oh, I also changed the thermostat before I saw the top hose was disconnected.
 

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Just a guess >>> Maybe the logic within the BCM and/or ECM is designed to trigger the OLM to drop to 0%, if the engine experiences an engine over temp coolant condition like you had. Maybe from an engineering point of view, they feel that some level of oil breakdown has taken place when this happens. If that is so, that message would then remind you to get that oil out, an put in a fresh supply as part of correcting the coolant over temp condition. Due you have any idea what the approximate OLM % remaining *was* when this happened ? If you feel confident that the oil is OK, just perform a reset of the OLM circuit (keeping in mind, the approximate miles you have already accumulated on the current oil change).




OLM remaining % is a function of start/run cycles, along with RPM patterns an mileage driven. Sensors are the oil pressure, an in the oil pan, an oil level sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oil was just changed <1000 miles ago...

OK.. I didn't know that it wasn't done via a sensor.. maybe sensing the viscosity, or particles in the oil. That, at least, does put me at ease. Thanks.
 

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This just happened to me too, but I wasn't sure the two were related. I took the G8 to the track (Cleetus & Cars in Houston) where the upper radiator hose blew off halfway down the drag strip. I brought it home and reattached the hose (nothing broke) and now the Service Oil warning comes up. I can't find my record of the last oil change, but I'm pretty sure it was right before LS Fest in September and I've only put 1,700 miles on the car in the last year. I was thinking I forgot to reset the oil life when I changed it.
 

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Like the subject says, my upper radiator hose popped off due to the plastic radiator lip breaking off that so many people have experienced. This happened on my way home, only about a mile away. The car started to overheat and I made it home just as the car put itself into safety mode and switched to low power. I have a new radiator on order (Cold Case all aluminum). I got the hose temporarily reconnected using two clamps. But now the DIC is saying that I need to service the engine oil. When I go into Engineering Mode the oil life says 0%. Is this a problem? Will it fix itself or do I need to change the oil, or hopefully not, the oil sensor? :(

Oh, I also changed the thermostat before I saw the top hose was disconnected.
Let us know if Cold Case radiator fits. Others have had fitment issues in past. I believe the space between where bottom hose attaches to radiator and vehicle frame. Thanks.
 

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Oil was just changed <1000 miles ago...

OK.. I didn't know that it wasn't done via a sensor.. maybe sensing the viscosity, or particles in the oil. That, at least, does put me at ease. Thanks.
There is no sensor(s) for oil condition. As mentioned, oil life is estimated by time at rpm/temperature, etc. Why the change oil light pops up after a high temp event is not clear but best guess it is programmed in as a precaution.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm pretty sure the cold case issues we're sorted out. They changed the angle of the neck based on old description and new pictures on the site. I'll follow up though.
 

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I would hope by now.... But those issues were not sorted out after they assured folks that it was before I bought one. Of course, I could have gotten an old stock unit. (No guarantee that you won't :D ).

That said, when I went back to them, it quickly became apparent that sending it back wasn't practical. I used washers to shim the posts and lift it up the 1/4" or so that I needed to clear the frame. Problem solved.

The clips for the shroud will need to be addressed up top. In order to get it to clasp into place, I tapped the top square loop bracket to engage the plastic tabs. On the spot for the shroud's feet, I used a material to shim between the bracket and the plastic feet/tabs. Easy/Peasy.

The plastic radiator cap should screw into place, but the fit is tight and you may need to get a new one just in case. I have to press down as I turn it to engage. Then it is a tight turn to thread it. Since the radiator threads are the metal ones, I was not concerned. It holds just fine.

I finished it off with the Blue Silicone hoses. Definitely recommend sleeved hose clamps. I used T-Bolts at first, but they failed and so I used sleeved high torque worm-gear. (Not from Home Depot; don't remember which vendor).

I suspect you could use some light compatible grease to keep the metal clamps from binding, but the sleeves should work well enough to prevent that.

Ditch their drain fitting and install a like size plug. I probably did have to drain it a few too many times, but the seal did not last long at all. It's not really their fault, they don't manufacture those rather common parts.

Once installed, you'll be happy. :)


P.S. This was a couple of years ago (after their fix even)
 
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