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Discussion Starter #1
My V6 has had cooling problems for the past year. Every time I pulled it into the garage it smelt of burning coolant. Have replaced heater core lines, t-stat housing and water pump. Still smelt of burning coolant so down to the dealership this morning only to find out today the drivers side head gasket is leaking and and the other side isn't far behind.
Not news I wanted.
Car has 190KM on it and still runs and looks like a champ.
Am waiting for the dealership to send me an estimate for parts and labor at which time I will decide whether to fix this problem or trade it in and move on to another platform.
C'est la vie....
 

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Hope it's gonna be worth fixing bud. Hate to see yuh have too part with her.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanx Jim. Don't really want to part with her either and the prospect of car payments again really doesn't appeal to me.
 

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I hear that. Fingers crossed!
 

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Chevy SS just went on sale again. 20% off. Now's your chance!!

(I know you're in Canuckistan, so don't know if the sale is up there or not)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No, GM never brought them up here.
Couple of people have imported them but with exchange they're a steep price.
Never say never though....
 

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No, GM never brought them up here.
Couple of people have imported them but with exchange they're a steep price.
Never say never though....
Ahhh right. Forgot they didn't make it there.
 

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Sorry to hear about the mechanical problems, been there done that with my Grand Prix. So I based my decision on 1: I know the car is good because of the work that's already been done. 2: How good will the next car be, will it last 6 months or 6 years? So, unless it needs a lot of other work done besides the gaskets, which would be more cost effective?
Good luck with what ever you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well....
The estimate came in at $2930.88 plus/minus taxes in.
Mechanic will only charge me for actual labor hours not the manual.
There's a $250.00 charge for shop incidentals which could go up or down depending on what he needs/uses.
Price includes changing timing chains, motors open so why not, no labor charged, just parts.
There's also an added estimate on sending heads to a machine shop to check them prior to re-install, if they look excellent when pulled this can be skipped.
Labors discounted by half and some parts will be discounted too as my son works at the GM dealer.
Lotta dough no matter who you are....decisions....
 

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Well....
The estimate came in at $2930.88 plus/minus taxes in.
Mechanic will only charge me for actual labor hours not the manual.
There's a $250.00 charge for shop incidentals which could go up or down depending on what he needs/uses.
Price includes changing timing chains, motors open so why not, no labor charged, just parts.
There's also an added estimate on sending heads to a machine shop to check them prior to re-install, if they look excellent when pulled this can be skipped.
Labors discounted by half and some parts will be discounted too as my son works at the GM dealer.
Lotta dough no matter who you are....decisions....
Wow that is a few bucks that price is discounted in half? The mechanic i use charges 80.00 an hour but when it comes down to a long labor charge it come to 60 something an hour.
 

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A nearly $3,000 repair bill estimate factoring in both parts and labor discounts is still a little much. At that point, it could be more cost effective just to replace the engine and keep the old one for spare parts unless there is a core charge. However, the pros and cons of all viable options should be weighed equally. Has the car ever overheated? Although head gaskets can and do go bad without it ever occurring. Best of luck on whatever decision you reach.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Over the whole time of replacing heat core hoses, t-stat housing and water pump the car has never overheated the only constant has been the car smells of burning coolant when I park it in or outdoors.
Doesn't smell all the time but the majority of times.
Right now I'm thinking of just driving it and keeping an eye on the coolant level and topping it up when necessary as it seem it is leaking out of the block and not into the cylinders.
I can drive my wife's car most days as she only works 1 or 2 days a week.
Get thru the winter as is and and make some decisions in the spring.
In all likely hood will trade the G8 for a newer platform.
Thinking like some here have done, could return in the future with another G8 as a weekend warrior.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
May have caught a break here.
Went in this morning to redo the t-stat housing on the off chance it was not done properly.
Mechanic took off the intake and found coolant pooled in the valley which he concluded meant the o-rings in the upper rad hose/filler neck were leaking therefore coolant was running down the valley to the back of the engine and caused staining on the head gasket and hitting the hot exhaust caused my burning coolant stench.
So swapped out those o-rings to the tune of $25.70.
Fingers crossed this is the actual problem.
Run it and see what happens.
 

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Seems promising. Is the mechanic that discovered the leak the same that originally did the work?
 

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Fingers crossed it works!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Seems promising. Is the mechanic that discovered the leak the same that originally did the work?
No, another guy did the t-stat the first time.
Mechanic today is apparently the dealership "trouble shooter".
What lead him to take off the intake this morning, I have no idea but I'm glad he did.
If the o-rings were the problem all along he just saved me 3 grand plus.
He thoroughly cleaned the engine with de-greaser and cleaner so I start with a clean slate.
Just parked the car in garage, doesn't seem to smell of burnt coolant but you can smell the cleaners being burnt off.
Time will tell.
 

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....Have replaced heater core lines, t-stat housing and water pump... Still smelt of burning coolant so down to the dealership
First technician
...this morning only to find out today the drivers side head gasket is leaking and and the other side isn't far behind.....
Second technician?
...Mechanic today is apparently the dealership "trouble shooter". What lead him to take off the intake this morning, I have no idea but I'm glad he did. If the o-rings were the problem all along he just saved me 3 grand plus...
In this case, presume the third time (person) is the charm. What lead them to replace the thermostat housing and water pump in the first place? Is it possible the o-rings were leaking all this time? Or, were the o-rings simply not replaced at the same time with the thermostat housing?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
In every case the parts replaced were leaking.
I was still getting the burning smell and one of my sons, who was a wrench at the dealership found coolant was leaking down the bell housing which took me back to the dealership.
#2 and #3 visits are the same wrench, the trouble shooter.
Because of the location of the t-stat in the V6 its extremely hard to see up in where its buried but he thought the coolant staining was above the t-stat and on the head gaskets.
In his opinion the gasket was leaking out of the block not into the cylinder because the oil is clean as a whistle.
When the car was shut of there was a vacuum that pulled air into the cooling system which was pressurized it on start up and causing the other parts to fail. To be safe he said to change the t-stat again because it was under warranty.
I was told the t-stat can be changed from under the car or apparently I am guessing from the top which is why he took the intake off and found this pooling of coolant in the valley that he surmised was caused by an o-ring leak at the upper rad hose inlet.
The coolant running down the valley "could" account for the staining on the head gasket which again is a guess on his part but worth a shot.
My son asked why they hadn't put any dye in the engine to track the leak but I'm guessing until the intake was pulled the dye would have have pooled at the head gasket anyway and until the intake was removed the source would have been buried.
That's my long winded history, probably stuff I've missed....anyway, drive it, watch coolant level, hope he's right....
 
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