Yes doable. I did it on jack stands and installed the cradle bushings. Cradle bolts heat and remove by hand. They will bind if using air tools. I rested everything on the dif and a 3 ton jack. A spare small 1.5 ton jack came in handy as second pair of hands.
A lot of folks recommend heat for the subframe bolts, but I would urge you to simply have it ready in case you need it. These bolts are quite hardy, and hand strength should not be sufficient to break them. Heat is a last resort as I've learned.
In fact, it may not be necessary; it wasn't for me. A good 1/2" Drive breaker bar will do the trick. You gotta use some muscle, and when they get stuck you'll find they bind but release (pop) 15 degrees or so at a time. It might take you an honest hour getting them loose.
Calipers and E-Brake lines have to be removed/disconnected as well as the exhaust obviously... Unplug the speed sensor cable(passenger side next to the gas tank). Disconnect the driveshaft using the bolts (not the nuts and bolts. It's better that way. Then remove the bolts.
Three jacks make it easy if you don't have a special jack for the differential to lower it correctly. Two go under the upper cradle bushings, and one on the front of the differential (the body). Once the bolts are out and you attach the jacks in the back as you remove them (first), you'll want to gently lower the subframe. It pays to take the rotors off, but you don't have to. It's a weight thing.
You'll want to tilt it by lowering the back first so you can more easily release the SUPPORTED drive shaft from the differential. There's a dowel pin. It will take some convincing to get the frame to move. Then you simply lower the three jacks in succession.
These are floor jacks, and I recommend big ones if you can borrow them. Watch for the differentials vent snorkel, and then once you get it low enough you can pull it out.
First time takes a while, but putting it back in will take 15 minutes with 2 people. It's a lot easier once you know what you're doing.
Again, supporting the driveshaft is critical.
Removing the cradle bushings is easy enough with a self made press using threaded rod, a plate with a hole in the center helps... washers, and bolts. I used two on the side I was turning to lock them in place. I also used PVC fittings as a sleeve. I forget the size, but you can measure that easily enough once the cradle is out.
The rear ones will pop out. The front ones will rip out leaving the sleeve. You simply use a hack saw to score the plastic in two places about 15 degrees apart. By score, I mean cut enough that you're nearly through, but not all the way. It's a plastic sleeve; after that it'll tap out pretty easily once you score it.
It's a breeze when done right.
Any other bushings are best using a ball joint press (C-Clamp looking thing if you're not sure). The differential is hard to get out of there if you do those, and those sleeves are metal. So if you can't press the metal out, it's a beeotch to remove with a hammer and chisel. You have to be sure to go the right way, too, because it appears to be ever so slightly expanded on one end to prevent it from moving.
Anywhoo, it's not an extremely difficult job, just time consuming and you are best doing the removal and reinstallation with 2 people.
not sure if he was asking about the cradle bushings. but i had to put alot heat and force on the LC arm bolts. and was awkward bolt position. moog makes a replacement set of rear control arm bolts. but it sounds like you just need toe rod or trailing arm.
Those Rear LCA bolts tend to fuse to the sleeve, so heat does help in removing them depending on how bad it is.. Other times heat doesn't work.
I was using an acetylene torch on mine and it wasn't enough. I had to cut them, and the rest is history. Needed two new LCAs... There are few reasons to really remove the LCAs unless you have damage or a serious problem with alignment. Once fused, there's really no adjusting the bolt for camber. That can lead to big time camber wear.
For toe rods and trailing arms, you don't really need to remove the cradle... In fact, you don't have to remove it for any of them when using the right tools.
Now you have to decide to go with an OEM style or an aftermarket. If you think this will ever happen again. Get the upgraded GM one for the 1LE Camaro. That same whack on the curb with an aftermarket tubular one will be way more expensive to repair. OEM ones are made to collapse under an impact like that. Tubular ones could take out the knuckle, subframe, control arms.
Wondering if anyone knows the g8 or camaro wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face... dblaron did a post saying camaro was 3/8 narrower
. But never shared dimension... anyone know? Or can measure? Would be greatly appreciated.. or if someone can contact dblarom and see if he has it ?? Thx...
I installed these today. It's a relatively easy job. Mostly all from above. The rear nut on the driver side is much easier to do if you slide under, it's right there near the front of the wheel well. Greasing is easy if you have a right angle adapter and a flexible lead on your grease gun.
The G8 has 4 lower control arms but this is a how-to for replacing the thinner 2 only.
Here's a pic of my old ones:
- vibration in car when applying the brakes, especially if stop is more aggressive
- vibration when taking long curves at road speed (worse if road is rippled)
G8 Suspension Check & Alignment Tips
To Check the forward most Ball Joint in the Radius Arm
Raise the car, allowing the wheels to hang.
Grab the tire and try to move it front to rear
look/feel for play in the forward ball joint while doing this.
To Check the rear most Ball Joint...
Ok everyone so I know this topic has been discussed multiple times but I can’t pin down my problem. I have the steering wheel shake at anything over 55mph. I have replaced LCA’s, radius arms, struts, strut bushings, end links, inner and outer tie rods, wheel bearings, new rotors with new pads...