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Discussion Starter #1
While I like the Solo Mach Shorty system itself, I'm not sure I'm 100% in love with the sound. Sure, I like loud, but there's a pop to it that's maybe not what I intended.


I'm considering some modifications, such as an x-pipe, but then I was thinking maybe I'd just remove the shorty muffler and add in some resonators after the X-instead.

I just want some recommendations for the resonators.
Something that'll offer a good low tone, but will also retain some obnoxiousness to it. :D

I feel like I could probably leave the shorty in there, add the X, and then the resonators behind it, too.....

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm okay with the DFCO. Gives it some flare when you slow down... :D

Mostly, it sounds a bit too raw. I thought with the mid-muffler I wouldn't hear the lack of pulse overlap so much. It's mostly at idle, and I think it's a little too 70s muscle car like for a G8.

Mostly when you give it throttle (but not WOT) it's a bit harsh like the car has it's own version of smokers cough... Hoarse seems like a comparable term.

WOT is quite nice. Obnoxious is an understatement, but it sounds really good. :D Part Throttle can be iffy. It sounds good, but maybe it isn't quite the right sound that I was seeking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Honestly, I wish I just had a MIG Welder and... well... knew how to weld. No that I couldn't learn..... but the wife would pretty much decide that it's time to buy a gun and shoot me if I got started on yet another car project instead of paying someone else to do it.... :D

That sounds like an interesting plan.

It looks like if I remove the mid muffler and add a crossover with maybe a couple of resonators that I might have an upgrade. I could do it very similar to that. Of course... it would be louder.... maybe not a good idea.. :D
 

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I seriously considered the tritex dual resonator set up. In 3" it's really tight in the G8 tunnel, especially if you want to keep the cross brace - measurements were so tight I would not risk getting two pairs of vibrants and not have them fit. Ultimately, I modified stock mufflers for 3" inlet incorporating QTP oval cutouts. Best of both worlds.
 

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I hear good things about the Magnaflow Tru-X mufflers. And MF tends to be that deeper tone in general. You could try that in place of the Shorty muffler, or even add it to it. I actually have a new one (the shorter version) I never got around to using on my stock midpipe. I'd let it go cheap. :) The one I have is like 14" long. I think the longer version is ~18".
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've got to do some measurements, but a properly welded set of bottle resonators seem like they should fit in there. That said, the shorty muffler barely fits. It actually vibrates against the heat shield at certain frequencies. That can be adjusted, but it is annoying.

There are 5" bodied pieces that I'm quite sure won't fit, but a 4" body should be okay I think... (Maybe that's more hope....)
 

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I've got to do some measurements, but a properly welded set of bottle resonators seem like they should fit in there. That said, the shorty muffler barely fits. It actually vibrates against the heat shield at certain frequencies. That can be adjusted, but it is annoying.

There are 5" bodied pieces that I'm quite sure won't fit, but a 4" body should be okay I think... (Maybe that's more hope....)
I'm about to get my car back on a lift today or tomorrow to fix some leaks from the work I just had done. I can measure the size of the 2 hot dog resonators on it. They fit nicely in the tunnel with the X-pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well there ya go. :D

I'm thinking on placing an 18 and 12" back to back behind an X-Pipe. I think that'll give me the rowdy but refined sound that I like.

What about those V-Channel Flange/Clamps from Vibrant. I was thinking of using those for the mufflers. Or should I just stick with the slip joints there.
 

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2-1/2 or 3 in tube? 3 Wil be tight, near perfect alignment required.
 

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Well there ya go. :D

I'm thinking on placing an 18 and 12" back to back behind an X-Pipe. I think that'll give me the rowdy but refined sound that I like.

What about those V-Channel Flange/Clamps from Vibrant. I was thinking of using those for the mufflers. Or should I just stick with the slip joints there.
I'd say you need to keep the slip joints. IIRC the kooks mids are like the long tubes, in that they don't have any flex like the stock manifold/cat would have. Therefore you need to allow for some movement in the system. I think that's part of the problem I'm having right now. Getting it all just right since I have no flex joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You're right. If I do use the flanges I'll need to add some braided steel flexible joints into the mix. That'll help allow for movement.

I think it is the movement right now that causes exhaust leaks at the CAT pipe, which is why I am going to install some properly sized donut gaskets there. That'll probably allow for some heat expansion and soft movement as well while still retaining the sealed pipe.

So, I've got this down to X-Pipe plus some resonators, with the added clamps and flex joints.

Thanks for the good discussion. I think I'm narrowing it down. Any more thoughts are welcomed. :)
 

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Yeah, I'm debating what to do with flex, etc. I'm not 100% happy with the quality of the work of the place I went either. I'll give him a shot to fix it, but then I'll be headed elsewhere. The welds and such are fine, but the fitment, checking, measuring was a little haphazard. I was having to fix/adjust things as he worked on it. :/

I would still investigate the MF Tru-X mufflers. They are marketed as a "resonated X-pipe". You can see straight through them like an X-pipe.

I'll see if I can find the video to share, but a local SS owner had Kooks LTs, Kooks catless mid pipe, to stock 2015 SS mufflers, and it was crazy loud with his BTR stage 3 cam. He added a MF muffler to the kooks midpipe and tamed it down nicely. So yeah, he had 2 x-pipes, but apparently there is a bit of info out there supporting the benefit (or at least not loss) of having 2 x-pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, thinking it through, it would seem that the only reason the X-Resonator and X-Pipe combination only works because the perforations in the "hybrid" resonator-crossover that the MF Tru-X muffler is.

I went into a whole math experiment before deleting it.... :D

In short, the 2nd X-Pipe (if it was an actual traditional X-Pipe and not a Hybrid that MF's X-Res is) would seem to add a restriction to be overcome. It may be minimal, but if you consider the new volume available after crossing over, the net X would quite likely have a smaller available minimum radius than the new effective radius of the overall system if it was just one pipe. So it would restrict.

Would it be noticeable? I don't know. Like I said above, though, the MF Tru-X would overcome that with the design that really is less X and more Resonator.

Effectively, a 2.5" System has an effective "virtual" radius of 3.5" and a 3" system has one of 4.25" when you combine the pipes.

At least, that's how I see it... I never really considered it, but after running the numbers I'd advise against 2 Actual X-Pipes. Though, his really isn't... :)

I'd be interested to hear the sound even if I likely won't go that route....
 

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Well, thinking it through, it would seem that the only reason the X-Resonator and X-Pipe combination only works because the perforations in the "hybrid" resonator-crossover that the MF Tru-X muffler is.

I went into a whole math experiment before deleting it.... :D

In short, the 2nd X-Pipe (if it was an actual traditional X-Pipe and not a Hybrid that MF's X-Res is) would seem to add a restriction to be overcome. It may be minimal, but if you consider the new volume available after crossing over, the net X would quite likely have a smaller available minimum radius than the new effective radius of the overall system if it was just one pipe. So it would restrict.

Would it be noticeable? I don't know. Like I said above, though, the MF Tru-X would overcome that with the design that really is less X and more Resonator.

Effectively, a 2.5" System has an effective "virtual" radius of 3.5" and a 3" system has one of 4.25" when you combine the pipes.

At least, that's how I see it... I never really considered it, but after running the numbers I'd advise against 2 Actual X-Pipes. Though, his really isn't... :)

I'd be interested to hear the sound even if I likely won't go that route....
I wasn't suggesting to run 2 x-pipes, and I don't believe it was his goal. It just worked out that way, and the result seemed to work well. :) My suggestion, or at least the process I would likely take given the scenario would be to try the MF on it's own in place of the shorty muffler (or other x-pipe you planned to add). Then you could add hot dog resonators as you see fit.

IDK, maybe I'm making it more complicated. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #17
LOL Maybe a bit... Though, you're talking to King Complicated here...

I can't even install speakers without tearing the ENTIRE fracking interior of my car apart.... So installing resonators threatens to become a "learn to weld" project that I absolutely MUST resist. :D
 

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Corsa does two x pipes on some of their systems, like the one for my '15+ Mustang. Sounds good IMO, though more exotic.
Lots of the Mustang guys use those resonated X pipes and love them. I'd say do that or just get some bullet mufflers welded in anywhere you have room. Both of those options will just help to smooth out the sound a little and leave it loud at WOT. Do perforated piping, not louvered, for maximum flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The Vibrant stuff appears to be perforated. Though, I think I'll be going for the traditional X-Pipe set up because I know at least what will result from it since I had that on the previous modified factory set-up. After that it's still up in the air until I have time to really consider it more fully in the practical application sense.

I'd agree that the 2X would be for sound... I was more on the "benefit/detriment" part of the equation there for sure.... :D
 

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Xforce is 2 4" hot dog resonators next to each other on 3" pipe. They fit nicely in the tunnel, just behind the tunnel brace. There is about 0.5-0.75" gap between them.

Hopefully that gives you an idea of fitment/placement.
 
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