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Discussion Starter #1
Does anybody have firsthand experience using cheap rotors, i.e. eBay/brakemotive, rock auto, etc. and higher end rotors like DBA, stopotech, Hawks etc.?

I'm hoping somebody can say in their experience how long one lasted vs another and their experiences with each.

A full set of DBA rotors and pads runs about $800 and a full set of brakemotive's is $160. Will DBA's etc. Last 5x longer or more than eBay? I've used eBay stuff on other cars before and they seem ok. I believe I had them on either my 89 firebird or 96 z28 and I beat the crap out of them.
 

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F1rehawk
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I would never cheap out on such a crucial part of a vehicle. Most of the time (95%), you get what you pay for. Most Ebay rotors are made in China and prone to cracking/warping with some exceptions. I would go OEM from RockAuto or Centric Premium, which are reputable and affordable. It's all a question of budget and plans with the car also. The longevity of the rotor also depends on the pad you are using, with some compound more aggressive than others. Check out reviews online, they are a good indicator of customer's overall satisfaction. In case of doubt, just stick with OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea cost isn't exactly a problem, just trying to not waste money on what could be better spent elsewhere. Rock auto is about the same price as eBay.

I drive hard as often as I can and take every opportunity to get in some oversteer with occasional drag racing. Obviously not at the same time when I can manage it 😅😅😂
 

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F1rehawk
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Usually the warranty that comes with them is a good indicator of their reliability. I usually compare warranties and take the part with the lengthier one.
 

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every village has one
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Where are you located? Have a low mile. Set of DBA XS4000 and matching Hawk ceramic pads.
Not cost effective to ship.
I went with Brake Performance pads and rotors when I did the Brembo conversion. Lifetime warranty.
 

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I have EBC High Carbon blanks with Akebono ProACT pads on my daily driver Honda and R1Concepts Geomet High Carbon with Akebono ASP pads on my Brembo fitted G8, happy with both setups. On my Honda I have over 70,000 miles on the current brakes at well over 50% life (95% highway driving, lots of coasting to stop when possible)
 

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Pontiac Crazy
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I've been running these rotors for almost 2 years no problem. Car stops great and doesn't have any vibration under braking. I think I have about $450 in total for rotors and pads (Duralast CF/Metallic front, ceramic rear).
 

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It depends on your needs. If all you do with the car is daily driver, factory rotors are fine. They have been extensively tested to protect GM From lawsuits. If you do an occasional auto cross, factory roots with carbotech pads are my recommendation. Anything more serious should include updated rotors and pads. Having said that, I am running 4 pot Camaro calipers on my G8. I use DBA rotors and carbotech pads. In the past I ran track days and auto cross with not pa or rotor issue. When I ran the tracks and auto cross, I would change out the pads to higher friction and then change them back. Even after the runs, I am still using the same rotors from DBA. I do not have any experience with othe brands so I cannot speak about them. I will state that for daily driving on all the vehicles I perform brake jobs on (other than the G8), I use Delco rotors. This includes Fords as well as GM. On another note, if you change pads for performance and then back to daily driving, be sure they are f the same material. I also recommend using the same brand.
 

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Whether an OEM replacement rotor or an aftermarket high-end rotor, I've never had one warp unless the wheel wasn't properly torqued to the manufacturers specification. That's true no matter the vehicle manufacturer or brand. Anytime I have to have a shop do the work, such as state inspection, I always make a point of telling the shop manager that I want the lug nuts torqued to xxx lb/ft in three steps (like 70, 90, 110 lb/ft). When I explain why, they usually have no problem doing it. I've had a few thank me, as they've had other customers return after brake jobs with warped rotors. When they made it a shop rule to hand torque all lug nuts, they stopped the return problems.
 

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F1rehawk
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Whether an OEM replacement rotor or an aftermarket high-end rotor, I've never had one warp unless the wheel wasn't properly torqued to the manufacturers specification. That's true no matter the vehicle manufacturer or brand. Anytime I have to have a shop do the work, such as state inspection, I always make a point of telling the shop manager that I want the lug nuts torqued to xxx lb/ft in three steps (like 70, 90, 110 lb/ft). When I explain why, they usually have no problem doing it. I've had a few thank me, as they've had other customers return after brake jobs with warped rotors. When they made it a shop rule to hand torque all lug nuts, they stopped the return problems.
Now that is very useful information sir.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Whether an OEM replacement rotor or an aftermarket high-end rotor, I've never had one warp unless the wheel wasn't properly torqued to the manufacturers specification. That's true no matter the vehicle manufacturer or brand. Anytime I have to have a shop do the work, such as state inspection, I always make a point of telling the shop manager that I want the lug nuts torqued to xxx lb/ft in three steps (like 70, 90, 110 lb/ft). When I explain why, they usually have no problem doing it. I've had a few thank me, as they've had other customers return after brake jobs with warped rotors. When they made it a shop rule to hand torque all lug nuts, they stopped the return problems.
I've always just torqued hand tight and then to 100ft lbs. I've never heard of a three step thing like that
 

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Factory lugnut torque is 125ft/lbs. Rarely exceed 100ft/lbs and no perceivable issues with rotors warping as of yet. Believe some warping can be attributed to how the brakes are applied i.e. individual's driving habits. Of course, there many other variables to factor into the equation as well.
 
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