Pontiac G8 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone - I'm finally looking into redoing the stereo on my G8 and I was looking for some opinions.

I currently have this amp in my old car which i'd like to reuse if possible -
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DmphhutjXjn/p_108R475A/Infinity-Reference-475a.html

I see lots of people reccomending the infinity kappa's on here but I honestly wasnt a big fan of the sound (Too tinny for me). I have infinity reference in my old car and would like to do the same so i'm looking at these speakers -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INFINITY-RE...624567473?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item53f6e634b1

Would it be ok to just get two sets of those speakers for the front and back or should i look for a different type for the front? I'm planning on disconnecting the front speaker.

With these new speakers, do i need those factory tweeters at all? can I unhook them?


I also have a bazooka amp and a 10 inch sub + box from my old car i'll also be reusing.

once that's all done i'll be looking into doing the VIM and getting the the rear aux cables made up.


thanks for your help!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
I personally like Polk Audio and went with the DXI 6500 components in front and DXI 650 coaxials in back with a Phoenix Gold RX600.5 pushing them.

Very pleased.

Most guys run the Polk DB series and run coaxials front and back and get good results.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I personally like Polk Audio and went with the DXI 6500 components in front and DXI 650 coaxials in back with a Phoenix Gold RX600.5 pushing them.

Very pleased.

Most guys run the Polk DB series and run coaxials front and back and get good results.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Did you keep the front channel and those stock tweeters in the dash?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
Kept the front channel stock and is still hooked up to the HU.
Tweeters will be replaced with the DXI tweeters. Stock ones in for now but hooked up to crossovers.
Haven't gotten the chance to install the tweeters; will tackle that this weekend.

Also have an Audison Bit Ten D sound processor as well. It's beautiful. :D


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Kept the front channel stock and is still hooked up to the HU.
Tweeters will be replaced with the DXI tweeters. Stock ones in for now but hooked up to crossovers.
Haven't gotten the chance to install the tweeters; will tackle that this weekend.

Also have an Audison Bit Ten D sound processor as well. It's beautiful. :D


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
holy jeez.

i really hope i can get rid of my tweeters and front speaker.
 

· Texas state of mind...
Joined
·
1,318 Posts
Disconnect the center channel and stock tweets, they ruin the stage (too harsh, too bright).

Run some decent co-ax in the stock door location. Contrary to popular belief, co-ax speakers have alot going for them. If you can find the time and $ (it can be done cheap) then sound deaden/seal the doors. HUGE, and I mean HUGE, improvement.

If you have to, the tweets in the dash can be replaced with some soft domes, and keep the volume on them low. The reflections from the glass will be bright and in your face.

Your DSP, tuned correctly, will finish it off. In fact, since you have the DSP, if you don't properly deaden/seal your doors for your mids...it's almost a waste. With the DSP and well prepped doors...you will absolutely not need dash speakers of ANY kind running.
 

· Texas state of mind...
Joined
·
1,318 Posts
Funny you say that, because I've noticed some door speaker flutter.

I'm guessing I need to seal the doors pretty damn good then?

Until you do that, you simply cannot know how much it improves the sound!

This thread, I have a pic of my door with mat applied. It looks harder than it really is. Door trim comes off in 60 seconds, that's the easy part.

http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72202&highlight=

You can get a nice level of mat applied to each door in about 2 hours. I have ~25 ft³ per door, with another 10 or 12 ft³ on the door trim backside. You could skip the trim, depending on how much power and how hard you want the midrange/midbass to play. The trim can buzz and resonate (that big door pocket) at high power levels.

I have a thread here with some better pics....http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...llery/146248-my-noobish-first-sq-attempt.html
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,056 Posts
i'd strongly recommend you look for components up front. The only real added work is to pull up the front trim and fish the wire through the door. Maybe adds an hour to the install. Those that say you don't need it, have never had components.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Disconnect the center channel and stock tweets, they ruin the stage (too harsh, too bright).

Run some decent co-ax in the stock door location. Contrary to popular belief, co-ax speakers have alot going for them. If you can find the time and $ (it can be done cheap) then sound deaden/seal the doors. HUGE, and I mean HUGE, improvement.

If you have to, the tweets in the dash can be replaced with some soft domes, and keep the volume on them low. The reflections from the glass will be bright and in your face.

Your DSP, tuned correctly, will finish it off. In fact, since you have the DSP, if you don't properly deaden/seal your doors for your mids...it's almost a waste. With the DSP and well prepped doors...you will absolutely not need dash speakers of ANY kind running.
This is going to sound really stupid but, by DSP you're talking about the AMP right?

Also, I plan on getting the car done up with some sound deadening on the doors and trunk, is there anywhere else i should get it done?

I'll also be taking out the factory 8's and leaving those slots open for better sound from sub, correct?
 

· Texas state of mind...
Joined
·
1,318 Posts
i'd strongly recommend you look for components up front. The only real added work is to pull up the front trim and fish the wire through the door. Maybe adds an hour to the install. Those that say you don't need it, have never had components.
GOOD co-ax speakers can match components. Point source of sound is ALWAYS better than two sources. Time alignment and phase issues are hard to solve without signal processing. Two speakers far apart are hard to "time".

The Hybrid Audio Technology mid drivers I use are intentionally designed to be GREAT as a co-ax. And I would put them up against any other 300-400 buck componenet set out there.

You don't need components.
 

· Texas state of mind...
Joined
·
1,318 Posts
This is going to sound really stupid but, by DSP you're talking about the AMP right?

Also, I plan on getting the car done up with some sound deadening on the doors and trunk, is there anywhere else i should get it done?

I'll also be taking out the factory 8's and leaving those slots open for better sound from sub, correct?
No, DSP is Digital Signal Processing. You can change the phase, crossover, slope of the crossover, individual EQ bands for left right balance, as well as gains for each channel, and the biggy, time alignment.

TA (time alignment) gets each source of sound (3 speakers, or more) to your ears, or a point in space, at the same time, creating a "phantom" speaker(s). You get a higher "stage" height, a wider stage, and much crisper definition of individual instruments/sounds/voices.

It's huge, after getting the other parts installed correctly. This is the processor I am using, and I love it, love it, love it. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=117203
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No, DSP is Digital Signal Processing. You can change the phase, crossover, slope of the crossover, individual EQ bands for left right balance, as well as gains for each channel, and the biggy, time alignment.

TA (time alignment) gets each source of sound (3 speakers, or more) to your ears, or a point in space, at the same time, creating a "phantom" speaker(s). You get a higher "stage" height, a wider stage, and much crisper definition of individual instruments/sounds/voices.

It's huge, after getting the other parts installed correctly. This is the processor I am using, and I love it, love it, love it. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=117203

yikes, thats a bit (way) out of my price range. But that's something to consider for sure. Thanks for your advice!

one last thing (hopefully), if i'm doing co-ax do i just get 2 sets of the same speaker?
 

· Texas state of mind...
Joined
·
1,318 Posts
yikes, thats a bit (way) out of my price range. But that's something to consider for sure. Thanks for your advice!

one last thing (hopefully), if i'm doing co-ax do i just get 2 sets of the same speaker?
Since the rears are to "fill in" the sound, just leave them stock and get a better pair of fronts and sound deaden and seal them well. The FRONTS are what you want to get good midbass out of.

edit: that DSP is much cheaper...I paid 425 bucks for mine from a place named after a rain forest (still not cheap, but better than 700!).
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,056 Posts
GOOD co-ax speakers can match components. Point source of sound is ALWAYS better than two sources. Time alignment and phase issues are hard to solve without signal processing. Two speakers far apart are hard to "time".

The Hybrid Audio Technology mid drivers I use are intentionally designed to be GREAT as a co-ax. And I would put them up against any other 300-400 buck componenet set out there.

You don't need components.
I don't recall saying he needed components. I wonder why most manufacturers put in component speakers in their higher level cars...

anyhow. If you by an expensive set of coax speakers will they outperform some cheap components? sure.

All i know is that I tried my coax polks up front for giggles before I put in the components and there is a world of difference. It's not so substantial that coax up front is a waste, but they're not that much more expensive.

It's just my opinion and you're welcome to have yours.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
603 Posts
The most common benefit of component speakers is that you can tweak the crossover point and slope and they use a more advanced crossover. Yes, some coax speakers have a separate crossover that you can tweak, but that is rare. One huge benefit that coax has though, is that the tweeter is right on the woofer, so you won't have too many issues with separation of sound.

I'd still say go with component. They usually aren't much more expensive and the benefits make it worthwhile. The install will be a little more difficult since you'll have to wire the tweeter and woofer up to the crossover which means you will for sure have to route your own wire through the door for either the tweeter or woofer. I found the passenger side to be pretty easy to do, but the driver side was awful to do as there is some plastic piece that is in the way when fishing the wire through the door wire loom.

No matter what you do, I'd suggest not using the stock tweeter. I dont find the stock center to be THAT bad really, but you will definitely want to tame it down a bit with a processor or the resistor mod if you don't remove it. I'm still using the stock center but I have it turned down pretty far. It is more use for fill and to help bring the sound to the middle of the car for better imaging.

I've seen others use these speakers as well which have gotten good reviews. JBL ms-62c
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The most common benefit of component speakers is that you can tweak the crossover point and slope and they use a more advanced crossover. Yes, some coax speakers have a separate crossover that you can tweak, but that is rare. One huge benefit that coax has though, is that the tweeter is right on the woofer, so you won't have too many issues with separation of sound.

I'd still say go with component. They usually aren't much more expensive and the benefits make it worthwhile. The install will be a little more difficult since you'll have to wire the tweeter and woofer up to the crossover which means you will for sure have to route your own wire through the door for either the tweeter or woofer. I found the passenger side to be pretty easy to do, but the driver side was awful to do as there is some plastic piece that is in the way when fishing the wire through the door wire loom.

No matter what you do, I'd suggest not using the stock tweeter. I dont find the stock center to be THAT bad really, but you will definitely want to tame it down a bit with a processor or the resistor mod if you don't remove it. I'm still using the stock center but I have it turned down pretty far. It is more use for fill and to help bring the sound to the middle of the car for better imaging.

I've seen others use these speakers as well which have gotten good reviews. JBL ms-62c
good to know. I wasnt too concerned with the components since i'm just gonna pay someone to install everything (I'm super tall and clumsy and would rather have it done right).
 

· Texas state of mind...
Joined
·
1,318 Posts
I don't recall saying he needed components. I wonder why most manufacturers put in component speakers in their higher level cars...

anyhow. If you by an expensive set of coax speakers will they outperform some cheap components? sure.

All i know is that I tried my coax polks up front for giggles before I put in the components and there is a world of difference. It's not so substantial that coax up front is a waste, but they're not that much more expensive.

It's just my opinion and you're welcome to have yours.
No harm intended from me.

The co-ax you ran are not the same as the components, so comparing them is pointless since the co-ax is a cheaper build most likely then the component. Most co-ax have the woofer shallower, to make room to mount the tweet, which results in less cone excursion than a typical component of the same size, so of course in that case, the component is usually going to outperform the co-ax.

There some very good co-ax models, for the same price as components, that perform very well. Yes, it takes a serious effort to make a co-ax as good, but it is done. In fact, my speakers are convertible, so you can run them as co-ax OR component, by installing a phase plug. And I may do them seperate one day in the near future.

http://hybrid-audio.com/imagine/ my 6.5", the HAT "bargain level 2" mids can outperform many "high end" components. Fantastic company.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
No harm intended from me.

The co-ax you ran are not the same as the components, so comparing them is pointless since the co-ax is a cheaper build most likely then the component. Most co-ax have the woofer shallower, to make room to mount the tweet, which results in less cone excursion than a typical component of the same size, so of course in that case, the component is usually going to outperform the co-ax.

There some very good co-ax models, for the same price as components, that perform very well. Yes, it takes a serious effort to make a co-ax as good, but it is done. In fact, my speakers are convertible, so you can run them as co-ax OR component, by installing a phase plug. And I may do them seperate one day in the near future.

http://hybrid-audio.com/imagine/ my 6.5", the HAT "bargain level 2" mids can outperform many "high end" components. Fantastic company.
Hello, I have a question unrelated to this thread sorry...Is the setup that you have good for rap/hip hop music?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
GOOD co-ax speakers can match components. Point source of sound is ALWAYS better than two sources. Time alignment and phase issues are hard to solve without signal processing. Two speakers far apart are hard to "time".

The Hybrid Audio Technology mid drivers I use are intentionally designed to be GREAT as a co-ax. And I would put them up against any other 300-400 buck componenet set out there.

You don't need components.
if i could have 6.5 speaker mounted in my dash in front of my face, I would agree with you. But the speaker is sitting so low on the door that the sound of the tweeter gets muffled by driver's legs. In fact, it's so bad that if you move your leg, you can hear the difference in sound. There's no way I would agree with putting co-ax speaker over components in the front.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top