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Hi everyone, been a long time lurker but this is my first post in here. Yesterday I installed a new aftermarket subwoofer amplifier in my G8 GT. All of the connections are perfect, grounds are nice and tight and clean, but I developed this really strange start-up problem since installing.

1 - The car does not start if I turn the key quickly, I have to slowly turn the key to the ON position, wait for they System Check to come on the DIC, and then turn the key one more turn and the car will turn on.

2- The remote start is not working. I lock the doors, everything is shut and latched, I press the remote start on the key fob and the lights flash twice, then nothing happens. Strangely, if I turn on the car with the key in the ignition, turn the car off, remove the key, stay in the car and remote start it, it works. But if I turn it off, get out of the car and try it, the lights just flash and nothing happens.

I've tried unhooking my aftermarket amplifier and nothing changes. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!!!!
 

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I found myself testing various starting conditions, due to the weird problems you are having. In my car I "only" get 2 flashes when i hit the "unlock" button. Whether the car is unlocked or already locked, when I hit the lock button to initiate the remote start function, I "only" get 1 flash from the running lights. "If" all the cars (that came with the remote start function) were programmed the same and work with one flash, are you sure your not accidentally hitting the "unlock" button in error.

That slow key rotation (in order to get a normal engine start), has got me stumped for now (or maybe forever).
 

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Weak battery?
 

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What"s the outcome >>>> Do you get 1 or 2 flashes when you press the key fob lock button as required, before quickly pressing the start button in an attempt to remote start the engine ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey GOPHERIT, I didnt pay attention to the flashes when hitting the lock button, but when I press the remote start it is just 1 flash. Also, I tried jumping the hood latch connector today, no dice. Finally decided to discover the Engineering mode on the DIC, Battery Charge read 0.3% ☠. Took it to the auto parts store to test, they said the battery is good, just needs a charge. I’m gonna pick up a charger tomorrow morning and charge the battery up, hopefully thats what’s causing it cuz I’ve already replaced an ass load of fuses that I thought remotely could have been effected.
Will update tomorrow evening!
 

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OK >>>> I'll monitor your progress (if you continue to post). If you "didn't" throw away those obviously good (but used) fuses, you at least have a nice supply of spare fuses to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lol I keep all of my fuses unless they are visibly blown, always comes in handy for times like these. I had no idea how many 7.5 and 2amp fuses I had till I looked in my stash.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bought a fuse tester, turned out my F12-2A under the dash was blown and so was my spare. Replaced it with a brand new one, remote start works and my weird key issue is gone, BACK TO NORMAL!!
Thanks for your prompt replies GOPHERIT
 

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I believe you >>>> Its just amazing that since that fuse powers up the theft deterrent circuit, is the power source to an thru the ignition switch, that you were able to have the car allow you to start it at all. It sounds like that fuse position was letting some amount of power get thru to everything, but not good enough voltage to have all things work as they were designed. My mind, an understanding of what an how that circuit functions, are all messed up now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Everytime an electrical issue pops up with any of my cars I just wanna blow my brains out. It’s amazing how such a small issue can cause a basket case of problems which make it so difficult to track down the root cause of it all. I read through probably every “remote start wont work” thread in this forum and read someone mention that fuse number so I thought what the heck, what do I have to lose by checking that one.

Craziness.
 
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