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Discussion Starter #1
Ok everyone so I know this topic has been discussed multiple times but I can’t pin down my problem. I have the steering wheel shake at anything over 55mph. I have replaced LCA’s, radius arms, struts, strut bushings, end links, inner and outer tie rods, wheel bearings, new rotors with new pads, brand new michelin tires that were all road force balanced, pretty much anything that controls steering or suspension in the front end besides the actual rack and pinion. I can not get this shake to go away. Does anyone have any idea on what the H*** I’m missing or could my rack be shot? Also how much side to side play should be allowed on new LCA’s? Just trying to figure out why I can’t get this shake to go away. Also I have swapped rims and everything stayed the same no matter what I did. Any help is appreciated!!!
 

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F1rehawk
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Stupid question, but do you have the steering wheel symptom ALL the time over 55mph? For some reason mine is intermittent and I came to the conclusion it was because of road surface on the highway. Went out with my beater and there would be slight shaking on some portions of the highway as well.
 

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Yep all the time no matter what road surface I'm on. Its really become annoying because its not just a mild shimmy, it will shake the hell out of your hand anything over 55. I've replaced/ done everything that i think it could be but i still have it and it got me no where.
 

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The Mustang dude
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Take it to a alignment shop and let them check it. Im thinking rack is worn.
 

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Sorry I forgot to say it has been on alignment rack 2 times and checked out fine. Do you think the rack could cause a shake like that?
 

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I have also been battling a steering wheel shake over 55mph and have replaced many parts with no luck and have gone down a very similar path as you with multiple shop visits and no one can figure it out. The smoothest its ever been was after taking it to a smaller shop that I believe used a more 'primitive' technique of wheel balancing and it was much better than the bigger shops that have nicer road force balancing machines. No idea what they might've done that was different but it almost no shake after they balanced the wheels. My only thought is that our car is just really sensitive to out of balance wheels.

Does your shake go away at all at higher speeds over 55? Mine seems to be worst around 55-70 but over 70 settles down a bit.
 

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My beater car (99 Toyota Camry) was guarantied to start shaking at about 68 mph an above. The sidewalls were distorted just sitting (I'm sure they had separated from each other). Eventually the left rear tire ripped apart a portion of the thread. Now some real shaking ensued. Bought new tires (just a cheap set rated as good), an all shaking completely stopped. You have the problem with the previous an current tires, so it looks like those have to be eliminated. Since the drive shaft has a constant rotational speed at any given speed, your sort of compromised to test its reaction to various rpm's at the 55 mark. You could drive along at say, 55 or 60 using various gear selections (that would allow you to verify/eliminate the engines RPM as the problem).
 

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Get the print out from the alignment shop. These cars do not like a lot of toe in. Lets see what the actual specs they aligned it too.
 

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Might be a rudimentary/asinine question, but are the lugnuts properly torqued in a traverse pattern to 125ft lb?
 

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Also, have the wheels been checked and confirmed to be round?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Answer both of the questions yes the wheels were torqued to 125 and the rims have been tested/ checked and came back good. I’m pretty sure though last night we found the issue and it was the hub centric rings I had on the front of the car were actually manufactured wrong. 1 side is thicker than the other and it was keeping the wheel higher on the hub that it should have. Took off the front rings and the car drove 1000 times better. So just keeping fingers crossed now that it was the problem and hopefully it’s gone
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No they are a aftermarket staggered set
 

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No they are a aftermarket staggered set
i also have aftermarket staggered and never had the shakes with the stock rims, but got them after they were put on. One cure I found was hubcentric rings. There are some threads here on it and google of course. It was so long ago that I can't remember the specifics of our hubs, but the rings would correct for some issues and it helped but did not fully eliminate the shakes. Eventually new tires on the same rims and I only get the shakes once in a blue moon.
 

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Are both calipers releasing?
another good thing to check. you may not have one totally seized and still have it sticking. After driving check to see if any are "extra" hot. lol.
 

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If the hub has corrosion and the centering rings were manufactured incorrectly [which I've see non both plastic and metal variants - the injection molding was poor or the machining had an incorrect thickness on a flange or offset] - that will compound the issue.

I don't like hub rings as much. I like to center the wheel with the lug nuts and manually lifting the wheel to center [if aftermarket more so] and tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern until the wheel is centered, rather than using rings. Then apply final torque.

The other issue - rotors. Aftermarket rotors have a variation in casting more often than not. Spin the rotor and look at the vanes, if you see a gradual or obvious "wave" in the center...that is a poorly cast rotor, to keep it simple.
 

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I was having steering wheel vibrations with 20mm spacers on my stock 19s - had to use them when I upgraded to brembos. When I went to my local tire shop, the technician grabbed the sides of the front tire and noticed some simultaneous play on both ends when wiggled back and forth. Perhaps the gears are worn... The good thing is that the steering gear assembly is not too expensive ~ 400 with the tie rods and bushing. Might give my car a steering refresh...
 

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Slowly gaining acceptance
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I just finished rebuilding my front end, with the exception of the inner tie rods, and after an alignment and wheel balance I still have a shake. I'm going to take my front wheels and spacers out, take the rotors out, clean everything, and carefully put it back together. If that doesn't work, process of elimination is the inner tie rods.
 

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I just finished rebuilding my front end, with the exception of the inner tie rods, and after an alignment and wheel balance I still have a shake. I'm going to take my front wheels and spacers out, take the rotors out, clean everything, and carefully put it back together. If that doesn't work, process of elimination is the inner tie rods.
Have you tried using the roadforce balancer on your wheels and tires?
 
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