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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am sure this has been asked countless times, but I would like a little more direct answer for specifically what I am going to do..

I am thinking about purchasing a single Kicker L7 in a box and running it off another amp that isn't the factory one. During this, I will probably also be replacing the bad 8" stock rear subs and putting in some Polk Audio 8" 840DVC.

My question to you guys is what would the ideal wattage be for running the L7? (I believe it is 750 rms) I do have an older Planet Audio 1000.1 amp that I think would work perfectly, but that if I can find it. Then also, how would I wire the new sub/amp combo into working with our radio?

Any info would be greatly appreciated and feel free to dumb it down a little. Stereo equipment is my weakness when it comes to cars.
 

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So I am sure this has been asked countless times, but I would like a little more direct answer for specifically what I am going to do..

I am thinking about purchasing a single Kicker L7 in a box and running it off another amp that isn't the factory one. During this, I will probably also be replacing the bad 8" stock rear subs and putting in some Polk Audio 8" 840DVC.

My question to you guys is what would the ideal wattage be for running the L7? (I believe it is 750 rms) I do have an older Planet Audio 1000.1 amp that I think would work perfectly, but that if I can find it. Then also, how would I wire the new sub/amp combo into working with our radio?

Any info would be greatly appreciated and feel free to dumb it down a little. Stereo equipment is my weakness when it comes to cars.
I have an L7 loaded enclosure in my car. Running of a kicker zxs 1000.1 amp. Your amp is the same wattage. Just make sure you know what your resistance rating is. Mine is 2 ohms. The L7 comes in 2 ohm and 4 ohm. Also don't get the 15" one. It will NOT fit in the trunk without a custom box. Mine is 12" and is literally a perfect fit. If you are looking for help on install it is simple. Just search for it on here. If you have any questions I can pm you pics of what I did.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The L7 that I am looking at is the 2 ohms version as I have heard better things about it. As for the amp I am trying to figure out any information on the thing lol. I have been looking online and saw a Kicker 1000.1 amp for pretty cheap and mind just consider picking that up. Yeah I will be going with the 12" L7 so everything should fit perfect. Where did you install yours? I'd appreciate it very much if you could send me a couple pictures of what you did. I am more of a visual guy rather than reading a bunch of text lol.
 

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1st, you really cant run anything off the stock amp so I'm glad you ruled that out haha. I also wouldn't even bother with the open air subs. Your sub in a box should be enough, and if you're worried it's not then buy a bigger better one and just leave the stock 8's in place. open air subs are waste of time and money. Put the money in some polk 6501's up front instead.
 

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I agree with Belo. Forget about the Polks and put the money towards a better amp or some from speakers to replace the crappy stock ones.

There are plenty of threads about hooking up a sub and I believe even a sticky. You can either tap off of the stock amp connector to get a high level input which some sub amps will accept, but I think you lose the head unit audio controls with that, but I'm not positive. Or you could tap the wires that come out the side of the head unit. The issue with that is you'll have to run wires from the front of the car to the back.

Just checked and there is a sticky for installing a sub. http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5523
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome, thanks for all the advice guys! I was thinking to just scrap the whole open air subs too cause they really don't do much, and would be pretty useless after a sub in a box is installed.

If and when I replace the door speakers, any certain type that people run more often? I've heard a lot about polk audio so I am assuming they make the size we need. Don't we need a speaker that is "shallower" than most others? Also, since I will most likely be disconnecting the stock amp to run my new amp, how does that make the door speakers sound, since you are no longer sending a signal to the speakers from the amp I would assume the sound quality isn't good at all.
 

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Yes, most people run those polks since they are a good fit. My buddy has them in his car and they are pretty nice for the price. With many other speakers you'll have to make a bracket that brings the speaker out a bit otherwise it will hit the window. It really all depends on what you're going for. If you want something that sounds better than stock, then those polks will be plenty. If you want something that will get crazy loud and stay crisp then those polks might not be enough for you.

You can run them off the stock amp (there is no reason to disconnect it) but an aftermarket amp would be a lot better overall. I really like the JL XD amps since they are so small.

You should try and make a decision now on how much you want to do though. If you plan to do new speakers and amps as well as the sub, then you will need to route wires from the head unit to the back. So you should just do that right away instead of tapping off the stock amp for the sub. You'll also probably want to look into a sound processor or line out converter. I know a lot of people like the AudioControl LC6i and their other products for line out converters. If you want a sound processor then here are some nice ones but may be excessive for your needs:

JBL MS-8 ( This is what I have and I love it )
Alpine PXE-H660 ( My buddy has this and it is also very nice, just not as modifiable as others )
Alpine PXA-H800
Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2
Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3
 

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Took some pics for you today.
1st pic. Just a pic of my setup
2nd pic. How I hooked up the power. Note the positive is a pain in the balls to hook up. Grey wire is the ground. Just hooked it into the factory ground.
3rd pic. How I hooked up the line out convertor. Basically got come hook connectors and straightened them out. Then shoved them into the amp hookup. Worked just fine.
4th pic. I run my amp off of audio signal. NOT 12V! The 12v hookup (blue/brown wire) did not work for me.

Also I have a gain knob under my steering wheel. So I can control how loud the sub is from my seat. Install time was probably 2 hours
 

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i have some Image dynamics IDMax 12"ers that you can run free air to help save u trunk space!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Took some pics for you today.
1st pic. Just a pic of my setup
2nd pic. How I hooked up the power. Note the positive is a pain in the balls to hook up. Grey wire is the ground. Just hooked it into the factory ground.
3rd pic. How I hooked up the line out convertor. Basically got come hook connectors and straightened them out. Then shoved them into the amp hookup. Worked just fine.
4th pic. I run my amp off of audio signal. NOT 12V! The 12v hookup (blue/brown wire) did not work for me.

Also I have a gain knob under my steering wheel. So I can control how loud the sub is from my seat. Install time was probably 2 hours
So when you hooked up your power, did you use the remote backup plug that we have just hanging out near our stock amp? If so, how did you run power from that into your amp?

In pic 3 your line out converter is the black box above your battery right? You hook that up to the stock amp harness and change out the 4 wires and run them through the line converter then simply use the rca's on the other side and hook them right up to your amp, correct?

I think I have picture 3 down for installing it correctly, but not 100% sure. The thing that is really confusing to me is running the the remote line through the backup plug. I am just not completely sure on how to do that. Other than that, I think I have most of the process down, but you tell me lol.
 

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Awesome, thanks for all the advice guys! I was thinking to just scrap the whole open air subs too cause they really don't do much, and would be pretty useless after a sub in a box is installed.

If and when I replace the door speakers, any certain type that people run more often? I've heard a lot about polk audio so I am assuming they make the size we need. Don't we need a speaker that is "shallower" than most others? Also, since I will most likely be disconnecting the stock amp to run my new amp, how does that make the door speakers sound, since you are no longer sending a signal to the speakers from the amp I would assume the sound quality isn't good at all.
you do not need shallow speakers. Infinitis and alpines are also popular. Just tap into the stock lead and pull the l/r signal from it.


remote turn on
 

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You do not need shallow speakers. Infinitis and alpines are also popular.
I would have to disagree with this. Without a mounting bracket there isn't much room behind the door before you hit the window. My Focal's didn't even come close to fitting and that is a 3" deep woofer. I had to make a bracket using a 3/4" MDF ring to bring it far enough out from the door so it wouldn't hit the window and it is still ridiculously close, as in less than 1/8" from the window. The polk DB651s that most people buy have a mounting depth of 2 5/16" and those fit if you use the stock mounting bracket.

You also need to know that the stock mounting bracket wont fit many speakers as the diameter of the hole isn't big enough. My woofer cutout diameter is 5.5" and it didn't fit but the polks have a cutout diameter of 5" and those fit with some trimming.
 

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if you mount the polk to the existing stock bracket it fits just fine. Unless of course my G8 is different from everyone else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
you do not need shallow speakers. Infinitis and alpines are also popular. Just tap into the stock lead and pull the l/r signal from it.


remote turn on
Thank you very much! This is exactly what I needed to see! So basically just splice into the blu/brn wire and use that for the remote? Right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes but it doesn't always work. Mine didn't give me any power
So then where did you get power if not from the backup sensor plug?
 

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Thank you very much! This is exactly what I needed to see! So basically just splice into the blu/brn wire and use that for the remote? Right?
correct. if it doesn't work for someone than i'd check fuses. I blew one while doing the install and i can't remember which fuse it was but it's in the drivers side kick panel. I'd suggest you use a self tapping wire clamp. Very easy.
 

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correct. if it doesn't work for someone than i'd check fuses. I blew one while doing the install and i can't remember which fuse it was but it's in the drivers side kick panel. I'd suggest you use a self tapping wire clamp. Very easy.
I used a quick connect to ensure a good connection. So maybe I did have a blown fuse
 

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Problem with using that harness for a remote trigger is that it requires the key to be on to activate your system. If you want your system to come on whenever the radio is on you'll need a signal sense based turn on. A cheap LOC will usually work for this if your amp or processor doesn't already do this.
 
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