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Discussion Starter #1
I was getting some bad vibrations in neutral when revving so after some searching on here I decided that it was the stock damper causing problems.

I ended up going with the stock sized ATI just because I didn't think the extra 10hp was worth taxing the accessories. But to each his own. The ATI I bought was very heavy, more so than the stock damper. I bought 917246.

Here's the install.

What the stock looked like.


The 917246 Kit


This is how I kept the stock pulley in place so I could get off the crank bolt. It was tight as hell!! I used a 15/16 6pt socket.



I actually found this in my tool box. I didn't even know that I had it. It's a good thing I did because I don't think I would have gotten it off without it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
To get the pulley off I used the old bolt to push against. But the bolt isn't long enough to get it backed out enough and still have threads left to push against so I found a few washers laying around and did this.






Crank snout


Notice the friction bearing on the backside of the pulley. ATI says to reuse it unless you are pinning the shaft, which I didn't.



This is a shot of the new bearing assembly on my barrel stove kit. I have two old rotors on top acting as radiators and it was a great place to stick this to heat it up for install. Heating made a HUGE difference. It slid right on when it was hot.


Here it is installed. They say to tighten it to 240 ft lbs then follow GM's instructions with a new crank bolt but I couldn't hold the crank well enough to get to 240. I ended up hitting it with the impact for a while to ensure it was seated well.


Also I had a scare when putting it together. First you put on the hub with the AC pulley loose behind it. Then you put on the front pulley. I did that and installed the 6 short bolts that hold the front pulley to the hub. Then there are 3 that go through the hub back to the AC pulley. If you don't use the right holes, the bolts won't fit. In my case, they were too small and wouldn't hold onto the threads. Just back out the 3 bolts and give the back pulley a turn till you find the new holes. Eventually I found the holes that were correct and I torqued everything down.


Runs smooth now!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
One more side note. I took off the upper radiator hose and the fans to get better access. Easy to do and I highly suggest it.
 

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I need to get ahold of ATI and find out if they make one for Procharger.
 

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There is an access hole in the bellhousing where you can wedge a flatbar or large flat-blade screw driver into the flywheel to stop the engine from spinning. Makes removal and retorquing a lot easier.

I didn't know what the friction bearing was - might have if I would have bothered to read the instructions that came with my SLP UDP. Just took a guess and reinstalled it.
 

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I too have this ATI and did the install, its not exactly easy but its for sure worth it. The ATI billet damnper is an amazing piece
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There is an access hole in the bellhousing where you can wedge a flatbar or large flat-blade screw driver into the flywheel to stop the engine from spinning. Makes removal and retorquing a lot easier.

I didn't know what the friction bearing was - might have if I would have bothered to read the instructions that came with my SLP UDP. Just took a guess and reinstalled it.
Yea I read that somewhere during my install but just didn't do it. I figured that would require another person to help. And I wasn't going to get that at 1am during a snowstorm! :)
 

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GWS Pontiac
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Digging up a 3 1/2 year old thread...

I am about to do an ATI 917246 install on a 2011 L77 with 16K miles.

On all the threads I've read regarding balancer installs, no one seems to be replacing the crank seal.

Is there a reason the crank seal is not being mentioned as part of the balancer install?

Is seal relacement a little overkill or smart insurance?

I just ordered one and will add that step to my process. I should take pictures and make an installation thread.

Regarding the ATI, it appears that I should install the (heated) hub first with the AC Pulley loose behind it then build the balancer on the car in the engine bay. There have been suggestions of building the ATI completely off the car before the install.

Any opinions?
 

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I'd Rather Be Shifting
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I am about to do an ATI 917246 install on a 2011 L77 with 16K miles.

On all the threads I've read regarding balancer installs, no one seems to be replacing the crank seal.

Is there a reason the crank seal is not being mentioned as part of the balancer install?

Is seal relacement a little overkill or smart insurance?

I just ordered one and will add that step to my process. I should take pictures and make an installation thread.

Regarding the ATI, it appears that I should install the (heated) hub first with the AC Pulley loose behind it then build the balancer on the car in the engine bay. There have been suggestions of building the ATI completely off the car before the install.

Any opinions?

Are you referring to the seal that pops off with the pulley, or do you mean the actual front crank seal? I never replaced the former -- and I never had problems. If you're referring to the latter, I never replaced that, either, and I had over 100k on it when I changed the pulley.
 

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GWS Pontiac
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Are you referring to the seal that pops off with the pulley, or do you mean the actual front crank seal? I never replaced the former -- and I never had problems. If you're referring to the latter, I never replaced that, either, and I had over 100k on it when I changed the pulley.
I am wondering about the the crank seal in the timing cover. I ordered one so I have it if I feel I need it. I haven't read a balancer thread that addresses the crank seal so replacement is probably unnecessary.

ATI suggests reusing the friction bearing behind the balancer if so equipped. It seems as if some applications have it and some don't...
 

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I am wondering about the the crank seal in the timing cover. I ordered one so I have it if I feel I need it. I haven't read a balancer thread that addresses the crank seal so replacement is probably unnecessary.

ATI suggests reusing the friction bearing behind the balancer if so equipped. It seems as if some applications have it and some don't...
you have to pull the timing cover to replace the seal/balancer , the cover is very thin in that area you will likely crack it otherwise and the cover should be loose anyway when installing a new balancer to align the seal to the snout like the gm tool does you press on the balancer and the snout aligns the seal then you tighten the timing cover bolts...dont use the old bolt to push against either (not that thats what was described but ive seen people try it) ...essentially your pushing against the crank threads that way which is super,super bad and could cause you a huge headache and alot of money ...

grab a 3/4" 3/8" drive socket and sit in against the snout with the bolt removed and the drive side facing towards you and push against that with the puller ..fyi the autozone chrysler puller #27043 is the same as the gm tech/kent moore ls balancer puller its $75 to rent if you dont have one and works perfect with a socket in there ..
 

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Oh also to hold the crank to remove the bolt a simple 2ft long piece of chain like a tow chain works perfect wrapped around the passenger side of the subframe and hooked to the balancer ...

usually I wedge an old rad hose cut length wise where the chain contacts the balancer edge ...has worked for years on everything from an ls truck to my own g8 before the starter lock tool was available and still way easier then pulling the starter to install that tool.

oddly enough I have used an old seatbelt just tied the same way in a pinch too lol


the friction washer is the same design as the hellcat uses , dodge thought that was enough to stop the balancer on the hellcat from spinning ,,,few engine replacements later and now the diy guys are pinning the cranks ...for an na LS Id say it does help it so Id replace it and use it on them all even pinned...I think gm phased them in in the 05 vette and everything else got them shortly after...the g8 definitely has one on all years
 

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I'd Rather Be Shifting
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Never pinned my UDP's -- but I also don't spin past 6500.

As for R&R... I've always had good luck using the rented balancer puller from Advance. It's free and works. One trick I've learned is that if you take the old balancer bolt and take a dremel to the large lip around the head, you can make it slide in the center of the hub so it will just slide right over it. This helps to keep from needing to stop and readjust.

For reinstall, I bought this: Hawk LS Series Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool (GM LS1, LS6, LS2 & LS3) [HP61805]
 

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I'd Rather Be Shifting
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It's not a bad choice -- just an OE replacement. You could go for their "Race Series" which is the 25% underdrive. RPM Speed has the best pricing for that stuff, IMO.
 

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Under drive for accessories with 100% speed for A/C

Does anyone make an Under drive pully for accessories with 100% speed for A/C?
It gets hot in FL lol
 
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