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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After poking around the texas speed site stroker kits, and seeing their 4.005" pistons, is it reasonable to throw a stroker kit into your existing shortblock with a simple cylinder hone? My car has 26K miles on it, could still see factory hone marks when I did my cam swap last month.

For example, I could go to 402 for about $2K it seems. Plus that's a nice way to get a CR bump.

Does the block require any clearancing for the 4.00" stroke?

Any issues with the rod/stroke ratio?
 

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You can buy the stroker kit and don it yourself. However, I would probably advise having a qualified shop do the assembly. They will check for clearances, uniformity, and balance. I'm with you though, for a cost and drivability standpoint, you can beat a stroker for bang-for-the-buck value.

Find a local engine builder and get some quotes. I've also have heard good things about AES in Chicagoland, whom built a motor for a guy in the local G8 club. If you don't mind shipping freight.

It is rather labor intensive to pull a motor and put it back in. Might as well have it down right. If you do end up doing it yourself, keep us up to date. Good luck!


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Almost better off getting a Maggie, I built a lq4 408 for my TA. After everything, it ended up costing more than my Procharger set up. All the little things nickel and dime you to death. Plus the drivability with the Maggie will be nearly close to stock. Same as the stroker, unless you but a big narly can in it :)

Not saying you can't do it on the cheap, but you don't want to take short cuts on it either.
 

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What would be the HP/TQ Gains?
All the 408 builds I have seen depending on the heads and cam one uses and the Dyno. 500hp/500tq is a fairly common number to reach plus or minus either way.
 

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Yeah
 

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WOW! I feel Like I should have know that. I need to look into this for pricing for myself. What all is needed to make a true stroker? I am new to stroker kits and such. Sorry if this is thread jacking.
 

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WOW! I feel Like I should have know that. I need to look into this for pricing for myself. What all is needed to make a true stroker? I am new to stroker kits and such. Sorry if this is thread jacking.
Here are a couple of examples of rotating assemblies. Of course you will need to buy all the other little additional things to go along with it. Which can be numerous.

You will have to strip the block and have it machined, there is a lot of work involved. Its a good winter project when the car is sitting for a few months. Its not exactly something you can do over the weekend like a Maggie Kit.

Hope that helps.

texas-speed.com/p-1016-tsp-408-cid-lq4lq9ly6-rotating-assembly.aspx

http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/categories/GM%7B47%7DPontiac/2008%252d09-G8/2008%252d09-G8-Engine/2008%252d09-G8-Rotating-Assemblies/
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well see that is what I was wondering. Do you *have* to go to a machine shop? Is 4.005" a hone or a bore? If the former, you can do with an electric drill yourself. As long as you buy the cranks, rods, piston pre-balanced, should be able to check your clearances with a mic and bore dial indicator, and probably bolt it together. Maybe you file fit some rings. I think this certainly is in the range of the skill amateur mechanic, with some investment in some engine tools. I certainly prefer to spend money on new tools than pay for someone else to do it.

Horsepower TV had a good two part episode on putting together a Summit-prepared 383 block. It was actually quite informative. You can watch it online.

So the question I had goes unanswered - does any clearancing need to be done to the block to clear the longer stroke? For example, notching oil pan rails, larger oil pan, small base circle cam....
 

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I would think most would agree that you would at least need the block honed. You don't really need to bore it out. The CID difference from a line hone to a bore would take it from a 402 with a 4.005 bore, to a 408 with a 4.020 bore, if my memory serves me.

I am not sure on an L76 block if you will need to clearence the block at all, that is better answered by someone thats done it on the board here. I do know that on lq4/lq9/ls2 you typically do, depending on the rods you use. That's not really a big deal, when you mock up the motor before final assembly you would check that anyway.
 

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not to put any dampers on anything but isnt a bad thing to bore .020 out of the alum block. Should go with the iron block is your looking to bored a bit or alot of boost
 
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