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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so I've been installing car audio equipment for over 20 years (not at a store or anywhere) and I consider myself pretty versed at it. I am stumped, I need a master at this. Everyone I talk to is stumped, even the guys at the car audio store. Who can solve the unsolveable?

I just added another amp to my system just for the door speakers, which are Kicker competition series speakers. I have 2-8" polk subs in the package tray and 1-12" sub in a ported box. I never had a problem with this set up until I added the door amp. Now if I have the amps triggered and the radio off then shut the trunk lid or shut one off the doors or hit the floor of the trunk I get feed back through the 12" sub. Super deep sound and just loud as all can be.
I tried moving the amps, tried moving my wiring around. If I pull the sub half the way out of the trunk, nothing happens when you shut the doors. When the feed back is happening if you turn the radio on it stops the feed back and sounds great.
HELP ME PLEASE!!
 

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What do you mean by amps triggered? You mean on ? I assume so. Could there be a bad connection for the RCA cords do to a bad or loose end . I'd take the time to back track. If it worked fine before you added the amp. Get yourself back to where you didn't have it and are back to what you had going on before the amp install. Your adding one amp and so it should be power wire ,ground wire ,your RCA cable with remote on wire and last but not least your speaker wire speakers to amp. Bad Ground would not cause it to make noise like that. Power wire loose or bad would not do it either. So I say its some where in the RCA's or maybe speaker wire. You shake the car and in turn it makes that happen and that's why I say its something loose or bad . If you pull the box and stretch whatever cord you are,then it stops. You turning the radio on and you can't make it happen is a little bit of a baffle. I'd say go back to where you where and didn't have it at all. Try different wiring if possible. That you've moved it around and hasn't changed anything ,using different wire may be a good way to trouble shoot although I know that costs more bucks but if no one can figure it out ,time for drastic measures lol. Good luck . Maybe pictures of the wiring and set up might help us help you .
 

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Pull the rcas or high inputs and see if it still happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok so I changed the RCA's on both amps and it still happens. I checked every connection again and all are good. I pulled the fuse on the new amp and it still happens. I am going to change the sub amp, maybe something happened inside? My buddy is bringing his amp over in a few moments. I'm getting more and more grey hair by the day, haha
thanks for all the help fellas
 

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Good luck man
 

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Isolate, isolate, isolate. Hook the 8's or one of them to the amp for the 12's and see if the problem continues. Basically, isolate as much as possible until hopefully you're left with one possible cause. I bet you find that the amp or the sub itself is the culprit, given the symptoms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's funny you say that about the amp/sub. I had a buddy bring his equipment over and we tried all different sub/amp combinations. It still did it, so my thought the only thing left is speaker wire and the8's. Everything else has been replaced/swapped out.
Once again thanks for the input and brain storming.
 

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Keep swapping parts, you'll eventually find what is causing the problem. (Check your battery cable connections as well) Let us know what you end up finding.
 

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How did your system sound with just Polk 8s? Did you get a bigger amp to run them? I am just curious of your set up, my stock 8s are blown and I am looking to replace them, but am having trouble deciding/figuring out what to do. I am not looking to be heard from blocks away just want some decent bass.
 

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Sounds like its picking up noise on the remote turn on line to the amp. Try removing the remote turn on line so the amp shouldn't power on. If that removes the noise then I would try adding a small capacitor, roughly 1 microfd from the turn on line to ground. If that helps, but doesn't completely stop it, then add a relay to that line with the capacitor on the remote input line near the relay and the power from a better source near the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jasonp31-I have checked them and they were fine, I will definitely will keep the update.
Jus19tin-When I put the Polk 8's I added a 12 at that same time but it sounded real good.
Netfly-The bass amp has to be powered up for it to happen, I will check this

According to this old man installer at Mickey Shorr car audio, it's the head unit. He said he has seen this problem quite a lot with stock head units and after market amps/speakers. I am going to keep examining the system until I have the coin to replace the head unit (I wanted to anyway). He also said they can get an after market dash front for the radio area. I meant to ask about the HVAC controls but I got side tracked by all the flashing lights on all the new head units. Haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I went back to the car audio store to talk to them about buying/installing a new head unit. I wanted more info on the replacement face plate, I wanted to know if there were provisions for the HVAC controlls or if I was on my own. Come to find out he was mistaken and he didn't have access to an after market panel. It was for the other "G" series vehicles. Has anyone seen one? Or is this a custon thing I'm going to have to make?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok so the fix was ridiculous, I wound up meeting this old school installer. He went right to the trunk and fixed the problem-my gain settings were too high. That was all, after all that a simple fix. Why didn't I think of that!
 

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Ha , that was it , funny .
 
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