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I bought a bunch of tiny connectors from Radio shack that slide right into the connectors slot for each wire. That way you don't have to use the T-Taps.
but to do this you unplugged the factory amp and connected from the other side, or you plugged into the input side where the existing wires are?
 

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I plugged into where the contacts on the male side connect with the female side (the side that would normally go to the stock amp). The wires coming from my aftermarket amp go to these connectors and each one slides into the little slot for each wire on the male plug. This way, you don't need to splice the wires. I'll get the part number when I go home and take a picture of the connector.
 

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Oh, I see, it seems as if you want to keep the stock amp connected? Yeah, I'm not connected to that anymore. I figured you just wanted the inputs.
 

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yeah i think i'll go that route, as many seem to do that. No need for the stock amp/subs with 1000 watts of subwoofer haha.
 

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iv just put in a amp and subs everything comes on and plays but it seems that the subs ony come on when i turn up the the radio about half way and when it plays seems like it dont play all the bass notes???
 

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iv just put in a amp and subs everything comes on and plays but it seems that the subs ony come on when i turn up the the radio about half way and when it plays seems like it dont play all the bass notes???
most subs have a hi/low pass filter, make sure its set on low, this will filter out the highs making it more efficient, but if set on high, its filtering out your lows.
 

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ie got it set to low pass ive had two amps in it and they both have done the same thing m kinda stumped if you pull the amp out and put it in a car with a head unit it works fine i thought about a line driver to boost the rca signal?
 

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all speakers stopped working except for front center one.

so a few days ago..my back rear door speaker started to smoke and then all sound went out...so i did the obvious and checked the fuse in the trunk and replaced it since it was blown...but now nothing working except for the front center speaker...i had aftermarket subs and amps in which i took out today thinking they were causing the problem...but still nothing...HELP ME!! PLEASE!!!
 

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Just finished my Kicker CRV8 install. Whew... I'm too old for that kind of work. I have to say, for the "difference" (very little), I don't think it's worth the amount of work. At least for my old ass. If you're young and into that sorta thing then go for it.
 

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so a few days ago..my back rear door speaker started to smoke and then all sound went out...so i did the obvious and checked the fuse in the trunk and replaced it since it was blown...but now nothing working except for the front center speaker...i had aftermarket subs and amps in which i took out today thinking they were causing the problem...but still nothing...HELP ME!! PLEASE!!!
still could be a fuse, but most likely the speaker blew which is messing up the loop. I blew 1 of 2 10" subs once and it caused neither to work until i removed the blown sub from the system.
 

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Just finished my Kicker CRV8 install. Whew... I'm too old for that kind of work. I have to say, for the "difference" (very little), I don't think it's worth the amount of work. At least for my old ass. If you're young and into that sorta thing then go for it.
Using the stock sub amp on the Kickers? I would agree, in that case, that they would not be worth the effort, but if you would run a dedicated aftermarket sub amp...those 8's would do nicely! Plus you would need to seriously dampen the rear deck because well powered subs make that metal vibrate like nobody's business!!!

I just removed my factory subs to allow more sound into the cabin from my sealed 12"...it is noticeably cleaner sound, and less vibration from the rear deck since the energy is now going into the air of the cabin rather than being used to vibrate metal panels.
 

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Using the stock sub amp on the Kickers? I would agree, in that case, that they would not be worth the effort, but if you would run a dedicated aftermarket sub amp...those 8's would do nicely! Plus you would need to seriously dampen the rear deck because well powered subs make that metal vibrate like nobody's business!!!

I just removed my factory subs to allow more sound into the cabin from my sealed 12"...it is noticeably cleaner sound, and less vibration from the rear deck since the energy is now going into the air of the cabin rather than being used to vibrate metal panels.
No, I ran a Kenwood amp.. 250X2 @ 2 ohms. I can definitely turn it up louder before the woofers distort. Co-worker who's younger than me says it sounds better. I must just be getting old. :(
 

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After a couple more days with the new subs, I am appreciating them much more. Definite improvement over stock.
 

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is there a way to put in a new cd player when installing a system?
There isn't any good way to do it without messing up the heating and air conditioning controls. But the existing head unit is pretty good. Invest your money in upgraded speakers and amplifiers instead.
 

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After a couple more days with the new subs, I am appreciating them much more. Definite improvement over stock.
Yeah, with careful setup of crossovers and gains...it should be substantially better since you are properly amping them...

With free airs 'ya just gotta be easy on them....
 

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have a question about the stock amp....can i not still connect back the stock amp so it runs all stock speakers if am tapping into that connector for the sub?

i want to be able to run the stock amp as well as the sub amp

thanks
 

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To Solrac and all of the contributors to this page, THANK YOU.

I had bought an amp, sub, etc... but putting the photos and wiring diagrams onto my workplace's iPad meant I could go out, read the details (and this page), look at the photos, and have an effortless install. Now that I've turned down the bass for the internal speakers to brighten them up a bit, it's amazing the difference I hear now when I shut the car off (and thus, the amp). Night and day the contribution it makes.

Again, thank you.
 

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Just finished my Kicker CRV8 install. Whew... I'm too old for that kind of work. I have to say, for the "difference" (very little), I don't think it's worth the amount of work. At least for my old ass. If you're young and into that sorta thing then go for it.
I ended up pulling my Kickers back out and putting them into a small ported box. Still not enough oomph. I don't know if it is my amp not keeping up or what, but I hear distortion before i hear any bass. I said heck with it and I ordered an SSA DCON 12" sub that will go into a sealed box. That better give me some bass. The Kickers will have to find a new home.
 

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have a question about the stock amp....can i not still connect back the stock amp so it runs all stock speakers if am tapping into that connector for the sub?

i want to be able to run the stock amp as well as the sub amp

thanks
The amp in the trunk only powers the stock subwoofers. All the other speakers are powered by the head unit.

Yes, you can tap into the sub amp and run the stock subwoofers plus your additional subwoofer all at the same time.
 

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bought my adjustable line out converter today, hooking up my old set up 2 type R 10's in a ported box with a sound streem 880w amp, anyone every thought of looking for a male connector to just plug into the amp wire harness? i like that idea better than cutting the wires and slicing or just useing the spade connector idea.
 
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