[viperguy212]

Hey all,

So currently I'm running polks in the doors off the stock radio and I'm quite tired of having my volume up at 63 and still being able to carry on a conversation in the car lol.

Current setup is: Polk DB561's in doors, 2 - 8" kicker's in rear deck, 2- 12" kickers in the trunk, subs running off an Alpine MRP-500. Yes theres lots of bass and deadener/closed cell foam all around.

I've always been a traditional wire the speakers straight to the amp guy but I hate door jams just as much as the next guy so why not use the factory wiring to my advantage.

-Question comes with these Scosche adapters, which ones are needed? Sticky has the male (VW03B) and female (VW03RB), some threads all I see is the female being used, others have stock outputs dangling? Only using the 8 wires I'm assuming, considering there is about 20 in that harness lol. I'm looking for simple here.

- Also any insight on where to pick up a 8-conductor wire for under $50?

Plan on using a Kenwood KAC7005PS 5-channel amp
- same power/ground/remote wires as current
- same stock amp tapped for LC2i line output

Thanks.

 

[Belo]

if you buy both adapters it allows you to connect one adapter to the stock radio then run the speaker wire to the rear (8 wires) to your amps imput. You then run 8 wires from your amps output back up front and connect it to the other adapter which you can then mate with the stock harness. Essentially you're just installing your amp inline with your normal radio output. I'd suggest speedwire to make it a little cleaner, but it was out of stock when I did mine. You could also put a LOC up front and run composite back instead of speaker wire.

i bought all my stuff from sonicelectronix. I wouldn't use wire nuts either, but it was what I used when I was testing. They work just fine but they're bulky. I later used some heatshrink. The nice thing is that you dont splice any factory wiring and can easily put it back to stock by just unhooking and reconnecting.

btw, you may want to consider components (6501) up front for better vocal sound.

 

[swargolet]

Why are you still using the stock amp? If it is for the 8" kickers in the deck, then I'd say either get a different amp or pull those subs. You really don't need those 8s in there anyways since you have the two 10s. And if you pull the 8s, it will open up the back deck for the bass from the 10s to come into the cabin.

When I did my stereo install I actually used THIS 5-wire speed wire and just did two runs for input and two for output. The overall wire is smaller then so it is easier to work with and I also had 10 individual wires instead of 9 which was necessary given the 5 speaker setup.
What I did was run the stock radio outputs back to my processor using the speed wire. Then I ran the front tweeters, rears, and center back up to the front stock harness using the speed wire and used the factory wiring to each speaker. I ran separate wire to the front woofers due to how much power I was putting to them.
Here's my install album: http://imgur.com/a/9Stjk#0

Picture 7 show how I used the adapters. The wires hanging off are my inputs and outputs and the rest of the ones I dont use just pass right through.

As for the adapters. Here's what I bought:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4442_Scosche-VW03B-VW03.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7401_Scosche-VW03RB-VW03R.html

 

[viperguy212]

Ah ok now it makes sense. So essentially one 8-condutor/adapter simply is for the LOC and the other set is the actual output. With the female being the LOC route and the Male being the amp output.

Now it all clicks lol. I was previously only using the stock amp connection to tap the amps onboard LOC. I guess that would be needed now either.

So parts list looks like:
- new amp
- loc
- 2 8-conductor wire sets
- 2 RCA's
- 2 scosche adapters

 

[Belo]

i think you're getting it. And i'd agree there's no need to use the stock amp or open air subs. However, leaving the stock 8" in powered by the stock amp doesn't really hurt anything either.

also you don't necessarily need a loc if your amp accepts speaker inputs. Mine did, but I found that for some reason it introduced a lot of additional whine so I did end up getting a loc.