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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Like numerous others on this forum I too have a right rear door lock mechanism that will not lock my door. Since I have over 44K miles and out of warranty I took it upon myself to make my car safe and secure. Below are step by step instructions on how to replace the lock mechanism.

First I purchased a RR Door Lock Mechanism from GM Parts Direct, part number 92215254 for $61.11 delivered to my house.

Second, Removed all door fasteners pictured below.

RR Door Panel


After removing the fasteners start from the top and pull the door panel slowly toward you, not upward. The metal retaining clips will stay on the door frame. You will have access to the electrical connector on the left side of the window switch, using your RIGHT HAND reach around the back side toward the door panel and unlatch the connector. Next slowly pull outward on the left side of the door panel, there are three teal colored plastic pins. Next slowly pull the right side of the door panel there are four white colored plastic pins. Do not worry if they stay in the door frame. Remove them and place them in the door panel as shown below. Next remove the cables from the interior door handle by removing them from the plastic slide holders then remove the ball end from the handle itself.




Now peal back the plastic liner shown below.



Now you are ready to remove the lock mechanism. Unlatch the yellow mechanical rod holder shown in the picture.



Next remove the three torx srews pictured here.



Now the lock is floating inside the door frame. Pull it toward you and remove the electrical connector as shown in this picture.



Now you can remove the two cables by twisting the "L" shaped metal tips out of the lock mechanism.

Remove the Lock Mechanism from the door frame. Here it is on the floor.




Now reverse your steps, place the new lock mechanism in the door frame and connect the cables and electrical connector making sure the rod hanging down is pulled forward, do not trap the rod behind the lock mechanism. Next replace the three large torx screws then snap the rod back into the yellow clip. Place the cables back through the plastic liner hole and reseal the plastic liner. Next hold the door panel up to the frame and reattach the two cables and using your RIGHT HAND snap the window switch connector back into place. Line up the top of the door panel and slowly push the panel onto the metal connectors on the door frame. Line up the plastic connectors on the left side first then tap into place then do the right side. Replace all the fasteners and you are done.

This totally fixed my problem. I can now actually lock and unlock the door manually by using the lever on the door, I could never do that before. And now the door actually locks with the key remote. Pure success for around $60.

Please let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Since this went so well I am in the process of ordering the lock mechanism for the driver's door. I am only having intermittent problems with this one, nothing at all like the RR door. But I might as well fix this one too, while I'm at it.
 

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Nice. I am hoping gm will come though with a free fix, otherwise i'll have to tear into the doors too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just placed an order with my dealer for the driver's door lock mechanism. The price ended up being only $0.72 higher than GM Parts Direct price. Part number 92215257 for 28.71 + tax. I should have it tomorrow. The swap out should be pretty close to the RR door procedure, if not I will let everyone know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That was quick, it only took me around 20 minutes to swap out the drivers door lock mechanism. The only difference when compared to the RR door unit is no window switch connector to deal with and one extra hanging rod attached to the lock mechanism. Other than that pretty much the same process as described above. Now all my locks are operating as they should with no issues. Total cost for both was $91.00.
 

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Very nice write-up. Hopefully, one of the moderators will apply a sticky to this eventually or move it to the Technical Articles and DIY section.
 

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Good to hear this is a known issue and not just mine. I too had sporadic locking issues but in addition I had a clunking sound when driving over bumps. Had the dealer replace under warranty but it still does it from time to time. It's functioning though.....
 

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Anyone know the part numbers for all the lock actuators? Might be nice to have them in this thread. I am currently looking for the part number for the RL Actuator (Rear door behind the driver.)

Taking a guess is it: (Determined when sitting in car facing forward)

92215254 - RR Actuator
92215255 - RL Actuator
92215256 - FR Actuator
92215257 - FL Actuator
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I would call your local dealer. I just checked GM Parts Direct and they do not list the GM part number until you formally inquire before purchase.
 

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Anyone know the part numbers for all the lock actuators? Might be nice to have them in this thread. I am currently looking for the part number for the RL Actuator (Rear door behind the driver.)

Taking a guess is it: (Determined when sitting in car facing forward)

92215254 - RR Actuator
92215255 - RL Actuator
92215256 - FR Actuator
92215257 - FL Actuator
Yeap, those are the correct numbers per shopgmparts.
 

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When these go bad do the blow the 25A fuse at all?
 

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Great find tim4558 and very convenient timing for me as my rear driver side door lock is going bad. I believe replaced that exact lock about 5 years ago for pretty cheap and now I see they're $120! Glad you were able to identify the motor that goes in the mechanism and its so cheap.
 

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Trust me, took some perseverance to find !
I did find one small issue I didn't notice when first installed, motor runs backwards, when press lock, door unlocks and when press unlock second time door locks. Being a DC motor it is no big issue to swap the 2 wires that run it. So I have to pull panel off again this weekend and figure out or find wiring diagram to see what 2 wires go to it and power motor, then swap them. I was just too excited it worked and didn't notice what button on remote I was pushing as to what was really happening. Sigh.
Removal - take side of motor that is on outside edge of latch assembly and use a pick to roll outside edge up 1/4 turn, it will now snap out without having to drill rivet that holds plastic wedge to keep motor in place.
New motor snaps right down in and rotate flat and with 2 small connectors in white plastic base plate of motor facing up.
To take the gear off(measure shaft sticking out past gear, mine was 0.078 with my calipers) place motor in vice and using wire cutters or needle nose pliers, wedge pliers between vice and gear and pry gear up and off, moving motor height if needed till gear is off. May slightly damage gear teeth, so I made sure same side went towards motor.
next time I might try small butane torch on gear to see if it comes off easier, I got 8 of them so I am good for years to come !
To install took a 1/2" sq aluminum stock about 2 inches long, drilled a small hole in one end of it, placed motor on flat solid surface as shaft runs all the way through and gently tap gear on shaft and use alum stock with hole for shaft to set gear into place so that same shaft length sticking out is reached.
 
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