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My noise is pretty loud its not faint at idle and it sounds like its coming straight through the center of the dash LOL But yes, its normal.....
 

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Very good job doing it yourself.You need to get the rotofab and some headers, which I'm guessing you already know, for some more HP! yea buddy!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
My noise is pretty loud its not faint at idle and it sounds like its coming straight through the center of the dash LOL But yes, its normal.....
Bingo......the growl noise does seem like it's coming throught the center of the dash. In any case, in speaking with a few owners, installers, and the manufacturer, this seems to be quite normal.

Oh well, so much for the gazillions of dollars the OEM put into minimizing NVH. Heck, even under the engine cover was another cover with insulation over the "fingers" on the intake manifold. Now I'll glady take the extra 100+ rwhp (soon to be 140+ rwhp) over a few less than favorable sounds.
 

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Could someone post a video of said growl? You knew someone was going to ask.

:judge:
 

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DINSTAAR
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Nice work, looks good. You didn't waist time putting on a supercharger. Thats one of the many reasons why I didn't get a G8 GT because it would have a Maggie too.
 

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I purchased a Maggie/TVS from one of the site sponsors (Haddad Motorsports) in mid-May. I set aside a weekend and knocked the install out. Had the car towed to a local tuner and tuned on a Monday. I spent roughly 2 hrs on Friday, 10 hrs on Saturday and 6 hrs on Sunday. Granted, I was not working on it the entirety of this time, but I guess had I not taken breaks for eating, etc., I could have knocked it out in about 15 hours. I think if I had to install again (after the first experience on my car), it would take roughly 10 hours. There are several things you learn once you get into the install that took significantly longer than they would take a second time once you realize what actions you need to take to complete the step. I didn't think the install was bad at all. The toughest part was 1) breaking the crank pulley bolt loose and 2) accessing a couple of the bolts which secure the blower/IC housing to the heads. A couple of those suckers are tricky (especially the rear passenger bolt...that was a PITA). Other than that, the install was straight-forward and the instructions Magnacharger put together were great (some things I would change slightly, but that is nit-picking.....check out directions from other aftermarket SC kits, etc....the Maggie directions are very detailed and have pictures).

I'm used to doing turbocharger kits though. I had a couple of MKIV supras (one which I purchased a turbo, IC core and header and fabricated the rest of the turbo kit) and a 4v mustang cobra I turbocharged as well.

This SC kit is very straight-forward and the directions help a lot. I don't think I would recommend it for someone who has never turned a wrench, but for anyone who has some mechanical aptitude I think you'll be fine as long as you have the tools to do the job.
 

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Could someone post a video of said growl? You knew someone was going to ask.

:judge:

Good luck capturing the "growl" on audio. In my opinion, it is too quiet and too low in the frequency range to capture it on audio. It is audible. However, had the G8 come supercharged from the factory (such as a Firehawk from SLP), I don't think I would have ever really noticed it. I did notice it right away once I installed the blower. It's only audible at idle. It sounds like a grumbling, curdling, very low frequency sound. Once you get out of vac into positive pressure, you this "growl" turns into a quiet roar (it is really quiet compared to older maggies and PD blowers...especially a screw...those things are very high-pitched whiners).
 

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DINSTAAR
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That grow seems to be normal. I've read over on the Corvette forum that some ZR1 guys are hearing a certain noise coming from the supercharger.
 

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400rwhp? Wouldnt a cam have been cheaper!?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
400rwhp? Wouldnt a cam have been cheaper!?
I see 440 rwhp in my future......a 3.00" pulley is on it's way :) Yes it was expensive, but I'm happy I didn't have to "open the motor". The other path to get 440 rwhp would have led to a car that had relatively poor manners compared to my silky smooth, quiet Magnacharger. I still can't believe the power that's gained from a "full exhaust" and cam on these GM LSx motor, it boggles my mind!
 

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Now it's a Party
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Very nice!
 

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Hey Dan, congrats on the install, and for making me want one even more than I did before I read this thread. Hopefully I'll be able to cross paths with you in the near future to let you take me for a ride as your setup will be much closer to where I will be than what Nate has (for now ;)). I guess I have another 8 to watch out for now...
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well, my 2 year old helped me swap to a 3" pulley.....yeah, it was that easy! I flashed in a revised tune, but I have yet to fine tune the calibration and "run it on the Dynojet".

I did take the time to install a Dynojet Wide Band 2 kit in order to keep an eye on the AFR's. I don't have a pod for the gauge yet, but I'm running the 0-5v output to my HP Tuner's MPVI Pro device to log the wide band AFR info right along side the OBD2 data. I don't have pics (right at the moment) of how I routed the wide band cable underneath the car, but there is a small "knockout panel" under the driver's seat, so I knocked a .25" hole through it, and ran the cable into the passenger compartment. The Dynojet WB2 control module is mounted to the metal brace in the driver's side kick panel.....easy!

I also took the time to install a Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump while I was at it. Turns out the fuel pump power wire originates in the trunk near the battery at the rear fuse panel (green with orange stripe). It runs through the car and into the driver's side kick panel and into that fuse panel. At this point, the power is routed through a relay, and the output wire to the pump is a solid gray wire, probably a 12-14 gauge wire. This wire is easily accessible underneath the driver's side door sill panel, and that's where I intercepted the fuel pump power with the KB BAP. I mounted the BAP right up above the WB2, and I used 3M Dual Lock to secure it to the sheet metal . I ran the hobbs switch wires through a 1x1.25" grommet in the fire wire (OEM, I didn't drill), and then out to the hobbs switch in the engine bay. The BAP voltage controller is also 3M Dual Locked to the bottom side of the panel above my feet (near OBD2 port).

I'll have some more details and dyno results soon!





 

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Discussion Starter #36
Oh, and check this out.......or wrap your brain around it. When the car is in "decel fuel cut", the Maggie growl noise goes away (18.1:1 AFR). Just as soon as the "decel fuel cut" goes away, and AFR returns to 14.7:1, the noise returns. At light loads and at idle, the noise is there.........hell if I know what it is :)
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Here are the pics / notes from the Dynojet WB2 install. I chose to use the driver’s side downstream o2 bung for the location of the wide band sensor, and of course this required that I remove the OEM downstream o2 sensor. If you chose to do this, you’ll also need to reflash your ECM in order to avoid any trouble codes.

Here’s pic of the wide band sensor location.



Since the factory sensor is removed, you can use the same location to mount the wide band connector on the side of the transmission. There is an integrated “push dart” on the side of the connector, and you can simply push that into the hole on the side of the trans case.



I then ran the wide band sensor harness behind the factory heat shield, and the routed it through a hole in the frame rail.





After you fish the harness through the frame rail, you can then route it back through a hole to get it near the location where it will pass through the floor board. There is a small “knock out plate” in the floor board, and drilled a .25” hole into that plate. Note: before you drill a hole, make sure you pull the door sill panel off and pull up the carpet. There is also a large gauge power wire in that area as well, so I would advise moving that as well while you drill the hole.





You can then snake the harness under the carpet and over behind the kick panel on the driver’s side.



I then wired in the sensor wires from the harness into the Wide Band 2 control module (6 wires).



After I secured the Wide Band 2 control module to the metal rail / bracket, I was able to run the ground to a lug at the firewall, and then sourced key on power at the fuse box.






I’m still searching for a gauge pod at the moment, so until then I just using the 0-5v output from the WB2 to pipe data over to my HP Tuner’s MPVI Pro device. The AFR on the street is tracking exactly to what we were seeing on the dyno……….nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
While I'm at it, I figured I post up the results of the 3.0" pulley that I bolted onto the TVS 1900. Temps were still a bit of an issue, resulting in a timing reduction of 1-3 degrees, but I'll proably run it again once it cools off in Vegas. This is still with 91 octane, a total of 11-13 degrees of timing, and boost climbs from 6-7 and ends up at 8.3 psi.



Here's a graph that shows the car completely stock vs. Magnacharger TVS 1900 with 3.0" pulley. ** remember, the car is still otherwise stock with the exception of the Maggie.

 

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Discussion Starter #39
Oh, and check this out.......or wrap your brain around it. When the car is in "decel fuel cut", the Maggie growl noise goes away (18.1:1 AFR). Just as soon as the "decel fuel cut" goes away, and AFR returns to 14.7:1, the noise returns. At light loads and at idle, the noise is there.........hell if I know what it is :)
Well, the growl is fixed!! I am so happy, and so is my wife, as now the Magnacharged G8 is almost whisper quiet, besides the "cool guy blower whine" when you get into it.

Here is what I found............I came home from work one day and grabbed my mechanics stethoscope and started poking around under the hood. I checked all the points on the blower where I though the noise could eminate from, like the bearings on the rear pulleys, or blower case, etc etc. I then stuck the stethoscope on the fuel rail........BINGO.........there's the noise. I followed the fuel rail over the fuel block, and then from the fuel block to the OEM fuel. The OEM fuel line was resonating as well (I could actually feel it with my hand!), and I was like, "I'll be damned". The OEM fuel line between the fuel block and the fire wall consists of a quick coupler-to plastic line - to quick coupler, and then a steel line that snakes down behind the firewall banket. Originally I thought to split a piece of hose, and push it over the OEM steel fuel line, and attempt to snake that down behind the blanket. The idea here was to use the rubber hose to isolate, or dampen the pulses / resonance that I was hearing / feeling. Well, that didn't work, as it was impossible to push the rubber hose over the OEM line that resides behind the blanket.

I shared my findings with Magnacharger, and we came to the conclusion that I was experiencing a "water hammer effect". When the injectors are opening and closing, the constant pressure drop / refill / pressure drop refill causes a frequency to generate within the rails. On some applications, a "dynamic fuel pulse dampener" is recommended to "zero out" the potentially harmful frequency. Being the cool guys that they are, the boys at Magnacharger had something for me to try. Basically I was going to use a C5 fuel block that utilized the OEM "fuel pulse dampener", and attempt to graft that onto to my G8 fuel supply components. There were a few fitment issues, but since this was more of a proof of concept, or validation, I was up for the challenge. I had to make a few mods, but the results are worth the effort. The fuel rails, fuel block, and fuel line are now very stable, I can no longer feel the nasty pulse / resonance, and more importantly, there's no "GROWL" in the cab. My wife is now happy......and so am I!

Here is what the dampener looks like:

http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/product.asp?ProdID=1196

Apparently GM, and many others, use this when the fuel system requires it. Quite frankly, I'm surprised this device is not required on ALL mechanical returnless fuel systems.

Here are some shots of the fuel block with pulse dampener:

 

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Any more updates? Got video of the idleing or WOT in the cabin?

Looks good. How difficult was it to take off the bumper and did you break any push pins?

Mr.B
 
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