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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for ideas here.

Recently I started getting a clunk out of the drivers side front going over bumps. Upon inspection it was pretty clear the bushing had collapsed again, bumper was raised much higher over the fender than the passenger side.

I decided to take this opportunity to upgrade the struts all the way around. Ordered the FE3 kit from Pace, and the BMR bushings and bearings from Maryland. I had a local shop put it all on and do an alignment this past Friday. When I picked it up, the mechanic did mention that he heard a creaking out of the front left; he put it back up on the rack and took the strut all the way out and looked it over, and put it back. I did hear the creaking when I left in their parking lot, but haven't heard it since. I'm not particularly worried about that.

Going over bumps at lower speeds, <25 or so, there is a hollow clunk, as though something is loose. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel, I can only hear it. It's very similar to the sound I had when the bushing was collapsed, although now it seems like it is from both sides, but I'm not 100% on that.

The bearings seem okay; I had a friend turn the steering wheel while I had my hand on the top of the strut, and it was smooth on both sides.

There's no play in the tire, either left to right, or top to bottom, that might indicate that the LCA or something was loose. I've also inspected the sway bar bushings and they look fine.

The spring stops, on the top, are roughly 90 degrees to the left , when facing the strut head on from the side of the car.(driver side, it as forward on the car as it could be, passenger side is as far to the rear, if that makes sense). I've seen some diagrams where it is roughly 40 degrees to the right.
Code:
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REAR                           FRONT
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Any ideas for things I could check would be greatly appreciated. If I run out of ideas, I'll probably take it to the dealer and see if they have any thoughts.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How would I check those?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks...youtube is blocked here at work so I'll check it out tonight.
 

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Basically, you would get the cars front wheels off the ground and check for lateral movement.

This is the most common failure with the G8's suspension.
Check at Pace Performance for the kit (4 arms and bolts required).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've tried that recently, but not since the new struts have gone on. Do I need to have both sides off the ground at the same time? I wouldn't think so but just in case.
 

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I still have a cluck, but my lower control arms are not like the video. They seem tight. Also just upgraded to F3 stuts. Sway bar end-links seem okay also. So what could my problem be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the driver side off yesterday and it did not move like that. I will check the passenger side tomorrow after work.

madmax, maybe you and I have the same problem....I'll be sure to let you know if I figure mine out :)
 

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I had the driver side off yesterday and it did not move like that. I will check the passenger side tomorrow after work.

madmax, maybe you and I have the same problem....I'll be sure to let you know if I figure mine out :)

And I will do the same for you!
 

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Check the end links to see if the bolts backed off. I had a similar issue causing a popping sound and found my end link bolts loose. And take apart the sway bar bushing and grease the hell out if it with synthetic grease to get rid of any creaking. Good luck.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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I would also try to rule out a caliper issue. Does the noise go away if you ride the brakes as you go over bumps? If so, you may have a brake related issue instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There's no lateral movement in the wheel to indicate an issue with the LCA ball joints. I also inspected the ball joint boots and they are all intact. Calipers are also solid. Sway bar link is also solid.

Is there something during the assembly of the struts that could have been done incorrectly that would cause problems?

I tried checking the bolts that hold the strut assembly in, inside the hood, thinking maybe they didn't tighten them enough, but the piston(with the thread) just rotates with the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was looking at the BMR site, and I don't remember seeing the displayed brass-looking washer when I got the bushings.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.cfm?page=products&productid=481


the only other thing in the box was the tall cylindrical washer that I believe inserted into the top of the bushing...could that brass washer have been reused from the existing bushings? Can someone who got the BMR bushings comment on if they got that brass washer?
 

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The only thing I can add is the front coils springs need to be clocked on the strut. I gonna look at mine to remember the details. Or do a search, it was covered here in the forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm pretty sure I can feel the W notch in the top plate in the correct position, but would definitely appreciate finding out if it's all in the same place or not, thanks.
 

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The washer that come with the bushing goes on the bottom of the bushing, cupped edge facing down. You re-use the stock washer on top.
On the link, go to the bottom of the page for the installation instruction.
They have a drawing of the order of assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Today I pulled the passenger side strut out and dissassembled. As soon as I pulled the bushing off ball bearings started falling out. It's pretty clear(to me at least), that the bearing was forced into the bushing and not seated correctly.

 
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