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Dos Pupusas
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys,
Question, are these L76 motors known to drop valves?
I'm installing ARP head studs on the engine and I was wondering if it would be a good idea to replace the springs. Ultimately, I'll be turbocharging the stock engine (I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible). I figured since I have the valve covers off I would upgrade the springs. Although, I'm keeping the stock rev limiter, whatever that might be (6K RPM I think?).
If they are not known for dropping valves I'll more than likely leave them alone. The engine only has 40k after all.
Thanks!!
 

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The weak point of these engines when it comes to spinning higher RPMs are the lifters. I have heard of way more lifter failures than spring failures. Actually I havent heard of any spring failures. But thats just me.
 

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If you're interested I have a set of used dual springs that I was gonna throw up for sale.
 

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Dos Pupusas
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The weak point of these engines when it comes to spinning higher RPMs are the lifters. I have heard of way more lifter failures than spring failures. Actually I havent heard of any spring failures. But thats just me.
Noted.

If you're interested I have a set of used dual springs that I was gonna throw up for sale.
PM'd
 

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Are you going with a bigger cam, and or going to be revving the engine a bit higher than the factory redline? If so, I yes. While the factory springs typically never fail, they can only handle the small lift and I wouldn't push the RPMs much higher than stock with them.
 

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Just remember that how ever much amount of boost you have takes that much away from your seat pressure on the valve springs. 20lbs of boost takes an additional 20lbs of seat pressure compared to a n/a build.
So yes, upgrade the springs.
 

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OP,
I am upgrading the rocker arm trunion bearings, went to dual valve springs, forged push rods, and ARP bolts for my TT build........ I would recommend them all to you as well even thought I have the LS3 compared to the L76. If you plan on adding a cam I would also recommend replacing the lifters.......just my .02
 

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correction

Just remember that how ever much amount of boost you have takes that much away from your seat pressure on the valve springs. 20lbs of boost takes an additional 20lbs of seat pressure compared to a n/a build.
So yes, upgrade the springs.
Actually since the intake valve has an area of 3.68 sq in, you multiply that by 20 psi to get a force of 73.6 lbs.
 

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Dos Pupusas
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are you going with a bigger cam, and or going to be revving the engine a bit higher than the factory redline? If so, I yes. While the factory springs typically never fail, they can only handle the small lift and I wouldn't push the RPMs much higher than stock with them.
The engine is staying stock until I decide to upgrade. Once I upgrade, most of the internal components will be changed with forged and aftermarket stuff.

Just remember that how ever much amount of boost you have takes that much away from your seat pressure on the valve springs. 20lbs of boost takes an additional 20lbs of seat pressure compared to a n/a build.
So yes, upgrade the springs.
Noted.

OP,
I am upgrading the rocker arm trunion bearings, went to dual valve springs, forged push rods, and ARP bolts for my TT build........ I would recommend them all to you as well even thought I have the LS3 compared to the L76. If you plan on adding a cam I would also recommend replacing the lifters.......just my .02
Gotcha.
I might just do that.
 

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