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Discussion Starter #41
Hey Dylan,

Can I use the waterless wash as a clay lubricant? I think I read somewhere that I could, but I just want to make sure.
I don't recommend it as its is substantially more 'slippery' than detail spray... lubrication is good (I think we can all agree on that :D ) but there is such a thing as TOO MUCH lubrication when using a claybar. You need the clay to slide, but if you over lubricate it can't grab and sheer the surface contaminants that are bonded to the paint.

Please explain how the Swirl and Haze Remover & the Fine Machine Polish work to remove swirls. Am I safe to assume they take a small layer out of the clear coat to 'level' the paint? How often should each product be used? Very apprehensive to do anything 'potentially' damaging to a fairly new vehicle.
Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) and Fine Machine Polish (FMP) work in the same way any other 2 stage system works. They round off the edges of swirls, which are really nothing more than small scratches, and level the surface of the paint to a point where they no longer reflect light at an opposing angle to the surround surfaces making them invisible to the human eye. Stage one is more aggressive with an aggressive pad and polish, stage 2 cleans up whats left behind by stage one using a finer polish and finer pad. Once the original correction is done you'll more frequently use the fine setup b/c you'll be staying on top of things the more aggressive process won't be needed.

Basically thats a fancy way of saying YES... they remove a microscopic level of clear coat. So little that you would literally need to polish hundreds and hundreds of times even on the thinnest factory clear before you'd ever begin to be in the realm of concern about going thru your clear coat.

I have a writeup burried somewhere that I can dig up to illustrate how often you'd have to polish and for how long to be worried... lets just say unless you plan to detail every day from now until the end of your life its probably not something to worry about.

That being said you won't be correcting your paint more than a couple times a year anyways. This isn't like an every weekend type process... at most people will usually be between 3-5 corrections per year. The rest of your detailing routine needs to be tweaked to minimize the introduction of new swirls and even then you'll likely only use FMP and the white pad for the removal of fine swirls and light defects.

If you want to discuss it in anymore depth feel free to shoot me an email: [email protected]
 

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Good info!
 

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Can the Porter-Cable 7424XP polisher be used on the softer parts of the car (front fascia and rear bumper), as well as the other areas over metal? Any special tricks to these areas?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Yes. Anything thats painted is fair game for the PC, there are people out there that will tell you not to polish over plastic bumpers... they're usually the ones using excessive pressure when polishing. If you're using the machine correctly theres no reason you can't polish a painted plastic bumper.... heck my TBSS was all plastic on the front and back and I polished it all the time. Most newer cars and trucks are all plastic around the front and back ends.

The only issue in areas like this becomes fitting the pad squarely onto the surface, often bumpers have odd contours, and small areas the pads won't fit, but for those areas you can just generally do by hand or swap over to our 4" pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Towards the bottom of the first page of checkout, just below the recommended accessories, but above the order comments in the box that says 'coupon or gift card'

After you enter the code click 'update cart' to apply the discount.
 

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I'm buying lotsa stuff... can I enter "G8" twice for 20%? :)
 

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...or you could just wait for a group buy... ;)
yes... or... group buy with Memorial Day bonus special discount! I'm ready to buy. I need PC, bucket, dolly... kit... things..stuff :)
 

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amazing dylan! i will be making a purchase very soon! i noticed in the video with the ferrari, you were talking about removing bugs..is a bug and tar remover too aggressive or just not recommended?
what if i've been a little negligent in washing the car with some caked on stuff from a cross-country drive- do the same rules apply?

and on the polished rims- do you recommend one of those drills with the pad and rim paste or just the all purpose cleaner and some elbow grease.

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Its not that you can't use a bug and tar remover, its just that they are often VERY aggressive petroleum based products that can stain, discolor, or strip a finish. Stoners Bug & Tar Remover for example is great at getting bugs off, but if you happen to get it on the fake chrome area of a newer car (the nostrils of the G8 for example or the centerbar on a chevy truck) it will discolor it pretty badly. I've also seen it stain textured plastics, etc.

Its more of a "use with extreme caution" product. We choose not to offer one b/c we never want to put a product in the hands of customers that has the potential for doing damage. Personally I use our APC as a pretreatment to dissolve bugs and then follow immediately with washing. As long as you have a decent coat of wax or sealant there there is no reason to need anything more aggressive to remove them.

As for 'polished rims' are we talking factory polished or aftermarket polished? Factory often has a clear coat finish so you would treat it in the same manner as the rest of your paint. If they are aftermarket polished (like billet wheels) then you'd use a metal polish.

For cleaning you'd want our Green Wheel Cleaner and Boars Hair Wheel Brush.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Cool Chris, let me know if you have any questions. A lot of have things have changed since I originally did this writeup, but the concept remains the same.

I'll be updating it soon with the new products and a couple of added things.
 

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so many vids... ill have to set aside some time to watch all of them on adamspolishes. something about seeing other peoples techniques does more for me than just reading advice
 

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Going to be using a 7424 this weekend on my wife's Accord. Hackjob polishing pre-delivery has left the paint pretty swirled.

This'll be my first time, so I'm planning on using a moderate-mild swirl remover polish with an orange light cutting pad. First I'll need to finish claying the car, as I've only hit the hood and front fenders. Compared to the G8, that car should be quick - but probably considerably worse off in terms of embedded nastiness. 85,000 miles on a 2005. That poor car saw a lot of use.

EDIT: Dylan, I would like to ask - do you have any experience with G8s? If so, can you let us know how soft the paint is on our cars, based on a rough estimation?
 

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Orange pads (at least for most brands) are never finishing pads, so after correcting with the orange you might want to step down and refine the finish a bit with a lighter cut pad, like a white.
Right, just trying to fix those horrible swirls before I move to the pre-wax cleanser on a white polishing pad. I also have black finishing pads, but I'm not going for a Concours finish - though I probably could just for practice.

Any insight on G8 paint hardness?
 
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