Not necessarily... a lot depends on the air quality in your area.Ever notice how rain water will not spot on a clean car?
Did you have them chromed? Stock GXP wheels are clear coated. Need to treat them just like paint. I don't think chrome cleaner will work too good.Hey Adam, my GXP's chrome wheels are becoming a second job for me. I use typical chrome (creamy) polish and it looks only modestly better than when I started, and lasts only a few days if the weather is good. Still doesn't have that high polished chrome shine I saw when they were newer. Any advise for me on this?
Fabric softener works by remaining in the material, so that's the problem for microfiber. It stays in the cloth and will then tend to come out on your car. So what's great for making something *feel* soft on your skin isn't great for making it actually *be* soft on your car.Fabric softer is not recommended for microfiber. Messes with the threads somehow.
If it's not coming out on your car, you're likely fine. It may reduce the towel's ability to pick up product when you're buffing, but that should be it. Also, to the best of my knowledge, it won't improve the towel's action on the car.Not to say I wash them regularly but haven't had an issue with either . I'll probably stop though
No, but honestly with VERY few exceptions all 'modern engine bays' - anything manufactured after about 1990 is going to be water tight from the factory. As always theres exceptions to every rule, but the G8 is one of those cars that falls on the side of 'norm'.Was your lesson on doing a motor G8 specific ?
You can always cover anything you think might be a concern, but I've never had an issue with caps. My rule is generally just to cover open element filters and any AFTERMARKET additions to wiring (lights, stereo, etc) as you can't always be sure those are water tight unless you're intimately familiar with the car and the mods.If not I'd add to cover your distributer cap and watching ths fire retardant that is on the upper half of the hood . Get it to wet and it will sag.
Of course, you can always use a pressure washer if you'd prefer, but this writeup was more 'best practices' than anything else. Don't want anyone who is new to this grab their 2600 PSI pw and put it on stream to clean the engine.also I have done so many motors over the last twelve years and never had a problem with pressure washers .I do feel they are unnecessary and a hose is good .
Yes, always a concern with older cars. My cutoff based on experience is the edge of 'computerization' which is about 1995 and earlier. Prior to that OEM was still trying to or still working on getting wire harnesses and PCM's water tight.Plus on an older model vehicle would I be worried about wires and loose items under the hood.
The slip comes most commonly from silicone based sprays. They stick to belts and dust/dirt sticks to it... this leads to squeals, squeaks, and other issues. If using a spray dressing (or any dressing for that matter) avoid products heavy on silicone.I've also never ever had a belt slip or have I ever heard of a belt slip due to a dressing . I'd say that's luck but can't even start to count the amount of engines I've done . From lambos to beaters and never a problem. So that statement surprises me .
A good way to go if you're not 100% sure about the 'watertight-ness' of your engine bay is to start cleaning with engine running at idle. As you spray (lightly) if you happen to notice any stumble, skip, or issue - STOP SPRAYING and you have your answer.There was only one time in my life where I've had an issue and I was a rookie and forgot to cover a distributer cap .
Long story short - clogs up the fibers.Oh and what will fabric softener do to your towels . I sometimes throw one in with my micro fiber towels with no issue .
The reason you haven't had an issue with caps is because you have the car running . I would not recommend to anyone to try and detail there car with it running for safety concerns. Its hard to clean a motor well with belts moving at high speed or the motor getting to hot and risk burning yourself . As for the fire retardant liner,it gets wet and it gets heavy . A newer car such as ours to get damp or kindakinda wet is ok. But if someone tried to soak it,it will sag. On older car models that shows heavy wear and flaking I'd avoid. Do agree with the stereo wires and so on.No, but honestly with VERY few exceptions all 'modern engine bays' - anything manufactured after about 1990 is going to be water tight from the factory. As always theres exceptions to every rule, but the G8 is one of those cars that falls on the side of 'norm'. /QUOTE]
Can agree with most of this . most modem cars are fine with no worries. The only thing that I still have to advise on is be aware of a distributor cap and yes any other after market items such as car alarm horns . Most new cars after mid to late 90s have there caps covered . Agree with you that there are exceptions and with that said . A few months ago I did a car with the cap exposed. I don't remember the make but it was an 06 or 07.
[QUOTE You can always cover anything you think might be a concern, but I've never had an issue with caps. My rule is generally just to cover open element filters and any AFTERMARKET additions to wiring (lights, stereo, etc) as you can't always be sure those are water tight unless you're intimately familiar with the car and the mods.
The hood liner can get wet without sagging, the bigger issue is to not scrub it.
The slip comes most commonly from silicone based sprays. Th stick to belts and dust/dirt sticks to it... this leads to squeals, squeaks, and other issues. If using a spray dressing (or any dressing for that matter) avoid products heavy on silicone. /QUOTE]
Now you may have me on this . The first place I detailed for did not have a body shop on premises and can't remember if there product was silicone free. Its a major detail business and in those five years there ,I never had a problem . The place I'm at now is defenitely silicone free . But even at the used car dealer I worked at also for a good five years and no issues . Its something I've never had been warned of and again no issues. As for the towels. Just never knew it could hinder its effectiveness of removing wax . Will just wash from now on . I learned long ago not to wash other towels with your micro fiber cause it absorbs the chemicals and will be heavier and will smear . So if that can happen I can see the fabric softener doing something too. I still gotta say that my micro fiber towels are great but ehhh,just to be safe I'll stop . Oh and on a note. It's not just the distributor cap itself but the plug wires that lead to the motor block . If there are plugs on the top half of the motor,I think Oldsmobile or Buick used to have the plugs that go into the top of the block .the plug wires are in a spot where water can sit and flood the motor. This can go to your comment"you can always cover anything that maybe a concern " I can agree with that .