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As far as I understood from other posts, it's kind of thin.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Ever notice how rain water will not spot on a clean car?
Not necessarily... a lot depends on the air quality in your area.

I can place a white piece of paper out my window here in Cali on a rainy day and it comes back dirty... the air quality being so low. Do the same experiment in somewhere like Colorado and you don't have that problem.

The rain drops collect pollutants on their way down. Dirty air = dirty water = water spots and/or acid rain.
 

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Love a Good Wash n Wax

Brand new to the site...loving it...must say that I spent 4 hours today washing and waxing my 08 GT...something about it is almost theraputic!!
 

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Hey Adam, my GXP's chrome wheels are becoming a second job for me. I use typical chrome (creamy) polish and it looks only modestly better than when I started, and lasts only a few days if the weather is good. Still doesn't have that high polished chrome shine I saw when they were newer. Any advise for me on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Got any pictures of their current condition you can share?

Chrome can be a real nightmare to restore once it starts to go south... if you were to try stuff from us I'd start with our 2 stage metal polishing process, follow that up with an application of our Quick Sealant to keep them protected.

Depending on what condition they're in now its hard to say if you can get them back to 'like new' condition again, but that would certainly net you a substantial improvement and longer lasting results.
 

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Hey Adam, my GXP's chrome wheels are becoming a second job for me. I use typical chrome (creamy) polish and it looks only modestly better than when I started, and lasts only a few days if the weather is good. Still doesn't have that high polished chrome shine I saw when they were newer. Any advise for me on this?
Did you have them chromed? Stock GXP wheels are clear coated. Need to treat them just like paint. I don't think chrome cleaner will work too good.
If they have been chromed, Dylan's ideas will probably work.
 

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OK, egg on my face. They are stock wheels. Boy they sure do look chromey don't they? Just finished using a regular paint blemish removal product and it's better but was wondering what other GXP'ers are doing to take care of these wheels.
 

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If they are badly swirled, you would have to polish them just like the paint. You could wash and clay them, then try SHR and FMP. Then use a sealant (the new spray would work) and some Americana.
I'm having the dealer refinish mine because the clear coat is peeling. If that don't work then I will probably have them chromed.
 

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Was your lesson on doing a motor G8 specific ? If not I'd add to cover your distributer cap and watching ths fire retardant that is on the upper half of the hood . Get it to wet and it will sag.also I have done so many motors over the last twelve years and never had a problem with pressure washers .I do feel they are unnecessary and a hose is good . Plus on an older model vehicle would I be worried about wires and loose items under the hood. I've also never ever had a belt slip or have I ever heard of a belt slip due to a dressing . I'd say that's luck but can't even start to count the amount of engines I've done . From lambos to beaters and never a problem. So that statement surprises me . There was only one time in my life where I've had an issue and I was a rookie and forgot to cover a distributer cap . Oh and what will fabric softener do to your towels . I sometimes throw one in with my micro fiber towels with no issue .
 

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Fabric softer is not recommended for microfiber. Messes with the threads somehow.
 

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Fabric softer is not recommended for microfiber. Messes with the threads somehow.
Fabric softener works by remaining in the material, so that's the problem for microfiber. It stays in the cloth and will then tend to come out on your car. So what's great for making something *feel* soft on your skin isn't great for making it actually *be* soft on your car.

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Not to say I wash them regularly but haven't had an issue with either . I'll probably stop though
 

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Not to say I wash them regularly but haven't had an issue with either . I'll probably stop though
If it's not coming out on your car, you're likely fine. It may reduce the towel's ability to pick up product when you're buffing, but that should be it. Also, to the best of my knowledge, it won't improve the towel's action on the car.

But if you are worried about the softness of your towels, try the CD test. Rub the towel on the underside of an old CD you no longer care about. If it doesn't scratch, you're golden.

EDIT: Yup, they coat the fibers. As always, Wikipedia has a good read.

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Hmm . Nah it wasn't about making my micro fiber softer .just static cling lol. I'll stop . thanks for info.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Was your lesson on doing a motor G8 specific ?
No, but honestly with VERY few exceptions all 'modern engine bays' - anything manufactured after about 1990 is going to be water tight from the factory. As always theres exceptions to every rule, but the G8 is one of those cars that falls on the side of 'norm'.


If not I'd add to cover your distributer cap and watching ths fire retardant that is on the upper half of the hood . Get it to wet and it will sag.
You can always cover anything you think might be a concern, but I've never had an issue with caps. My rule is generally just to cover open element filters and any AFTERMARKET additions to wiring (lights, stereo, etc) as you can't always be sure those are water tight unless you're intimately familiar with the car and the mods.

The hood liner can get wet without sagging, the bigger issue is to not scrub it.


also I have done so many motors over the last twelve years and never had a problem with pressure washers .I do feel they are unnecessary and a hose is good .
Of course, you can always use a pressure washer if you'd prefer, but this writeup was more 'best practices' than anything else. Don't want anyone who is new to this grab their 2600 PSI pw and put it on stream to clean the engine.

Again, a PW can be used, but its not required to get the job done, and this is more for amateur and DIY detailers who may not drag out a washer to do their car.

Plus on an older model vehicle would I be worried about wires and loose items under the hood.
Yes, always a concern with older cars. My cutoff based on experience is the edge of 'computerization' which is about 1995 and earlier. Prior to that OEM was still trying to or still working on getting wire harnesses and PCM's water tight.

I've also never ever had a belt slip or have I ever heard of a belt slip due to a dressing . I'd say that's luck but can't even start to count the amount of engines I've done . From lambos to beaters and never a problem. So that statement surprises me .
The slip comes most commonly from silicone based sprays. They stick to belts and dust/dirt sticks to it... this leads to squeals, squeaks, and other issues. If using a spray dressing (or any dressing for that matter) avoid products heavy on silicone.

There was only one time in my life where I've had an issue and I was a rookie and forgot to cover a distributer cap .
A good way to go if you're not 100% sure about the 'watertight-ness' of your engine bay is to start cleaning with engine running at idle. As you spray (lightly) if you happen to notice any stumble, skip, or issue - STOP SPRAYING and you have your answer.

Oh and what will fabric softener do to your towels . I sometimes throw one in with my micro fiber towels with no issue .
Long story short - clogs up the fibers.

This does 2 things, makes the towels less absorbent (most noticed on drying towels and waffle weaves) and can transfer a residue on paint and glass when the towels do get saturated. It leads to streaks.

All in all its best to avoid all fabric softers and use a detergent that is dye and perfume free.

If you have issues with static on your towels a mist of detail spray or waterless wash onto them just before starting will discharge it easily. If its really minor even just a mist of water will solve the problem.
 

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No, but honestly with VERY few exceptions all 'modern engine bays' - anything manufactured after about 1990 is going to be water tight from the factory. As always theres exceptions to every rule, but the G8 is one of those cars that falls on the side of 'norm'. /QUOTE]
Can agree with most of this . most modem cars are fine with no worries. The only thing that I still have to advise on is be aware of a distributor cap and yes any other after market items such as car alarm horns . Most new cars after mid to late 90s have there caps covered . Agree with you that there are exceptions and with that said . A few months ago I did a car with the cap exposed. I don't remember the make but it was an 06 or 07.
[QUOTE You can always cover anything you think might be a concern, but I've never had an issue with caps. My rule is generally just to cover open element filters and any AFTERMARKET additions to wiring (lights, stereo, etc) as you can't always be sure those are water tight unless you're intimately familiar with the car and the mods.

The hood liner can get wet without sagging, the bigger issue is to not scrub it.
The reason you haven't had an issue with caps is because you have the car running . I would not recommend to anyone to try and detail there car with it running for safety concerns. Its hard to clean a motor well with belts moving at high speed or the motor getting to hot and risk burning yourself . As for the fire retardant liner,it gets wet and it gets heavy . A newer car such as ours to get damp or kindakinda wet is ok. But if someone tried to soak it,it will sag. On older car models that shows heavy wear and flaking I'd avoid. Do agree with the stereo wires and so on.
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The slip comes most commonly from silicone based sprays. Th stick to belts and dust/dirt sticks to it... this leads to squeals, squeaks, and other issues. If using a spray dressing (or any dressing for that matter) avoid products heavy on silicone. /QUOTE]
Now you may have me on this . The first place I detailed for did not have a body shop on premises and can't remember if there product was silicone free. Its a major detail business and in those five years there ,I never had a problem . The place I'm at now is defenitely silicone free . But even at the used car dealer I worked at also for a good five years and no issues . Its something I've never had been warned of and again no issues. As for the towels. Just never knew it could hinder its effectiveness of removing wax . Will just wash from now on . I learned long ago not to wash other towels with your micro fiber cause it absorbs the chemicals and will be heavier and will smear . So if that can happen I can see the fabric softener doing something too. I still gotta say that my micro fiber towels are great but ehhh,just to be safe I'll stop . Oh and on a note. It's not just the distributor cap itself but the plug wires that lead to the motor block . If there are plugs on the top half of the motor,I think Oldsmobile or Buick used to have the plugs that go into the top of the block .the plug wires are in a spot where water can sit and flood the motor. This can go to your comment"you can always cover anything that maybe a concern " I can agree with that .
 

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I happened to find your you tube video on engine detailing . Right off the bat.your car in the video ,I assume you have kept that motor like that religiously since you bought her . Your right. Keep up with the car as a whole and upkeep is easy or at least easier. You said in your video that you don't have much experience with nasty engine Bays . I've done some beasts lol. Nasty old fords and so on . There's times I've spent a half hour just degreasing a motor. I swear on my life, I've never have had issues after detailing a motor . Except that one time when I was a beginner . There's a difference that I am sure you know between a persons daily driver and there show car . I swore that the first product you where gonna pull out was ths purple power lol. When I saw it second I was like ,ohhhh there it is lol. I've used purple power at my last place,a used lot. Good stuff . I used it as a fifty /fifty mix . Water to dilute it. Is simple green safe for paint . The mist a..k. a. over spray will sit on your paint and dry . If the product is no good for painted surfaces, it will stain . I always rinse the exterior with water just to keep it from happening. To each there own on dressing the motor. I will either set my vac on blower or use an air tool with a towel to even things off and kill that really greasy look. Also the air tool is great for those hard to reach spots and getting debris out of the cowels. Where safety glasses to avoid debris in the eyes . With that motor being just dusty,I'd think that the car wash soap would be fine. For me cause I like to use dressings ,a motor .that clean . I'd spray my dressing on the motor. Let it sit for a minute and blow access off with an air tool.The alternator being covered is another thing that I am not aware of. I've sprayed alternators with water and swear ,promise you that I've never had a problem . Not From a mechanic or customer . That can't be luck. I'm not trying to be an ass. I love to detail cars and like to help others . if I am unsure of something about detailing. I look into it before I'd offer any advise . The dvise I give on this subject comes from a good 14 years of experience . Working at different shops.Doing a dirty motor isn't that bad lol. It takes longer oh and top to bottom . Always remember to do under your hood first and rinse . then the motor compartment . I've seen it so many times where I guy does the engine bay and then do the hood ,having to redo the lower half from all the grease that dripped down. well man ,again not trying to be a ball buster. always been a vette fan. Old man raised me on them .
 
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