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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got an alignment a couple weeks ago, after replacing the suspension last Thanksgiving. The tech said he couldn't get it in spec because of a few things. I said I'd get the parts so he can adjust everything as needed, which I have. But it has been pulling since then, and I wanted to have an idea as to why before I take it back in.

At city speeds, it has a moderate pull to the right. When coming to a stop, I have to give it a bit of additional left steer because the pull gets stronger. If I hold the steering wheel straight at cruising speeds, it stays straight. If I let it go, the steering wheel and the whole car drift right. The faster I go, the less it seems to pull.

Thoughts on why, other than "the alignment isn't right"? It also pulls a little funny/nervously over cracks and seams in the road.
 

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Did the technician provide a printout of the alignment results showing which portion(s) he wasn't able to get within specification?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tires are nearing end of life. I did not get a printout.

He said he had problems getting camber right. Toe adjustment was not a problem
 

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Your going to have to teach your alignment guy how to use the camber bolt at the top of the ft knuckle. With it they will get specs perfect.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
The tech will install the parts. They consist of camber bolts for the front. Neither the stock bolts nor the Monroe PPV struts allow for camber adjustment (they have a round hole instead of a slot) and they didn't have the right camber kits on hand at the time. I also got new rear control arms and camber bolts for those. Neither they nor I could get the originals to budge. They'll cut the bolts out and put the new arms in.
They do know what they are doing with alignments, just didn't have the parts on hand to complete the job at the time. I took our van there and the alignment is perfect.

So back to the question, what would cause it to pull the way it does?
 

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So back to the question, what would cause it to pull the way it does?
Something amiss with the tires, worn suspension component(s), or a bad wheel alignment.
 

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As G8Drew was pointing out, does your mechanic know this is a camber adjuster bolt ?
The little one,not the big pinch bolt
20201015_210310.jpg
 

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^^^ That's the one. Awhile ago, some tophat removed one of the camber bolt while attempting to align the vehicle. Even had the audacity to provide an estimate of $1500 plus to replace both struts, mounts, and etc.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Like I wrote earlier, the struts do not have a slotted hole. Tightening that screw would just dig into the strut body. And, additionally, when input the struts in, I found those screws to be seized and I had to grind some thread off the end to get the holes to line up in the strut and knuckle. No slot in the knuckle either. So I had to get camber bolts.
 

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Understood. The mere mentioning of the camber bolts revived thoughts of an experience over two years ago. Obviously, that's neither here nor there and will have to compare the PPV with the G8 struts. The factory camber bolts screw into the knuckle and allow some adjustment, however have read lowered vehicles typically need to add/use additional adjustment bolts. Either way, best of fortune getting the issues resolved.
 
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You are better to modify the strut and elongate the upper hole than to use the light weight adjustment bolts. I know knock offs on eBay all have only round holes. It’s not much on stock,but it’s there and safer to elongate the holes. Now OP. Was your camber too positive or too negative? If they don’t back the little bolt off the they can’t make any adjustment. When I was lowered on PPV and Tein springs that was more than enough adjustment. These are stock and unmodified holes
182687
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I believe it was too negative.

Even if I did slot the hole, or I didn't understand that small amount of slot was there and sufficient, the adjustment screws weren't going to turn. I soaked them with penetrating fluid. Tried my impact wrench. Tried turning as hard as I could until I thought they were going to break. They weren't budging. Don't have a torch to try heating them. So that's why I resorted to grinding some off the ends. And I'm fine with camber bolts. Never had issues them on other cars, and I assume the single offset Moog bolts I got are quality. I feel like I'm listing off the reasons I was late to practice to my junior high basketball coach. Lol!
 

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The shop just didn’t know enough to loosen the Both of the strut bolts and tighten the 8mm adjustment bolt. That will give you positive camber adjustment. I don’t care it the are Moog, the aftermarket adjustment bolts will slip. They are not strong enough . I even added the adjustment bolt to the wife’s 2010 Camaro. The dealer mechanic thanked me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Again, the adjustment bolts won't move.
 
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It could literally be a half dozen different things causing your problem. I would start off by getting a new set of good tires. Stay away from off brands, Cooper's and General's. Both are known for tire pulls(brand new).

Two bolt struts can be slotted for camber. Forget that stupid little bolt.
 

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It took the offset caster plates that came with the SuperPro radius rods to get my alignment right. Otherwise the car pulled to the right and you could see that the readings were off on the alignment rack. After install and adjustment, the car tracks perfectly now.
 

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I'm going to have to throw this out there. What was said about the bolt to adjust the camber is correct. If the bolt is frozen(locked up from rust) it needs to be freed.
1st) take a look at the upper bushings. These are under the hood on the top there is a round cover that holds struts when lifting the car. When removed you can inspect the top of your bushing. If it's sagged towards the engine. This will allow more camber. If its collapsed it will allow more camber.
2nd) using the strut camber adjustable bolts should work if your adjustable bolts are frozen. After I put them on mine because I was told I needed them. The next guy to do the alignment said they were unnecessary. Go figure right.
But if the said components have failed the bolts won't give much to adjust.

From my personal experience the suspension seems to last about 50k before it needs rebuilt. This is my car and how I drive is not the same as others. Right now my milage is about 107k and the suspension is sloppy. I just inspected the upper strut mounts and they have collapsed toward the motor. These are whitline poly mounts to.
 
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