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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey folks,

I've just been under the hood this morning trying to troubleshoot a P0153 code (bank 2, sensor 1 slow response for those wondering), but this post is for a separate issue.

While I was under there I also took a look into a very loud clicking/ticking noise I've been hearing for a fair while. I whipped out my stethescope and had a poke around, and I've tracked it down to what I'm assuming is a solenoid of some kind at the driver's side rear quadrant of the upper intake manifold. It's quite loud, quite regular in pattern when clicking, and seems to occasionally go silent and then come back a few seconds or a minute later. It has what appears to be a vacuum line attached to one end and an electrical connection on the other.

I don't have a service guide for this car or engine unfortunately so I'm not sure what this is, or if it is supposed to click as loudly as it does. I know solenoids click and can often be heard, but I'm just curious if it's supposed to be as loud as it is. Very noticeable when outside the car with the hood closed and the engine at idle.

A few shots are attached. If anyone has any input, I'd appreciate it.

EDIT: Um...sorry, I don't know why they're all upside down...?
 

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That looks like the EVAP fuel purge valve solenoid location, but *that* solenoid has 2 pipes connected to it along with the electrical connector. That valve is *pulsed cycled* open an closed, whenever the ECM dictates that a vacuum condition is required within the fuel tank. An will do the same thing whenever the ECM dictates that it wants the engine to pull any stored fuel vapors from the fuel tank EVAP canister (with the help of a cycled canister vent valve), to be consumed along with the fuel supplied by the fuel injectors. This action looks to be a continuous thing as long as the engine is running, based on my reading of the service manual. So if you find that (that) particular solenoid actually has 2 pipes going to it, then I'll say that *it is* the purge valve doing it's thing (but doing so with excessive noise I guess). But since nobody else appears to be having that loud of a cycling solenoid, you may need/want to replace it at some time, to eliminate that noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'll have to look at it more closely to see if it has two tubes. I only saw one but I wasn't looking very closely. Probably be under the hood again on the weekend to do the oil. Just did both air filters which were blacker than Darth Vader's underpants.

I'll video the solenoid when I hear it again so you and anyone else can tell me if it's just be or if it's actually unusually loud. Maybe I'm just oversensitive lol.

Thanks GOPHERIT!
 

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That's indeed the evap solenoid and I've read on Commodore forums many of these engine do the same noise. My Commodore does it too, but no real issue associated with it.

Even the dealers would say it's "nothing". I don't really agre but hey, if it runs OK ;-)

If you happen to change it, I'd be curious to know if it solves the issue because, yes, it's a bit annoying.
 

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My car makes a similar sound. Almost a whine. I only hear it when the car is shut down and it does it awhile afterwards. I also thought it was the purge solenoid.

Keep in mind, my vent valve solenoid in the back is inoperable and I have it tuned out for monitor but do not report.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Subjosh82, I get the whine noise too and that has been brought up by others on the forum before. I believe it was said that the electronic throttle body making the whine(but don't quote me on that). I cleaned my throttle a week or two ago and while I had the accelerator wedged at full throttle I heard the same whine; upon release of the accelerator the whine stopped. I have also occasionally heard the throttle actually actuating itself in the seconds after shutting the engine off. Don't ask me why.

I don't think I'll worry much about the clicking based on what you have all said. Sounds like it's doing its job. I was worried at first that it was an injector or something in the valvetrain but now knowing where it's coming from and what the device is, I'm not very worried.

Sure sounds like s*** hough hahahaha


Thanks for the input all!
 

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Mine does it to, have been assured it is nothing just what the engine does. Cranking up the tunes is a great solve for a lot of these phantom sounds.
 

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I have a loud clicking to. Even posted a video on the G8 Facebook page aND everyone said it was the evap solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sounds like it's a pretty common issue then.

Totally off topic, inserted here for the humour value only, I went by my old shop and changed my oil today. While I was visiting I was told about how they now had a high-end OBD2 scanner, much better than what we used to use, so I couldn't help but try it out. I already knew about one recent code for an oxygen sensor that I've been troubleshooting, but imagine my surprise when I found trouble codes in EVERY system this thing could scan...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh, and one more...

Now, I already knew about the O2 sensor and I'm working on that, and this car has had an intermittent ABS issue where the light comes on, but will go away after one or two drives/engine starts, so I guess that explains why those codes are in there. Not sure about the SRS code or codes, that was a surprise. Oh well. Lol. It's going on 140,000km so I guess it's allowed to have its issues.
 

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Sounds like it's a pretty common issue then.

Totally off topic, inserted here for the humour value only, I went by my old shop and changed my oil today. While I was visiting I was told about how they now had a high-end OBD2 scanner, much better than what we used to use, so I couldn't help but try it out. I already knew about one recent code for an oxygen sensor that I've been troubleshooting, but imagine my surprise when I found trouble codes in EVERY system this thing could scan...
Well....if every system in your car is shooting a code its no wonder your car is making weird sounds!!!!!!
My .02, I don't care how high-end the OBD2 scanner is you have to use the GM Tech2 if you want a true scan.
Mines coming up to 160km so we have to see Steven at the Lakeview meet, he has upgraded his stereo with bigger/better amps/speakers. How better to cover up these stupid squeaks and rattles......
 

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That's a heck of a list you got there. It looks like U0073, U2100, an C0550 are all sorta grouped together. Those fault readouts will not clear *until* you can get 50 consecutive successful start/run ignition cycles. They seem to say that most (if not all) the modules (at various times), lost their ability to talk to each other correctly. On the B0081 fault, it said that the passenger presence circuit has (or had) a problem. That one would take 100 successful ignition on cycles to erase that code. Can't find any information, that the P0500 code exists for the G8. But if it were P0050, it would go along with your P0153 code, that's telling you that your bank 2 sensor 1 H02 sensor heater circuit sucks. Making that sensor unable to show any proper voltage cycling info back to the ECM. You may be able to erase all of the codes with a scanner/code reader, but it looks like the P0153 code most likely would return on your second ignition start/run cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
BAS G8 - while I would agree with you if any of the codes were related to the evaporative system, in this case I imagine it is unlikely that the clicking solenoid and the rattling passenger door (and the electronic throttle whine, of course) are related to the surprisingly multiple codes in the system. As for a Tech 2 I'd love to have one myself but alas, more money than I can justify.

Did a bit of research of my own. P0500 is a Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction, although I've had no problems with the instruments. I'm suspecting it could be related to my winter wheels/tires, the wheels being undersized 1" and the tires being a higher profile (can't remember the dimensions); the rolling diameter is close but not quite right. I was warned that there could be about a 1mph (1.6kph) offset in the instrumentation, and although I'm nobody's mechanic I wouldn't be surprised if that threw off the ABS readings as well. The SRS issues, well, I don't know, but it hasn't ever thrown up a visible or audible warning so I'm assuming it's intermittent or didn't hang around for enough cycles. That one is the least of my concerns.

The O2 sensor I was already aware of. Oddly this occurred a few days after I cleaned the MAF sensor (yes, with a proper sensor cleaning spray), I'm keeping an eye on that as well. I plan to switch the bank 1 & 2 upstream sensors side for side to see if the fault code follows the sensor to the other bank.

I've cleared the codes out of all the systems with the same reader already and re-scanned each system several times - none remain. I assume therefore that the erasure was successful. As for the speed sensor, I'm back on the stock wheels with the factory size tires so we'll see if it comes back. I changed the wheels off recently but I can't remember if the ABS code came up before I changed them or after. This is also not the first time that's happened either - I have seen the ABS go into fault about once or twice a year and then go back to seemingly normal after one or two cycles. Knowing now that it has shown multiple codes I may be more inclined to have the system checked, but then of course the faults don't seem to last and I'm also not entirely convinced that they are unrelated to the vehicle speed sensor, which I am not entirely convinced is unrelated to the off-size tires. I can't remember perfectly but I seem to recall the only times the ABS faulted was during winter with the snows on.

We shall see.
 

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When I found snows I did go with the stock size 245/45/18s to match the summers as I was told going down to a 16 or 17 could throw off sensors, though on my wife's Rabbit it has made no difference for 5 years, go figure. I was lucky enough to have access to the Tech2 thru my son to was a GM wrench so I am biased.
For all the technology they have put and continue to put in these cars to make it a more enjoyable driving experience it just seems to make you experience more headaches.
If GOPHERIT is correct, the codes should clear and stop popping up after a number of start cycles. Until then black tape over the engine light.......and loud tuneage.......
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To be honest all the little bugs do make me miss my older cars. I put the ABS to sleep on my old 96 when it started acting up, but all the way up to 300,000km with a head gasket leak at the end I never saw a check engine once in all that time. Go figure.

My first car didn't even know what a computer was, it was a carbureted '86 Chevy Celebrity and the worst lights that ever came on was OIL when it was running out and CHOKE when it stalled. Simpler times.

That said, I do love this car. I just notice it's a rather glitchy SOB. Once while cruising through downtown Oakville along Lakeshore at around 11pm, cruise control locked on about 55kph, the cruise suddenly shut off and the message center ran through about 6 different error messages all at once, telling me that the cruise was off, the stability was off, something else I forget, and then it showed that it was shifting into Park and then back to Drive and then back to Park and then back to Drive and then back to Park and then back to Drive. That was a bit weird.

Like I said, it seems glitchy as all hell, but it has yet to f*** with me to the extent that I can't drive it so we're still cool.

As for my winter tire-buying experience, I was told it would throw off my speedo but not any sensors. Ah well. I had to go to 17's because 18's were quite a bit more and I was embarking on a jobless 4 months while going to Humber College every day of the week, and so I needed snows for safety. Good thing too, that turned out to be a bitch of a winter.
 
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