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I daily my G8 and I have decided that I will get a DOD delete kit with a BTR stage 3 cam eventually. I've watched videos of people driving in the snow and rain with a stall converter and I am wondering why I need to get a stall converter. Is it completely necessary?
 

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Depends on how wild your cam is that it kills low end torque. If it’s the 229/243. That’s not a street cam and BTR says for autos it needs a looser converter. You will be much happier with an intake duration in the 215 to 219 if it’s going to be a daily driver


This is in warm weather, good luck trying to start in freezing weather.
 

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A lopier idle means creeping forward is herky jerky. Also requires a higher idle to be set (from 600 to maybe 850) which means the car will always push much more than it previously did.
 

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Stick to LS3 Stage 1. Should give you about a 100 whp increase with supporting mods and not need a converter.
 

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...I'm wondering if a tuner can make it livable until I can get around to have a stall done
Might be worth a try or at least inquiring. Were you able to get the various issues with the build squared away?
 

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This is what I'm running into. I'm wondering if a tuner can make it livable until I can get around to have a stall done
It's all relative. I've got a stage 2 and I think it's fine. Definitely noticeable but not offensive. It was professionally tuned though.
 

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I have a BTR Stage 2 cam with Duration @ .050, 225/238 BTR says it is factory friendly but my advice is to get a transmission tune done along with the engine tune because my transmission does not like the new cam.
 

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Might be worth a try or at least inquiring. Were you able to get the various issues with the build squared away?
Thanks for asking. Been ignoring it as we were getting our bathroom remodeled. Given where I live and the very limited tuner choices (and experienced one that was recommended that was disappointing), I ended up reaching out to Pat G. I emailed him late at night and he replied before I woke up the next day. I described everything and he said he could me squared away (at least most of it). I ended buying the HP Tuners MPV12 that comes with the VCM editor and VCM scanner. So I have to spend a chunk again but it's a waste of money driving it with a half-assed tune All the tuners have a 30 way wait. That's ridiculous and they don't do any TCM tuning. Pat does. I'm tired of how this car drives and want it done right. Hopefully this solves:
1) The idiot current tune (stumbling, backfire, rich idle, convertor pull at idle (minimize it)
2) Improve the tranny tuning which no one local seems to want to do
3) Future tunes should be much easier/faster to do (rear end ratio, convertor etc...)
4) The VCM scanner. I'm hoping this can perform GM module programming. I "think" it can but not sure. That would greatly help justify all of this. The Tech11, hacked versions, dealer or services are all $125 or so.

I'll also have my superchips tuner for sale. Might not need the OBDLinkMX anymore but might keep it for easy use with iPhone and scanning friend's cars etc.
 

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Pat G is well respected, comes highly recommend and does great quality work. Hopefully, he's able to resolve most of the issues with the build. By the way, were you able to contact as in speak to the "mechanic" supposedly having family issues?
 

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Good advise above. I went with a Cam Motion mild stage 1 LS3 and love it. I still installed a 3200 stall and it woke it up without drivability issues.
What are the specs on your cam ? I pit a Cam Motion cam in. Runs great but I still can't break a 1.99 60 foot. My specs are 218/226 .595 lift 114+3. Was recommended a Yank PAS 3400 tc. Your thoughts ? Thanks
 

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Can't comment on Yank. I love my Coan converter spec'd at 3200. If you want to get out of the hole faster, a torque converter is needed.
 
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