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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was not aware this site existed until recently. I am the original owner of an '08 G8 V6. Its my daily driver and I have had no major issues with the vehicle (replaced O2 sensor and routine maintenance i.e. oil/filter, tires, etc.). Car has about 97,000 miles on it. Had recoil and steering wheel airbag replaced back in '16 at the dealer. They butchered the air bag on the steering wheel and tried to say it was like that. After back and forth with GM, got a new one replaced for free. Needless to say, I have never returned to that dealership. Honestly, have not had a good reason too.

Recently, I was driving in the rain when I went to engage the wipers. Then, for whatever reason they stopped working. Tried intermittent, low speed, and then high speed. They came on but went through the motion slowly. Whenever I try to turn the wipers on, the high beams turn on for about 5 seconds then shut off. Now the wipers do not stroke at all. Not only did the wipers stop working but my headlights, turn signals, headlights, trunk release, locks, and power windows stopped working as well. A/C and stereo still working. Otherwise, car runs fine while driving.

I checked the fuses in the engine compartment and all look fine (no corrosion). Put a circuit tester on each and all read about 12V. Swapped the wiper relays with other similar relays. Checked the 3 or 4 ground wires I can find and did not see anything unusual there. Not certain where to go from here.

Anybody have any insight on this or where to go next, I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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Do washers work ? first check 50 amp fuse underhood fuse box Batt 1 FU5
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In one scenario, I pulled F10, F12, F19, F23, R6 and R11 then turned ignition to on and the drivers side headlight remained on (DRL). However, passenger side headlight (DRL) was out. Reinserted the 4 fuses and 2 relays and both headlights (DRL) were on. Not sure if this helps but found that to be strange
 

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May seem strange (but in fact), the way the DRL circuit is wired, the results you got were correct. There is a dedicated fuse for DRL circuit. When they are commanded to be turned on, that dedicated power source has a straight run to the drivers headlight. The passenger side requires that (that) same power "has" to make a pass thru the F10 an F12 fuse, to reach the passenger side headlight. With those fuses removed, that power is no longer available to that passenger side lamp.

It sounds like you do not have or use a multi meter in your T/S. That's a real bummer. You can verify or eliminate so much of your problem real quick with that device. I'll post some more a little later, but that FU5 fuse (regardless how it "looks" to you) still reads like the most probable cause at this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
May seem strange (but in fact), the way the DRL circuit is wired, the results you got were correct. There is a dedicated fuse for DRL circuit. When they are commanded to be turned on, that dedicated power source has a straight run to the drivers headlight. The passenger side requires that (that) same power "has" to make a pass thru the F10 an F12 fuse, to reach the passenger side headlight. With those fuses removed, that power is no longer available to that passenger side lamp.
Thanks! Did not know this but at least I can rule this out a as the culprit for the potential short I’m having
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It sounds like you do not have or use a multi meter in your T/S. That's a real bummer. You can verify or eliminate so much of your problem real quick with that device. I'll post some more a little later, but that FU5 fuse (regardless how it "looks" to you) still reads like the most probable cause at this time.
I do own a multimeter. I read somewhere else online, not this site, you can check the clear window for a gap. I didn’t see that. I can check for continuity on that fuse in the morning.
 

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The FU5 fuse feeds hot battery bus power to several fuses to power up their circuits. They are located in the fuse panel behind that left kick panel. You could remove any one or more of them. There are more than 3, but selecting say F2 , F3 or F4 and seeing if the 12 volts from FU5 is showing up on one side of the fuse slot. You "must" show/have power on one side of the fuse slot. The results will let you know the status of the FU5 fuse.
 

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At this point you would be better off with an old style 10 ohm bulb test lamp, with a dvom you may see voltage on both sides of fuse even when that fuse is bad, because of the bad side of fuse and its accys will pull a load on that ct and can confuse many, the test lamp just needs to light on both sides of fuse/s, Although with a dvom remove fuse and see if resistance is at 0 across fuse terminals after removed
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@Thawk @GOPHERIT

Did some more investigating tonight on my G8. Pulled fuse FU5 and tested it for continuity via my multimeter and fuse FU5 is good. about 0 ohms measured. Put my circuit tester on each of FU5 terminals inside the fuse box and only read about 11 V on the driver side terminal. No reading on the passenger side terminal. Got about 11V on each terminal of the wiper fuse, 30 amp, on each speed setting. Couldn’t read it while washer pump was engaged. Also, I don’t hear the washer pump when the switch is energized.

At this point, I plan to replace the washer pump, wiper motor, and the wiper Motor module.
 

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Before replacing anything, if you can get a scanner that reads body systems, you can go into wiper system and ck for codes and command all functions on and off, If those other problems are still present you have not eliminated the multifunction swithes in column nor the bcm as the wiper system is quite complex from switches to bcm to wipers, start at the washer pump first 2 wires, the black for good ground and orange will be 12 v when activated when bcm commands washer relay on through pump fuse
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Before replacing anything, if you can get a scanner that reads body systems, you can go into wiper system and ck for codes and command all functions on and off, If those other problems are still present you have not eliminated the multifunction swithes in column nor the bcm as the wiper system is quite complex from switches to bcm to wipers, start at the washer pump first 2 wires, the black for good ground and orange will be 12 v when activated when bcm commands washer relay on through pump fuse
No I don’t own a scan tool. Trying to avoid bringing it to a mechanic cause they’ll want to replace “everything”, LOL!
With the ignition key set in the on position, I don’t hear the pump. My hope is the motor burned out and is shorting the other functions out.
 

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If the pump was shorted or its harness it would have popped the pump fuse. without knowing codes you are on your way to replacing many things !
 

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Beg or borrow a Tech 2 !
 
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