got it out, but it took a really heavy duty prybar style screwdriver. I broke two smaller ones and this one barely budged.

the old one is really crusty and gross. it's making bad noises when I spin it too lol. Got my
92258220
ACDELCO upgrade in the mail scheduled for delivery tomorrow!

 

Good you were able to remove the alternator and a genuine AcDelco replacement is by far the best way to go.

 

yep it took a heavy duty flathead to get her out. to answer my question: yes, that's the spot to pry but need a very thick flathead to get it out

 

You can remove that bracket (its 3 bolts)that the alternator was attached to (what you pried on)....then removed bracket and alternator together... then it's easy.

 

ok so I'm trying to get the new alternator in and it's even harder to get into the bracket than the old one was to get out. is there any trick to getting the new alternator in? seems like there's a flange that's preventing the new one from sliding in on the top edge of the bracket

 

remove that bracket....then work on it outside the car..... I worked (rubber mallet) the bracket back on ...but outside the car... once you got bracket reposition back on....put the alternator and bracket back as one piece.... make your connections and bolt it back up.

 

I seem to remember that problem also when replacing my Alternator for the one (an hopefully) only time. Thinking that little lip was positioned at the ouboard edge of the casting. Can't remember how I attacked that obstruction. Maybe I positioned the Alternator inboard a little above or below the bracket castings bolt holes an pryed up or down to avoid that lip problem. I know it wasn't the comfortable slip fit I was hoping for.

 

Post a picture of the front of the bracket, is there a steel sleeve at the front holes?
If so, they should move with force.
They are to make up tolerance between brackets and alternators.
Goes in a little loose then bolt pushes sleeve up to alternator .
Often have to free up sleeve with lube and vice.
Proper chosen sleeve and socket used to push on it.
They are tight but not so tight they won't move before the bracket bends or breaks.

 

I should have tried this. do a lube then vice grip to break the sleeves free

 

Sleeves

 

check the bracket at the lugs for cracks seen plenty that crack there have been fitting these at $120 aust on Amazon delivered just use your own rear bracket overrun pulley is good upgrade Aussie beau

 

Like I said, those sleeves should move.
With them not seized, rocking the alternator pushes them forward, allowing the alternator to slide out and back in.

 

there's no rocking or pushing with this bracket. it's brute force (pounding extremely hard with a hammer for an hour) to get the alternator in. I'd recommend buying an aftermarket bracket (if that's possible). the stock design is horrible

 

If you do it again,,,,
You put something that just fits over the steel on one side . Large socket works often.
Then something slightly smaller diameter on the other side.
Gently tighten in vice.
The sleeve will push through with no distress to the bracket.
Sometimes a little heat helps.

This type of spacer setup has been in use since the beginning of time and well meaning, unaware have been damaging brackets just as long.
Picture a replacement alt that is, say .065 short.
Drops right in but instead of the sleeve adjusting for length, the bracket bends or cracks

 

yeah that's really good information. I wish I had seen it before I started pounding for hours with a sand hammer. once I'm done with the install I'll create a KB and I think advising lube + vice grip to break the sleeves free would be helpful to future g8 mechanics. I didn't see your post until after I was done pounding the ****er into the bracket. I'd be really curious to see what spraying and vice gripping would have done to those sleeves. These tutorials don't always account for corrosion. Thanks for the responses

 

@machinist8 @95wagon @PONY MAN @GOPHERIT thanks for all your help on this one. @pony I ended up just cleaning off the belt and using the existing one, didn't feel like pulling it out. no squeeky yet

Like I said in the beginning this was an upgrade to 92258220 ACDELCO 170a because I've got two rockford fosgate P3 12"s in a ported box and a 2000.1 class D skar amp.

Before I did the alternator the voltage was 11-12v with every accessory off, including the lights. Now I'm at 15+v when the car is just sitting idling on a low battery and with the system up half way. This shot was taken while I had the bass turned way up knockin.

I was frickin worried for a second though because when I first turned the car on the volts were only 11v for a few seconds I was like NOOOOESSSSS.. but then after a few more seconds it jumped up to 15v+ =] ... appreciate everyone's responses. I'm planning on making a video to help people do this in the future. There's a lot of stuff I learned that would have made this go a lot quicker in the future.

 

I made a video but I wanna type this whole thing up into text format. Going to bed soon

HD 1080p: G8 Alternator Replacement/Removal Tips When Stuck in Bracket
Low Bandwidth MIRROR: G8 Alternator Replacement/Removal Tips When Stuck in Bracket

 

I tried “moving” the sleeve and snapped the bracket. $35 from dealer. When the GXP alternator goes, I’m just getting a new bracket at same time and save some good cussing for something else. I created enough new swear words with the GT.

 

did you spray lube into the brack sleeves first? I sprayed mine down heavily with penetrating lubricant then let it sit for a bit. This was after I took the bracket out. Doing that around all those pulleys would be really risky imo. Much easier to just take the bracket out then spray it down with a lot of penetrating lube. While I was waiting for it to penetrate I also cleaned it up with some paper towels.

It took a rubber hammer (sand) mallet and some elbow grease but I never got the feeling the bracket was going to break

 

That's why you need to use a pusher and a receiver on seized ones.
If this type of sleeve will not move with GENTLE rocking or prying, you need to free up as above in vise or a through bolt and nut with sized receiver and pusher.
If you don't and the replacement alt is any different at all, you are putting a bending force on the bracket when you tighten it all down.

 

A quick update: so I drove this bad boy first time since the alternator swap. and damn, the subs are hitting super hard. also, I can hear the stock radio now because the voltage isn't dipping. it's extremly loud. if you're looking for a good combo using the stock deck I recommend:
1.) a line level converter off the amp
2.) ACDelco 92258220 ACDelco 92258220 ACDelco Alternators | Summit Racing
3.) 2000.1D skar class D monoblock
4.) Rockford fosgate P3 x 2 x 12" in a ported box

knocks as hard as you want it. fine tune the knobs to your liking. the amp basically overheated from too much bass. but the charging system was 94% charged after an hour of bangin

EDIT: this is only for v8 motors. if you have a v6 this probably won't work