As a matter of fact, there is---

 

Hi Gopherit. Please enlighten me as to how.

 

There are 2 things to adjust*if necessary*. First , they tell you to raise the console armrest to full up position. There is a small trim piece held in place by 2 clips ( about 1 1/2 X 5" ) filling the area aft of the cup holders an the leading edge of the storage bin. It says to gently pry upwards with your fingers at the area where the armrest latch action happens. With this trim piece removed, it exposes the parking brake cable adjusting bolt. If you think the brake shoes at each rear wheel require adjustment (excessively worn), then you are supposed to remove the tension in the cables by rotating the bolt several turns, to allow for adjusting the brake shoes as needed. If you think that is required, let me know, an I'll describe what to do in that area. If you fell they are OK, then all you have to do is rotate that cable tension bolt as needed, to get good holding power in the 4 to 6 click range, an reinstall the trim piece.

 

That did it. A few cranks tighter and now its fine. Thanks

 

Excellence---in action !!!

 

Sorry about reviving an old thread (almost 11 years) but I don't see where the trim piece in the console area to remove for cable adjustment is. It looks to me as one solid piece from the rear edge of the cup holder through the latch into the console compartment. Anyone have a picture of the piece to remove as I don't want to damage things?

 

No pic, but for sure the trim panel is about 6" left to right an about 1 1/2" front to back. After raising the arm rest, you pry up the aft edge of that trim panel at the location where the arm rest latches itself. You could look at it a bit, an try to visualize what GM had in mind, for securing it in place. The trim panel should then lift out of the way. Underneath it, is the cable adjusting bolt that allows you to lengthen or shorten cable as desired.

 

Is it the silver colored piece (yellow oval) between the cup holders and the console? Tried getting that off but not having any luck with that. The piece with the green oval is one solid piece that forms the console compartment.

 

It is that small panel with the yellow oval. It says to pry it up at the aft edge to release. I'll re-read the manual, to see if it has a clearer method on releasing it.

 

Ok, I figured it out... just wanted to make sure I didn't break anything. Tightened up the adjustment bolt a couple turns and now it works much better.

Thanks

 

Guys do you think this method will help me out? Here is my issue. I did a complete brembo swap on my g8. The brembo calipers and rotors are from a 2012 camaro ss. While swapping everything over. I realized the emergency brake shoes don't make contact with the inside of the rotors. Help me out guys...
I don't use the e brake much. I still would like it to function. Just in case.

 

In looking through the rockauto catalog it shows a different part number and design for the parking brake shoes for the Camaro SS and the G8 so I'm not sure if you can make your setup work. May need a different backing plate to use the Camaro SS parking brake shoes?

 

Throw the camaro rotors away and use 15 Chev SS rotors.

The whole camaro swap deal died when the SS rear brembos were released

 

Why do you say trash them? And use the SS rotors?

 

Because the SS rotor fits the G8 park brake and does not need a caliper adapter.
Like I said the Camaro rotor was " the thing " from 2009 till 2015 when the SS went rear Brembo making a drop in solution.

 

Would I be able to still keep the calipers from 2012 camaro ss?

 

Apparently yes

New direct fit Brembo rear rotor from 2015 SS

It looks like the new 2015 SS will be coming with rear Brembos. Good news for us - they appear to be a direct fit replacement, no adapter bracket, no custom parking brake shoe, no pad trimming. A true bolt on rotor that will take a Camaro, CTS-V, or the new SS rear caliper.. I wish this had...

www.g8board.com

I used SS calipers as they all came together from one place and other than Brembo letters being red, matched my GXP fronts

 

Ok. So. I installed the rotors from a ss. Everything fit together perfectly. Except... when mounting the calipers. the bolts are to long. For mounting purposes. I had to use 7-8 washers, in order for the bolts to clear the back side of the rotor.
Should I get the caliper mounting bolts for a 2015 SS. Or just buy another set, for a g8? And cut to length.. I honestly don't think the washers are a good idea. But I could just be over thinking 🤔. I'm not sure.

 

The important thing is to have as much shank in the un threaded part as possible.

I can not off hand answer which would be the best fit.

My case I got flanged 12.9 bolts with the longest shank that would not contact the threaded area and machined the excess thread off.

 

Ok. Ill do. But may I ask. Why does it matter about the shank portion?

 

To add, checking the parts listings , the 2015 SS and tge 2009 G8 show the same part number for the rear susp upright.

One would surmise then the 2015 SS bolts would be a safe bet .

Unless , as in post above ,you own a lathe and loctite 😉

 

While the factory plays fast and loose with threaded hardware that has excess thread,
( yes sometimes factored into stretch and yield ) it is usually best practice to have a close fitting shank bareing on the un threaded areas.
Especially when there is side loading involved.
If you look at NAS and AN hardware they are measured by shank not OAL.
When correctly tighened there should be no potential movement but if there is a close fitting shank near the joint keeps the hardware in shear , rather than a bending moment the loose fit does.
Is this critical in this situation ? Likey not but I feel best practice.
If in doubt, obviously the production hardware will be , well, at least sufficient for the task.

All the above just opinion, your mileage may vary

 

Great info. I will search out the correct bolts. I'll be using this info from now on. Seems like this will apply to more then just brake hardware. Thanks again

 

Case in point, here is a stock G8 rear bolt.
They don't seem to give a crap

Calculated ( correct ) amount of stretch plays into the mix .
Shank dia verses root dia comes into play .
That said about the time a manufacturer starts adding locking agents into the mix, the engineering end of things have sort of gone astray.
You never see locktite on the most critical hardware like rod bolts.
Then again , I have never put my rod stretch guage on a caliper bolt.

Again, all the above my opinion.

 

Understood