[GOPHERIT]

The 4 bolts that would be removed are fairly obvious (looking under my car). They are surrounded by the round cushion assemblies (about the size of a large doughnut). Per the service manual, the desired jack point back there is about 1 foot forward of that forward most sub frame bolt location. There you will see a boxed frame section with 3 (in line) lighting holes. Pick out the location of that boxed frame that is parallel to the ground. Use the area (more to the inside of the boxed frame), to avoid the welded on side support section at that location. Using a jack with a substantial size piece of wood (I guess) positioned laterally, support the ring/pinion gear assembly prior to loosening/removing the 4 bolts. I keep thinking I read somewhere (in the manual), that it would be best to have 4 matching bolts that are 2" longer. As each bolt is removed, replace it with the longer bolt. this would allow the sub frame to drop about 2" but stay in alignment (in case it could walk a little) while you do your thing at the fuel tank. Others that have dropped their sub frames, may tell you its a lot easier an less complicated then I have made it sound. If so, terrific. This is the best I can do (having never done this).

 

[Maxsgp]

I got a PO446 code. Wonder if it is the same part with a problem.

 

[06SS]

Nice writeup. Although I dont even have my EVAP connected and dont have any related codes. Odd...

How did you unhook your evap?
I’m having an issue where it won’t let me fuel up the car at the pump.

 

[GTO3DEUCES]

✅ Re: I have the same issue at times

✅ Re: I have the same issue at times...

Hiya,

I gave the same issue where ‘at times’, I have to wait for the back-pressure to bleed off before the tank will accept gas...

A) I still think it has to do with the gas cap

B) I haven’t seen many posts about replacing the pressure sensor above the gas tank ?

Best Regards,
Dave • GTO3DEUCES

David Larkins
Email: gto3deuces@gmail.com
Call/Text: (610) 842-7905

 

[Sack23]

Just replaced my evap this weekend, followed the steps listed here and all went smooth. (make sure you get the long needle nose pliers!!!!)
Thanks for post again.
Sac

 

[Darth]

I've been putting mine off for 3 years! I just keep clearing the code.

Did you do it without dropping the rear?

 

[Sack23]

I loosen the two cradle bots on the passenger side a bit. Because my needle pliers were not long enough. I really believe that if you get the long needle pliers (with two joints~20$) rear does not need to come down.

I also put my off for 3 year, but if was not that bad to get it done.

Hope this helps
sac

 

[J Wikoff]

I wouldn't be able to get my hand in there to put the new one in without dropping the cradle some.

 

[Imltdan]

I’m really confused what I’m seeing that I believe is the evap canaster / solenoid is located directly above the rear center section of the the diff Unless that’s not it and it’s a square apx 4” x 7” Maybe I’m missing something Here is a picture Can someone verify if this is it ?? It looks nothing like any of the pics in this thread
Thanks in advance

 

[J Wikoff]

Not sure what that is. The evap solenoid is over on the passenger side.

 

[Imltdan]

Maybe it’s the canister for the evap solenoid? I can see the hoses coming from this that goes under the tank and can barely feel a plug towards the tank But can see or feel any solenoid It must be far under the tank I think I’m going to try any pull mine out before I order a replacement. I have had this evap code for a year or so But now I’m getting a low volt code on my map and a low volt on the AC pressure switch I’m wondering if by chance this evap has grounded out and causing these other fault codes
Does anyone have any knowledge if the evap system can be tuned out or turned off thru hp tuners??

 

[Imltdan]

Ok need to clear this up please I’m just not seeing the purge solenoid at rr with the tire off I have looked up the 2 very different part numbers listed in this post and I do have what looks like this purge valve on the front top right of my engine (6.0l)
Can someone that knows these cars (2009 G8 GT 6.0L tell me if there are more than 1 evap solenoid? Also is this the evap solenoid on my car? It’s located right above the map sensor

 

[J Wikoff]

Your picture is one solenoid. The one that usually causes the problem is inboard of the right rear tire. It's kinda hard to lay eyes on, let alone your hands. Most have to lower the rear cradle a bit to get enough room.

And, yeah, the squarish one I think is the charcoal canister thing.

 

[GOPHERIT]

The solenoid valve pictured in post #191 on the engine, is the EVAP *purge valve* The EVAP *vent valve* solenoid is flex piped to the EVAP fuel vapor canister (just aft of the fuel tank). I seem to remember only hearing about 1 canister ever being fouled up so bad, that it required replacement. All others had faulty vent valve solenoids causing the problem. The 2 solenoids are different. So if the *vent valve* is what you think needs replacing, first get the correct P/N valve for your car. Its tough enough even when you have the correct part, but a killer if you find out at the wrong time, you have the wrong part in your hands.

 

[rockinlespaul]

Old thread, I know, but I had to chime in after reading this.

The evap purge valve solenoid is under the hood. The evap vent valve solenoid is in the back and part of the vapor canister assembly.

Think of the purge as the front door and vent as the back door. I got the two mixed up all the time but that helped me understand and remember easier.

 

[Therrien]

Did the job Follow the procedure with out bringing down the cradle order 214-2147 and for the back hose I pushed it out over the others side and went over the diff was way easier installed the hose back before push it back code is gone.

 

[6.0newz]

Okay, after recently buying my car my CEL came on(P0449), sadly it turned out to be the Evap vent solenoid. Turns out that tons of other GM vehicles have this problem. I took the car to the dealer and was slammed with an estimate of $1000 to replace the vent solenoid. (I ended up taking the car back and paying the diagnostic fee ) After looking on the forums I found that some other members had this issue and could be resolved without dropping the tank.

The part cost $15.00 shipped on Amazon. P/N:214-2147 (this part number worked for my 08 GT) 2009 G8's might have a different part number.
Links to various sites

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php?glsId=aces

[ame]Amazon.com: ACDelco 214-2147 OE Service Vapor Canister Purge Valve : Automotive
The time needed : 1-2 hrs ( took me 35 minutes)


Tools needed:
lug wrench
Jack and Jack stand
long Needle noise pliers
Flat head screw driver

Doing it this way requires you to work by feel since its in a weird spot. The pictures I took should give you a visual of what you are looking at.

step 1: Jack car up and take rear passenger side wheel off.
step 2: Locate the 2 hoses from the gas tank filler neck and disconnect
them. ( The plastic hose will have has two tabs that need to be squeezed in and pulled to take it out(see pictures)
step 3: Locate solenoid and disconnect electrical wire by lifting the tab and pulling down
step 4: Hold solenoid firmly and pull towards yourself to slide it off the bracket.
step 5: Using the long needle noise squeeze the hose clamp off the vent hose and pull off the solenoid. At this point the solenoid should be freed
Step 6: maneuver the solenoid out of the car (should come out where you took the filler neck hoses off)
Step 7: Reinstall in reverse order( I used a hose clamp on the vent hose for easier installation) A little bit of oil on the hose will help the install go smother.

Technical chat.
After taking out the defective solenoid I checked the Ohms and it was reading 10.9 ohms, The new one, however, was reading 22.0 ohms.

Also, Your Check engine light might not come off until 3 Cold start cycles (on star says up to one week), I happen to have a Scanner that I can clear codes with.


Hope this helps someone any questions feel free to message me.

*links edited

Just did this job thanks to this thread! One thing i found when replacing was what i used to remove the hose on the solenoid,
used a flexible hose clamp remover (was on Amazon). Holy did this make life easier job still took me few hours as i didn’t drop subframe at all

 

[GXPaycheck]

Well, looks like it's my turn to try this. P0422 is showing, gas cap looks good, no problems filling up, the valve on the engine appears to be working well. I'll need to get her in the air and check for leaks and if none are present this thread is next.