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Torque Specs: Inner and Outer Tie Rods

19K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  BigTony08  
#1 ·
Hi all,

I've looked and can't seem to find them. Anyone know the torques specs for inner and outer tie rods?

I've seen for the outer tie rod 19 ftlbs + 120 degrees and also 37lbs straight. Not sure which one to use.

Anyone?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I can see the confusion in the service manual. On the Fastener Tightening Specification Sheet, they show the Tie Rod end to Steering Knuckle Retaining nut as 18 ft lbs on the first pass, plus 120 deg on second pass. An the Tie Rod End Retaining Lock Nut to 37 ft lbs. Further back in the manual (as part of the steering gear R&R), The steering knuckle end is shown as a one time torque of 52 ft lbs., and tie rod lock nut is 37 ft lbs << At least that one is a match. If the nut looks big enough (at the knuckle), I know I would go for the one time 52 ft lb version.
Thanks GOPHERIT! I appreciate it. What about the inner tie rod? I know I got use threadlocking compound, but how tight should I tighten it?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Is it one of those long tubes with little crows foot type wrenches you put in the tube? I want one of those.
Yup....I got from from Harbor Freight for $40 minus 20% coupon (search for it on internet). The tube is long and it does have the correct piece to fit over the G8 tie rod. Forget about renting it from Autozone...they have the tool but it will not work with our inner tie rods.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
So I finally did the tie rods (inner and outer)....few things to note:

1) The tie rod removal tool is not needed. One can access the inner tie rod easily by just turning the steering wheel hard left or right (after removing the protective boot), depending on which side is being worked on. Make sure to have a plumber's wretch or some sort as standard mechanic wretches may not be big enough.

2) I can see why there is no torque specs for the inner tight rod. It was not hard to loosen/tighten the inner tie rod by hand with the law-jaw pliers (or plumber's wretch...just a tool within that description will work). There was no clamping force involved, just thread the new inner rod into place. Think of it as putting a soda cap back onto a bottle....it can only be tighten so much. Just make sure thread-locker is applied to the threads on the new inner tie rod

3) The hardest part of the job was the lock nut. It was difficult to loosen due to the rust. Lots of penetrating oil and patience got it loose.

4) After 70k + NYC driving....my inner and outer tie rods were so loose.....they were loose like a......................