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BMR Sway Bar Install

11K views 28 replies 20 participants last post by  jstclair  
#1 ·
Among the other things (brakes and LCA's) I ordred a set of BMR sways that should be here later this week.

I have read that the front bar can be a PITA...

Does anyone have any tips?

Kyle at BMR suggested lifting the motor by a few inches to produce some extra room, can anyone tell me the max amount of lift that is safe without stressing coolant, fuel, electrical, or exhaust?

Any other tips?

I'll have the whole front end disassembled to do the LCAs and brakes, so if that produces extra room of flex that can be helpful let me know how.

Any gotchas on the rear install? seems pretty straight forward.

Thanks for any advice.

09' GT about to be more mod'd :)
 
#2 ·
I installed my bar without lifting the motor about a month ago.... We just disconnected the steering arm from the spindle on the drivers side and then installed the bar from the passenger side towards the driver side... When installing it we spun the bar clockwise (if I remember correctly but could be the other way) and then it kind of popped in.
 
#3 ·
How far in the air was your car when you did it this way. Was it on jackstands or would it need to be on a lift to do it this way.
 
#5 ·
I did mine on jack stands with the motor in place. It was kind of frustrating for a few minutes, but it becomes quite obvious how it needs to go in after twisting it around a little bit.
 
#6 ·
THAT'S WHAT HE SAID!! Lol
 
#8 ·
Even Kyle at Bmr suggests the green grease. It's super sticky stuff, that's not going to come off any time soon.
 
#9 ·
DEFINITELY use the green grease. I was getting all kind of squeaking and creaking noises from my front sway bar. I used the Mobil 1 grease and another synthetic grease and the noises would come back after a few months. With the green grease I only had to grease the bushings probably once a year, if that.


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#12 ·
Thanks all for the suggestions, I'll pick up some green grease for the final install. We'll see how it goes. I looked at it fairly closely today and think I see where the issues are. I'll post back with some pics when its all done, install should happen tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks again everyone.
 
#13 ·
I used copper antisieze that I had laying around. on a previous car that I put a sway in with poly bushes. (GTO)

worked great and I never had to re-grease, except the rears - when they broke.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I used copper antisieze that I had laying around. on a previous car that I put a sway in with poly bushes. (GTO)

worked great and I never had to re-grease, except the rears - when they broke.
I imagine the sway bar broke because it corroded around the chassis mount(s)? Copper and steel together leads to galvanic corrosion of the steel when not insulated from one-another.
 
#14 ·
Hey there,

I was a skeptic about jacking the engine but after wrestling with removing the sway bar for 2 hours... I was advised just to do it. Jacked it up a few inches and bang...sway bar came right out and new one went right in. Also You should put some locktite on the sway bar bracket bolts. They tend to come loose over time.

Green Grease a definite do.

Good luck.
 
#15 ·
Hey there,

I was a skeptic about jacking the engine but after wrestling with removing the sway bar for 2 hours... I was advised just to do it. Jacked it up a few inches and bang...sway bar came right out and new one went right in. Also You should put some locktite on the sway bar bracket bolts. They tend to come loose over time.

Green Grease a definite do.

Good luck.
^Exactly the same thing with me, worked or about 2.5 hours then decided to unbolt and jack up the engine about 2inchs. Only other thing when turning the swaybar, you might have to turn the front wheel from side to side to get the bar to turn to the right location. Leason to SEED65, I know from experience soak the front bolts with locktite, I had them come lose three times and the back bolts came off once. Even with them pulled down tight they still came loose. ***Don't over tighten the bolts they are just 13mm I think and the studs can break. There was someone on the forum who broke them off and had to pay out big time to get GM to reinstall new studs.

Good luck
 
#18 ·
I have some MOOG sway bars for the front. I am going to be doing the install next week with my new set of LCAs from Pace. I have picked up some Green Grease for the install. I will be able to put my car onto a lift for the project. How do I go about lifting the engine in order to install the sway bar? Is there something I have to unbolt or do I just place a jack under the engine and push it up? Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.
 
#20 ·
There are two nuts that connect to the lower end of the motor mounts, the are bolted from the bottom of the car to a stud from motor mounts. They attach to the front suspension cradle and are just to the outside of both sides of the oil pan. You can't miss them they are pretty obvious. Once you have those removed. Place a block of wood on top of a jack and then lift the engine by the oil pan, I wouldn't lift it more than 3". Make sure the car is balanced on the lift well, there will be a major shift in weight when the weight of the engine is no longer on the car.

HTH
 
#19 ·
You really don't need to lift the motor. But if you decide to, just unbolt the bottom bolts of the motor mounts and lift her up. Make sure to verify the torque specs before bolting it back down.
 
#23 ·
WOW! All I did was disconnect the front control arms, pull and twist like a screw and it came out and reversed the order to install. I guess I got lucky or something.

I just use some synthetic grease on the bushings every spring and fall and have never heard a peep from them.
 
#24 ·
Great Mod! On step 4 of the front sway bar instructions, after disconnecting tie rod from spindle, I would add: "Turn steering wheel all the way to the right." Sway bar slipped right in without jacking the engine.
 
#25 ·
I remove my swaybar every time I go to the track. I just slap it on the hoist, remove drivers outer tie rod and un bolt the motor mounts and raised the engine about 3 inches. Just enough to hear the varraram flex. Lol. But 20 min. On a hoist. Done and done. Your a bad man getting it done without raising the motor
 
#26 ·
I'm also in the didn't raise the motor club. Had the car on a lift with both wheels off and just patiently worked the new bar in with a buddy. I think the rear sway bar itself was very easy, but my memory is clouded now. On the rear, I also put in new frame bushing inserts at the same time as the rear sway bar and it required some significant leveraging to get everything lined back up so the bolts would go back in. I can't imagine that it would have been possible on jack stands. Was damn glad to be on a lift and have a buddy helping.
 
#27 ·
I didn't lift motor. Unbolted ps line on passenger side and drivers tie rod. Have another issue now. On hard left turns I can feel right tire tucking. Jacked up and nothing feels loose. Guessing toe and radius arm wearing out. Any other thoughts? I drove it up same road yesterday after posi and rear bar install and it didn't do it.
 
#28 ·