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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Have all the parts to build a Diff Spreader. Pics to follow
 

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Hey tweaker,
I havent done a lot of diff work before and may be a dumb question but I see the gm disc kits are readily available but was wondering if they were stock pieces or upgraded gm performance or does adding the extra kits make it better?
They are stock replacement as far as I can tell.
 

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I just bought a 3.45 diff last month from some guy in California. He shipped the thing in a normal cardboard box...I was livid lol. There were a couple nics on it but it looked to be in great shape. Apparently it only had 4k miles on it and was "like new". Well after taking the car up to 85, it made a strange drone/hum/whirr noise. The guy never answered any of the paypal questions when I opened the claim, so now I have a broken diff and a full refund and I need to rebuild it.
This OP kit looks interesting and I looked at the rebuild kit on JEG's but it's $200 just for that?!! How are you guys going about getting them rebuilt? Should I just buy bearings instead of an entire kit (since I don't need shims, staying 3.45's), DO I need a new gear set? Is there a one stop shop to get all my supplies from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The Jegs kit, Richmond Gear 83-1077-1 ($212.99) is a bearing and gasket kit for installing the diff in the case. The kit I listed is for the internal posi part of the differential. In your case since it is making bad noises, I would remove it first to see what is wrong before ordering parts. It could cost more to fix than buy another. I got mine from a salvage yard. They remove them, check them so they are good. Drain them and cap them ready for delivery. Buying one that a guy just so happened to remove it with no problems. I would have my doubts.
If the gears are ok and just the diff is damaged internally. brand new posi centre sections are available for $450. From Just Differentials.
 
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Camaro Diff with Posi Mod & building Dff Spreader. pics added

I have decided to do the posi upgrade with the kit from Camaro Central.
Kit includes cross hatched carbon clutched with more friction material than the stock clutches. They also include pre-load spaces that the Jannetty kit does not. UPS just did the big tease, they brought the package but couldn't find the paper work so the left with it! :cursin: So I guess I can't start the photos until it is delivered. More to follow
Camaro Diff with Posi Mod & building Dff Spreader. pics added

I have decided to do the posi upgrade with the kit from Camaro Central.
Kit includes cross hatched carbon clutched with more friction material than the stock clutches. They also include pre-load spaces that the Jannetty kit does not. UPS just did the big tease, they brought the package but couldn't find the paper work so the left with it! :cursin: So I guess I can't start the photos until it is delivered. More to follow
 

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Camaro Diff with Posi Mod & building Dff Spreader. pics added

I have decided to do the posi upgrade with the kit from Camaro Central.
Kit includes cross hatched carbon clutched with more friction material than the stock clutches. They also include pre-load spaces that the Jannetty kit does not. UPS just did the big tease, they brought the package but couldn't find the paper work so the left with it! :cursin: So I guess I can't start the photos until it is delivered. More to follow
Hello Drew,
Do you still have any information on that Camaro central Clu-595?? I need the installation instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·

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The kit is discontinued but the info to install is still there
Long story, the guy that i bought my 2010 got a shop to put the kit in, but it’s basically always locked up. I brought it back to the original shop to remove some shims, but he says that there were additional instructions included in the kit. Not sure what to do? Any advice??
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Don’t use any shims. Make sure they removed ALL the bumps from the pinion and axle gears. As for preload, the gap between the the case halves to a minimum. .0625“or less for street driven vehicles.

  • 2010 - 2014 Camaro Posi Clutch Kit Installation Instructions
  • NOTE: It is imperative this kit be installed by a qualified technician and that all clearances and preload are followed exactly. If not followed as described, premature clutch wear and damage to internal case components could occur. The manufacturer is not responsible for improper installation or misuse of this product and will not be held liable.
  • NOTE: These instructions cover the recommended installation of the parts contained in this kit. It is not intended as a guide in rebuilding the differential assembly. For additional information on the differential assembly, it is strongly recommended that the customer consult the manufacturer’s factory service manual.
  • Inventory - This kit contains the following parts:
  • 14 Clutch Discs (8 tabbed and 6 splined)
  • 12 Selective Shims
  • 1 Preload S-Spring
  • Recommended Tools/Fluids
  • E18 External Torx Socket
  • Feeler Gauges or Dial Caliper
  • Torque Wrench (120 Foot Pound Capable)
  • 75W90 or 80W90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant
  • Red Loctite
  • 1. With the ring gear unbolted and removed from the differential case assembly, remove the 8 - E18 External Torx bolts from the differential case assembly and carefully separate the case halves. Place both halves of the case assembly face up.
  • NOTE: Henceforth, the case half that has the ring gear flange and case bolt holes will be referred to as the upper case half assembly. The other half will be referred to as the lower case half.
  • 2. Remove the cross shaft, pinion gears, and thrust washers from the upper case half assembly and set aside. These parts will be used again.
  • 3. Remove axle side gears, factory clutch discs, shims, and Bellville Springs from their respective case halves. Remove the clutch discs, shims, and Bellville Springs from the side gears. Save the factory shims. Set the factory clutch discs and Bellville Springs to the side. The factory clutch discs and Bellville Springs will not be used in the installation of the Posi Clutch Kit.
  • 4. Inspect the 2 side gears and 2 pinion gears. You will notice casting marks that look like dots.
  • There are 13 “dots” on each side gear and 9 “dots” on each pinion gear. All “dots” have to be ground smooth and flat. This will prevent wear on the S-Spring.
  • 5. Remove the 14 clutch discs provided with the kit and coat them with a thin and even amount of 90 weight gear oil.
  • 6. With both axle side gears face up (splined side up), start with an eared clutch disc and alternate with a splined clutch disc until each side gear has a total of 7 discs installed (4 tabbed and 3 splined). Properly installed, you will start and end with a tabbed disc.
  • 7. Take the factory shims (there should be two; one for each side gear) that were removed and set aside in step 3 and install one on top of each side gear clutch pack.
  • 8. Carefully install each side gear with its compliment of clutch discs and shim(s) in its respective case half, ensuring the ears are properly lined up in the machined slots in the case.
  • 9. Take the cross shaft and slide it through the narrow side of the preload spring provided in the kit. Install both pinion gears and thrust washers on the cross shaft (one on each end). Carefully install the assembly back into the upper half of the case aligning the cross shaft on the dowel pin in the case assembly.
  • 10. Carefully take the lower case assembly and install onto the upper case half ensuring all gears are aligned to mesh together properly when the halves are bolted back together. There should be a visible gap between the two case halves. DO NOT tighten down the case assembly at this point. With feeler gauges or a dial caliper, measure the gap between the two cases. This measurement will set the preload spring tension on the clutch discs when the case halves are bolted back together. This is absolutely critical to the proper function of the spring pack. This measurement should be .125 with a tolerance of plus or minus .0625. If the measurement is not within tolerance, use the selective shims provided in the kit to obtain proper clearance. Add or remove shims as required and repeat steps 6 thru 9 until proper clearance is obtained. When proper clearance has been obtained, the clutch discs will have between 200 lbs. (.0625) and 400 lbs. (.1875) of force with 300 lbs. (.125) being optimal.
  • NOTE: Our testing has shown that 300 lbs. of preload or .125 of clearance offers the best combination of performance and drivability. Individuals who prefer a little more aggressive clutch action can shim the clutches up to but not exceeding the 400 lb. preload range. For those who still desire great traction with a little more comfort, the 200 lb. range may be more desirable.
  • CAUTION: It is absolutely critical that a gap of no more than .1875 exists prior to the case halves being bolted back together to maintain proper preload. Excessive preload can and will cause premature clutch wear and could damage internal case components.
  • 11. Once proper clearance has been obtained, bolt the case halves back together using a liberal amount of red Loctite on the case half bolts. Torque case bolts to the Manufacturer’s specifications.
  • 12. INSTALLATION COMPLETE! You are now ready to install the ring gear on the case and reassemble your differential. Use the Manufacturer’s suggested lubricant as well as one bottle of GM Limited Slip Additive.
  • WARRANTY: The Clutch Discs and related parts are free from defects in material and workmanship. Due to the intended use of these products, user assumes all risk and liability in connection with structural failure and malfunction of these products. The Fifth Generation Clutch Kits are to be installed by an automotive professional. The manufacturer will not be responsible for product malfunction as a result of improper installation.
 

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Two docs in my archive-
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Just clutches
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
You will notice in the JRE tear down there are just 2 carbon clutches and 2 steels on each side of the of the stock posi. JRE makes it 3 and 3. The other, all surfaces are friction and they are 7 in total. Hell, even adding the preload spring to a stock posi would be an improvement.
Too often people try and go way too far. Too big a cam, too loose a converter thinking the ultimate is what they want for the street. The shop “thought“ using shims would make the posi better, but it just locked it up and made unstreetable.
Learned a long time ago that biggest is rarely best for street. The spring is just to add preload.
the ultimate pressure on the clutches is from the angle of axle and side gears. As load is put on the gears the axle gears get pushed out loading the clutches. That keeps the both tire turning the same speed.
In the spring I will be doing this for the second time. First posi stayed the Dead Red, my first GT.
 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Glad to hear it, Steve. It’s one area that there is no room for overkill.
 
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