[lastcall190]

I'll never understand how a place can't even provide a quote. That's a separate discussion but that is a GREAT thread linked by GT Drew, and what a surprise that the photobucket links arent broken!

-J

 

[lastcall190]

While it's not a 1:1 apples to apples comparison, LS1howto has some nice pictures of disassembly of an LS1. Could always be a nice supplement. Used that when I swapped the cam with no prior experience on my f-body. Good luck with the project

-J

 

[lastcall190]

I like to take a cardboard box or large flat piece of cardboard, and make a crude drawing that matches the perspective I'm working on. Then just punch holes where the bolts go, and put them in there. It might take more than a few minutes to do, but certainly helps keep track of things IMO. Good luck and have fun, quite a list of parts you have!

-J

 

[lastcall190]

I'm jealous. I remember the excitement of the first time I cracked open my f-body to swap the cam. Hope to tear into the GXP one day. Have fun and take lots of pics!

-J

 

[lastcall190]

Throw a wheel under the side of the car or put the front on ramps, IMO. I can't recall needing the wheels off for any front engine work but I might just be out of the loop with G8s. Just like a backup plan for the safety factor.

-J

 

[lastcall190]

II just go overboard with safety especially if I'm working on something alone.

Got a pic of the fitting? I can't speak to the G8 but I know on my Chevy 2500 I had to pop a snap ring looking thing off with a screw driver, then the rest of the line just pulled out with some muscle.

Any time I have done fuel work on an LT/LS, I have taken the schraeder valve cap off the fuel rail, pressed the plunger to allow some fuel out, take the fuel cap off, and disconnect it. It's never PERFECT but I've never had a fuel tanker spill in my driveway. Perhaps someone whom is more experienced with these cars can chime in.

-J

 

[lastcall190]

Every OP sensor I've installed, has either had something already on the threads, or I've used teflon tape. I have never used RTV. Others may chime in; I can't comment on the other items, sorry.

-J

 

[lastcall190]

It's not as elegant to navigate as it once was, but 7zap.com might have some more diagrams you could use. I tried to find it quickly but couldn't. If nobody else posts anything by this afternoon I'll take another look.

-J

 

[lastcall190]

Yes it's within the oil pan.

L77 AFM oil pump, delete sump pan relief valve, potential oil pressure?

I'm halfway through a cam swap and DOD delete in my 2012 SS L77. I'm planning on putting the standard oil pump back in and shimming the pumps relief valve, and I've already deleted the relief valve in the oil pan. From what I've read this setup retains good oil pressure and prevents issues down...

forums.justcommodores.com.au

If you search L76 oil pan relief valve on Google there might be better pics.

 

[lastcall190]

Pickup tube on my LS1 had only one bolt. After that was off, the pump literally slid right off the crank. Not sure if the L76 has two or just one on the pickup tube, but with the tube off, slid right off. Good luck.

-J

 

[lastcall190]

Multi Layer Steel, which is what the stock exhaust manifold gaskets are. Great pieces and not expensive.

 

[lastcall190]

No problem, better to ask and confirm that tear it apart again.

I have no experience with what comes with Kooks, but the GM version is absolutely MLS.

 

[lastcall190]

IMO I would use those. Look like MLS/damn near identical to OEM.

 

[lastcall190]

DOD Delete + LS9 Cam - New Caprice - Discussion forums

It's an L77 but IIRC Flex Fuel capability is the only (main) difference.

Maybe that will shed some light.

-J

 

[lastcall190]

This feels like a nice illustrative example. This is from LS1howto.com but the concept remains the same I believe...

 

[lastcall190]

I hope someone chimes in on that post. I merely grabbed it from the New Caprice forum from a post where someone else had torn down their motor to swap basically everything you are. I had never known to do that so when I saw it it was reasonably intriguing to me as well.

 

[lastcall190]

Well done thus far. Don't apologize for the questions, this thread is now a fantastic resource for those whom will come along in the future.

Getting close to the finish line, that's gotta be exciting. Talk about a total change of the car.

 

[lastcall190]

Great work, YT clip worked perfectly.

 

[lastcall190]

The dipstick never looked like it would've sat flush when I've done headers on my PPV and f-body, but when it finally lands in the pan, it just falls right into place. It never seems like it will sit right until it's 100% in. Good luck, it might help to have a second set of eyes under the car, or feeding it from the top while you get on the ground to help provide direction.

Don't break it like I did, and then was greeted with the broken piece coming out of my oil pan on an old car...

-J

 

[lastcall190]

IME the dipstick when it finally goes into place, looks like there is absolutely no way it's going to lie correctly. Then as it goes all the way into the pan it legit just falls into place. It's hard to explain but I had fits when I was putting it on my PPV. All of a sudden when I least expected it, boom, done. Keep at it, it'll get there.

I have never done LTs on a G8, is the stick going through the right primaries on its path down to the pan?

-J