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I have a question to pose for you guys, how do you shift your gears on your manual transmission cars? Can you speed shift a manual GXP or do you have to hit the clutch to shift gears? If you have to hit the clutch you will never be faster than an automatic transmission car simply for the fact you have disengaged the engines power from the rear wheels by engaging the clutch. Automatic transmission cars do not suffer from this problem and always keep the engine engaged to the rear wheels keeping the car under power 100% of the time rather then 99.98% of the time as in a manual transmission car. This is why the gearing is also different, to try to compensate for the fact that the manual transmission cars can not put the engines power to the rear wheels 100% of the time.

Easiest way to see and feel what I'm describing is to hammer it as hard as you can and when you shift into 2nd gear or 3rd gear what does your front end do? If it drops a little even for a split second that is because your engine is no longer powering the car, for that split second its coasting. No power the front end dips, An automatic doesn't have this issue if anything the front end gets yanked upward during the upshifting.

Sorry guys but like for like cars with only the transmission being different the auto car will always win. Well provided its a newer car and not something from the 60's.

This is why a manual transmission car although MUCH more fun to drive will never be faster then an automatic transmission car.
 
Discussion starter · #362 ·
Hope you don't mind me resurrecting this thread. Did you ever get to test this or anyone else for that matter. Seeing some reviews on the SS it seems some say stick some say auto. All seem to agree the one faster is faster by 1/10th of a second lol
I don't mind you resurrecting this, in fact I should have updated this info years ago. I do not have the stats here with me by I had a chance a few years ago to do as scientific an experiment as possible between a stock G8 GXP Manual and a stock G8 GXP Automatic. It was done with my buddy Wayne Kennedy from St Catherine's ON, Can at the Ames Performance Tri-Power Pontiac Nationals in Norwalk, OH a few years ago (2011 IIRC). Wayne is a VERY capable racer who drives a 10 second 1970 GTO Judge racecar (he also has a real 1970 GTO Judge and his 2009 G8 GXP automatic), and he's been down the 1/4 mile PLENTY! He's been around a few years more than me, so he might even have my 3,000 or so 1/4 mile passes beat. Neither of us needs the "driver mod," and we were both seasoned with our cars when we raced. Here is how the race went down:

We cut identical reaction times down to the thousandth of a second (can't be much more equal than that). The automatic GXP jumped out to an early lead, despite the identical R/Ts. I am convinced that this is due to a favorable 1st gear in the automatic transmission. I nailed all of my shifts as we went down the track, and I was reeling him in slowly. IIRC, he got me by half a fender at the 1320' mark. Based on my higher mph, I would have caught and passed him by 1400'-1450'. We were on the same well-prepped track, with comparable skill, and we both drove to the best of our ability. This proved to me that stock-for-stock, the automatic is a little bit quicker in the 1/4 mile than the manual. Once the cars are no longer stock, then there are too many variables to fairly compare. An automatic GXP will gain more from a performance tune than the manual will, due to much more torque management involved with the automatic. Once you upgrade torque converters it is no longer a comparison either. I have also discovered first hand that the more you modify a manual transmission GXP, the faster you find weak links in the drivetrain. Early on my stock clutch gave up the ghost, and I installed a Katech LS9X clutch kit. I wore it out in 1 season, and now have a Monster LT1 clutch kit that is doing well after 2 full seasons. I also lost my factory differential last August, and have now replaced it with a factory Camaro 1LE differential. I now realize that my axles and driveshaft are likely are likely on borrowed time as well. Manual transmission cars are harder on these parts due to the mechanical connection of the manual transmission to the rest of the drivetrain. The fluid connection of the automatic transmission provides some "cushioning" of this shock. I almost hate to admit it, but if I had plans to build a race GXP to go for the lowest possible ETs, even I would do it with an automatic. As my GXP has gotten faster and faster (I should brake into the 11's by spring), it has gotten alot harder to drive WELL, and the sweet spot has gotten VERY small. Too much rpm and I light up the tires, too little and I bog the motor. The rpm difference between the two might be as little as 200 rpm at most, and that is REALLY tough to properly hold while "foot braking."
 
Discussion starter · #363 ·
Hi all. I've been a lurker on this thread for a bit and find it interesting and am an admirer of some of the folks on here and their driving skills. My M6 GXP has quite a bit of modding and I have made some runs that are in the low 12s i.e. 12.13-- 12.16--. My issues seem to be primarily driver related. I just got started racing two years ago and am still learning and having a lot of fun along the way. My best 60' times have been 1.8-- but more typically I'm at 1.9 - 2.1. My track Bandimere in CO being at 5,800' and so far every time I've gone it has been 80+ degrees hasn't helped either. Last year I learned about heat soak and dealing with that correctly has helped a lot. I will be in the 11s this season with continued driver improvement and some modest weight reduction I've completed (car not driver unfortunately). I also plan to get to a track that is closer to sea level and that has some better air this season just to see what difference that makes.
Better altitude will make a world of difference for you. I have heard horror stories about the Density Altitude levels for racers at Bandimere! You have my sympathies. Someday you should come down to lower altitudes and experience what your car is really capable of. It will blow your mind!
 
Discussion starter · #364 ·
I have a question to pose for you guys, how do you shift your gears on your manual transmission cars? Can you speed shift a manual GXP or do you have to hit the clutch to shift gears? If you have to hit the clutch you will never be faster than an automatic transmission car simply for the fact you have disengaged the engines power from the rear wheels by engaging the clutch. Automatic transmission cars do not suffer from this problem and always keep the engine engaged to the rear wheels keeping the car under power 100% of the time rather then 99.98% of the time as in a manual transmission car. This is why the gearing is also different, to try to compensate for the fact that the manual transmission cars can not put the engines power to the rear wheels 100% of the time.

Easiest way to see and feel what I'm describing is to hammer it as hard as you can and when you shift into 2nd gear or 3rd gear what does your front end do? If it drops a little even for a split second that is because your engine is no longer powering the car, for that split second its coasting. No power the front end dips, An automatic doesn't have this issue if anything the front end gets yanked upward during the upshifting.

Sorry guys but like for like cars with only the transmission being different the auto car will always win. Well provided its a newer car and not something from the 60's.

This is why a manual transmission car although MUCH more fun to drive will never be faster then an automatic transmission car.
With a modern fully synchronized transmission, I think you would quickly destroy the synchros if you try to "power shift" these cars (i.e. not lift off the gas, and depress the clutch pedal for every shift). For those racing a manual, practice is the best way to shift faster. I am proud to know a number of folks who can work a manual ALMOST as fast an automatic (most days, I think I can hold my own with these great drivers). With the current technology of a computer controlled automatic, we human beings with a manual transmission are just at a disadvantage that we can't overcome. Despite that, I won't give up banging my own gears, it's way more fun (even if it's a little slower)!
 
Hey Bracket

Wayne and I did a similar test however i've made a total of 5 passes down the 1/4 mile. I did however get Wayne 2 out of 3. One he red lit and was chirped pretty hard by the tower. However I can concur with your results.

Wayne was Pirelli P zero's at the time, I had RSA all seasons. He also had a CAI vs my stock intake.

Results:

With the exception of 1 race, he pulled off the line (traction and gearing) and I slowly started closing the gap. With the exception of the one race he was sleeping at the line (didn't want to red light again).

Wayne is a legend when it comes to the 1/4 mile and I'm happy to stay within 1-2tenths of his times!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmM0yluuvgM "Wayne goes red.. thats an embarassement" lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62FcVDW8pCE "that can't be wayne in that car" LOL

two of the races that night: our bests of the night were in the 13.40's each that night
 
I have also discovered first hand that the more you modify a manual transmission GXP, the faster you find weak links in the drivetrain. Early on my stock clutch gave up the ghost, and I installed a Katech LS9X clutch kit. I wore it out in 1 season, and now have a Monster LT1 clutch kit that is doing well after 2 full seasons. I also lost my factory differential last August, and have now replaced it with a factory Camaro 1LE differential. I now realize that my axles and driveshaft are likely are likely on borrowed time as well. Manual transmission cars are harder on these parts due to the mechanical connection of the manual transmission to the rest of the drivetrain. The fluid connection of the automatic transmission provides some "cushioning" of this shock. I almost hate to admit it, but if I had plans to build a race GXP to go for the lowest possible ETs, even I would do it with an automatic. As my GXP has gotten faster and faster (I should brake into the 11's by spring), it has gotten alot harder to drive WELL, and the sweet spot has gotten VERY small. Too much rpm and I light up the tires, too little and I bog the motor. The rpm difference between the two might be as little as 200 rpm at most, and that is REALLY tough to properly hold while "foot braking."
Joe, I agree 1000% and that is why I upgraded almost my entire drivetrain when I added the TT kit so it could reliably handle the power. Most just go ahead with the power adder and call it a day not realizing exactly what they are in for.

With a modern fully synchronized transmission, I think you would quickly destroy the synchros if you try to "power shift" these cars (i.e. not lift off the gas, and depress the clutch pedal for every shift). For those racing a manual, practice is the best way to shift faster. I am proud to know a number of folks who can work a manual ALMOST as fast an automatic (most days, I think I can hold my own with these great drivers). With the current technology of a computer controlled automatic, we human beings with a manual transmission are just at a disadvantage that we can't overcome. Despite that, I won't give up banging my own gears, it's way more fun (even if it's a little slower)!
Again, spot on Joe. I could not agree more. I was fully confident in my abilities to "speed shift" through the gears with very quick coordinated movements with the clutch, short throw shifter, and gas. No "power shifting"! LOL
 
I always thought manuals were more efficient then automatics ie wasted less horsepower, but then I'm pretty old school. I have always loved sticks since 1970.
LJ
 
Who said M6s are slower?
 
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