I just need to clarify this Torque to Yield issue with the brake calipers. To replace the pads, and not remove the disc, just loosen the top caliper bolt, and remove the lower bolt. You then swing the caliper up and remove the old pads, push the piston in a bit and fit the new thicker pads to the caliper, then swing the caliper back down and fit the lower bolt. There is a big difference between talking about the smaller caliper slide bolts and the caliper to knuckle bolts. GM say to replace any bolt that was been loctited, however the small caliper bolts can be cleaned up and reused with a new drop of blue loctite without dramas. But the larger caliper to knuckle bolts MUST never be reused as they are torque to yield.
TTY bolts are fastened to a higher torque than non TTY bolts. All bolts stretch when torqued. Bolts have their limits though and have an elastic range for "normal" bolts. TTY bolts are tightened to a higher value such that the bolts are either in, or close to, their plastic range and hence do not return to their original length. If then reused, TTY bolts can simply snap when re tightened or worse still, snap when under load on the road.
TTY bolts have a necked down shank, the bit between the head and the threads. Non TTY have the shank the same OD as the threads.
This all means that the brake caliper bracket, the bit that bolts to the knuckle on the front and the rear, should have new bolts when you replace the disc rotors. If only replacing pads, the small bolts holding the sliding caliper to the bracket, can be cleaned with a wire brush, add a drop of loctite, and reuse.
If your garage says to reuse the bolts holding the bracket to the knuckle, go elsewhere as they are ignorant and probably old school guys who don't understand this torque to yield issue. At about $8 per bolt, don't risk it.