Wire wheel it and use blue Loctite.

You'll see that the OEM threadlocker is yellow.

 

WOW... never heard of that. I have to change my pads soon. Look forward to see what people post.

 

George
Is it necessary to clean out the receiving bolt hole threads as well?

JD

 

Agree with George.

I try and run a tap into the threads if locktite has been present. Make sure you don't force the tap and mess up the threads.

You could also use a bolt that is the same size and thread pattern, and grind a groove perpendicular through the threads. Make sure the threads on the bolt are not damaged if you use this method. Run it through a die.

 

Torque to yield bolts require replacement once dissasembled. ie head bolts. Clean the thread sealer from the bolt and internally threaded parts. Re apply sealant or anti seize. torque to spec.

 

I have always reused caliper bolts with no issues. However, at an autocross a few years back, a guy with a modded Mustang Cobra (set up for autocrossing) broke a bolt while on the straightaway going about 70mph. He lost control, crashed through two jersey barriers which were flung across a two lane road, the stang ended up on the other side of the road in a heap. Luckily, the guy had the required helmet, a five point harness and airbags. The mustang must have been totaled. And he had no race insurance. Expensive day for that guy!

 

This thread needs a poll

 

Caliper bolts are not TTY bolts. They are meant to be serviced. Clean and re-use

 

^^^+1

 

GM don't know what they're talking about.
They are foolish when they say:

Install the NEW lower brake caliper guide pin bolt (1) and tighten to 42 N·m (31 lb ft).

Idiots and their brake pad replacement procedures.

 

GM don't know what they're talking about.
They are foolish when they say:

Idiots and their brake pad replacement procedures.

So we're supposed to replace the lower bolt?

What happens if we leave that one and replace the upper bolt?

 

Clean and reuse.

 

The part number I've stumbled across for them is 92172963.

 

Can't say for sure. But ask yourself this-
What if a warranty claim is denied for a related brake service because a tech found that a previous repair was done improperly?


I'm just trying to get the reccommended info out there straight from the horse's mouth.

 

Guess I should order 8 caliper bolts, huh?

 

Other than the part number, anybody know the specs of the bolt? The thread size and bolt size you need, if you wanted to stop by a local shop?

 

The bolts that attach the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket don't need to be replaced. The bolts that attach the caliper mounting bracket to the steering knuckle are torque to yield and DO need to be replaced, but those only need to be removed if the rotors are taken off.

 

The bolts that attach the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket don't need to be replaced. The bolts that attach the caliper mounting bracket to the steering knuckle are torque to yield and DO need to be replaced, but those only need to be removed if the rotors are taken off.

The service manual states "Install the NEW front brake caliper anchor plate to front steering knuckle retaining bolts and tighten to 60 Nm + 128deg"

Is 92172963 the part number for the bolts they are referring to?

Thanks...Scott

 

pretty sure any bolt that has a torque plus deg. is a tty bolt. if i need to do service to a part that has a tty bolt, i just try to find a grade 8 bolt / 10.8 bolt of the same size, and torque it to about double what they ask, before the deg. kinda like the brembo calipers i put on, i put some locktite and torqued them to around 125lb.

from the research i have done on tty bolts. the reason why they are not resued, or only can be tigthend a fixed number of times before it breaks. a tty bolt works kinda like a lock washer in an easy way to explain. a tty bolt changes shape when its tightened. the bolt stretches, then re-hardens at its new stretch. so to say. a regular bolt always wants to return to its original size, due to elasticity. thus a regular bolt is more likely to vibrate loose, because once a regular bolt becomes any tiny amount loose, due to vibraiton or anything else, it will ultimatly be almost finger tight after its first broken free. as with a tty bolt will act more as self locking bolt due to it stretching and reforming.

if you plan to reuse bolt, just buy high quality regular grade 8 bolt and use thread lock and tighten them to spec, and that will work.

 

Hey, y'all... resurrecting an old one. I've got a photo for clarification. Ignore all the white and yellow lines and arrows.

The BLUE-circled bolt does NOT need to be replaced. The RED circled bolt DOES need to be replaced? Am I correct here? If it is the case that we're supposed to replace the caliper mounting bolts, why is it so hard to find them? I can only find them in a pack of 5 for $40.